U.M. and other Knowledgeable Stangers

[shhak]

Ok, you guys have given me several answers to all of the questions I have had since buying my 03 cobra. Here's my next one:

First, let me start by telling you as much as I can about the car. From what I was told (from the dealership) the car has a 2.93 upper pulley (I can verify this) an off road x-pipe and I believe magnaflow mufflers, though haven't crawled underneath to check. Also has a k&n filter (attatched to stock piping, but no shrouding or air box around it, no longer in the fenderwell either) and it was tuned by Dyno Tune Motorsports. Have dyno sheets showing 464rwhp.

The car runs perfect and very strong. Wheelhops like they all do, and cruises down the interstate at 85mph at just 2500 rpm or so.

Now for the questions...
Judging by the rpm at 85mph, do you think the gears are stock? The air filter seems to whistle alot, what's this??? I have an idler sqeaking, (oiled them individually and found the bad one) should I spend the money and buy the Billetflow kit or just pick up a stock replacement?
Also, I plan to buy an MGW shifter, a JLT rai, and have stiegemeirs stage IV port job on the complete blower assembly. I believe it was U.M who suggested I swap the stock lower for a 2lb pulley, so I'm gonna do that as well.

After this, what's next? I can put somewhere in the area of $3500 into the car. I drive the car quite often, but it's not a daily driver. I don't want to go the nitrous route, but am open to any other suggestions. I want the most hp possible without turning it into a car that has to have the motor rebuilt every 5,000 miles.

So, if you were me, WHAT WOULD YOU DO??? Thanks for the help.

 

[Uncle Meat]

Now for the questions...
Judging by the rpm at 85mph, do you think the gears are stock?

That seems about right. Are you still on the stock Goodyear F1's (275/40/17's)?

The air filter seems to whistle alot, what's this???

You're hearing the "whine" of the supercharger rotors as they mesh with each other. This is normal. It's naturally louder with an open element air filter and even louder still when running a smaller pulley.

I have an idler sqeaking, (oiled them individually and found the bad one) should I spend the money and buy the Billetflow kit or just pick up a stock replacement?

Unless you are concerned with how the engine bay looks I'd stick with all stock idlers except the upper one. You need to get a larger aftermarket (100MM) to ensure good belt wrap on the upper pulley.

Also, I plan to buy an MGW shifter, a JLT rai, and have stiegemeirs stage IV port job on the complete blower assembly. I believe it was U.M who suggested I swap the stock lower for a 2lb pulley, so I'm gonna do that as well.

The shifter, RAI, and port job are all great mods. As far as the 2lb lower... you asked what the maximum PSI you could run on the Eaton blower was. I said with a stage IV port that 17PSI was the maximum before you overdrive it to the point of massive heat soak. I also said a good pulley combo with minimal belt slip would be a 2.93 upper and a 2lb lower. To max it out you'd have to go with a 4lb lower and a 2.93 upper. Problem is once you go with a 4lb lower you start spinning the accessories (alternator) too fast and they have a habit of wearing out quickly. You can get a larger alternator pulley to compensate if you wanted. The 2.93/2lb combo will provide approximately 15lbs which is a good compromise I feel. Personally I would just stick with a 2.93 upper and skip the lower for a daily driver Terminator.

After this, what's next? I can put somewhere in the area of $3500 into the car. I drive the car quite often, but it's not a daily driver. I don't want to go the nitrous route, but am open to any other suggestions. I want the most hp possible without turning it into a car that has to have the motor rebuilt every 5,000 miles.

So, if you were me, WHAT WOULD YOU DO??? Thanks for the help.

Well N2O would be you next best bet if you planned to keep the Eaton on the car. The Eaton creates a LOT OF HEAT and even a very small shot (35lb) of N2O will turn the car into a monster torque wise.

U.M.

 

[SVT98Snake]

not much more to say...he summed it up.

One thing to add....after a port, your blower will whistle more outside boost.

 

[shhak]

Ok, thanks for the help. But I still don't think we are talking about the same noise from the air filter. The noise is not when I'm in the boost. It's just when gently accelerating. It's not the blower whine, it's more of a higher pitched whistle. Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to come from the air filter itself.

The car is already 464rwhp. If I port the blower, add the 2lb lower pulley, and the jlt rai, and have it tuned again, what kind of power will I be looking at?

Like I said, I have about $3500 I can spend right now. I'd like to get everything I can right now so I don't have to keep taking it in for another tune. No since in adding a few mods, getting it tuned, adding a few more, getting it tuned and so on and so on.

I was hoping to get in the 500+ rwhp club, but the 600+ club would be even better. I just bought another car, so the cobra will see lots less personal use and now be more of a cruiser and bruiser... I know I will need some cooling mods and I have checked into some of them. What about fuel pumps, injectors, cams, etc... What do these items cost on average? I can install most of them myself. Would you change the rear gears?

Sorry for the mess of questions. But like I said, I have the money to do quite a bit of work right now and I would like to go as far as I can without having to get a new tune every few weeks. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Uncle Meat]

500+ is a dangerous club to be in with the stock fuel system and MAF.

Let me see if I have your current and future mods correct...

Currently you have:

2.93
K&N open element Filter (connected right to the MAF yes?)
O/R X-pipe
Welded in Magnaflows
custom tune

Future mods:
Stage IV port
JLT RAI
2lb lower
custom tune

Is that right? If so you're looking at approximately 480-490 RWHP I would think.

U.M.

 

[slitherin' 03]

shhak,

In talking with Meat and others, once you get to a certain point with hp, there is a slew of things needed and a few other things recommended. Read my post in this forum "03 Cobra bolt on's." Good info in there.

All this adds up dollar wise and can exceed $3,500 quickly. Don't forget, once you get to that magical 500 or 600 hp there are other things to worry about depending on how hard you drive. Clutch, and brakes are the obvious ones. Stock Cobra brakes wil die fast with 600hp. Mine fade fast already under heavy braking and I am stock for the most part.

This is the dilema I am facing right now. I am in the same boat as you. To go all the way or just be satisfied with a smaller blower pulley and a good tune.

FYI:

ported blower
MAFia
injectors
throttle body
cai
fuel pumps
dyno tune

I think would be under $3500

GOOD LUCK!

 

[shhak]

U.M, you are correct about my current and future mods. In your opinion, would I be better off to run with the current set-up, which runs excellent right now, for the next few months and save up the rest of the money and get a KB 2.3 or 2.8? I want the power reguardless of the additional parts that need upgraded. The only question is "how long is it gonna take to save the money"

Should I swap the gears... Speaking of which...
the rear end is leaking oil. I think it's just the diferential cover gasket. I stopped at the local ford deal to get a estimate on fixing it. $459.??? $29 for parts and the remainder is labor. Said the complete assembly has to be pulled to swap the gasket. Is this right? Could the average shade tree mechanic handle this task? I've got the maximum motorsports bushings I was gonna try to install anyway, so i guess this would be the time to do it.

I'm gonna do a little research of my own on some mods and such and see what I come up with. So, I'll try to lay off the questions for your guys for a while. Let me ask you just one more.

What's your personal receipt for a 600hp cobra? still streetable (maybe not DD but streetable?) Thanks again everyone.

 

[Dan_Soprano]

What's your personal receipt for a 600hp cobra? still streetable (maybe not DD but streetable?) Thanks again everyone.

See sig.

 

[shhak]

Dan, am I missing something with your sig? Is there more on your profile? What all are you running? Your hp and tq levels are right where I'd love to be. I have been reading all evening about the KB's and am very interested in possibly exploring that route. What's your opinion on the whole idea? Thanks

 

[slitherin' 03]

Priceless

KB s/c $4000
all the other goodies needed $2000

600 hp

PRICELESS!

 

[Uncle Meat]

U.M, you are correct about my current and future mods. In your opinion, would I be better off to run with the current set-up, which runs excellent right now, for the next few months and save up the rest of the money and get a KB 2.3 or 2.8? I want the power reguardless of the additional parts that need upgraded. The only question is "how long is it gonna take to save the money"

If that's your ultimate goal (a big twin screw) then yes, by all means stop modding your car now and just start saving your money for the ultimate upgrade! All these pulleys and porting will most likely go to waste once you purchase a large twin screw. I guess it all depends on how quickly you want to have a twin screw and how patient you are with living at your current power level.

Should I swap the gears...

Why? In stock trim the 03/04 blows the rear tires off in 1st gear. With your current power level I'm sure 2nd gear is iffy too! Why throw a set of even lower gears in it? Unless you plan on drag racing it and adding some larger circumference tires just stick with the stock 3:55's.

Speaking of which...
the rear end is leaking oil. I think it's just the diferential cover gasket. I stopped at the local ford deal to get a estimate on fixing it. $459.??? $29 for parts and the remainder is labor. Said the complete assembly has to be pulled to swap the gasket. Is this right? Could the average shade tree mechanic handle this task? I've got the maximum motorsports bushings I was gonna try to install anyway, so i guess this would be the time to do it.

Replacing the rear seal on the pumpkin is a pain in the butt, but it can be done by a shade tree mechanic. It's not difficult, just time consuming because the IRS has just a few more parts you have to deal with before the cover on the center section can be removed. Wait until you try to install those bushings!

Those will make the center section look like a piece of cake! I highly suggest once you replace the gasket sealer on the center section cover (there is no "gasket") you also add one of these: http://www.billetflow.com/irs_brace.htm

This will prevent that leak from happening again and will also strengthen your rear differential so this won't happen:

U.M.

 

[shhak]

Yes, U.M. I planned to install the Billetflow IRS brace as well. I plan to tear into the rear end next week some time after christmas. I plan to do all the rear end mods (brace, bushings, sealer, and possibly the IRS brackets as well) all at the same time.

As for the blower, I think I'll go with U.M.'s advise and stay content with my current power level for now and save for the KB or other big twin screw.

Thanks for all the help. I'll keep you updated on the progress.

 

[Dan_Soprano]

Dan, am I missing something with your sig? Is there more on your profile? What all are you running? Your hp and tq levels are right where I'd love to be. I have been reading all evening about the KB's and am very interested in possibly exploring that route. What's your opinion on the whole idea? Thanks

oops, forgot I took the rest of the mods out of the sig. they are as follows:

KB 2.2 @ 17psi
60lb Injectors
SCT BA2400 MAF
K&N FIPK
Catted Prochamber
Magnaflow Catback
Full set of Billetflow Iders to help with belt slip
SCT X2 with custom tune by local tuner.



Thats it for power mods.

 

[Uncle Meat]

Yes, U.M. I planned to install the Billetflow IRS brace as well. I plan to tear into the rear end next week some time after christmas. I plan to do all the rear end mods (brace, bushings, sealer, and possibly the IRS brackets as well) all at the same time.

As for the blower, I think I'll go with U.M.'s advise and stay content with my current power level for now and save for the KB or other big twin screw.

Thanks for all the help. I'll keep you updated on the progress.

I think that's a smart plan. Might as well use that money you WERE going to spend on porting and pullies and just put it towards the twin screw and it's supporting mods.

Good luck on those bushings. I'm assuming these are the poly IRS bushings right? Wait until you have to cut, drill, pound, scream, yell, and curse the stock bushings from their mounts. Don't say I didn't warn ya! You got a lift or do you plan on doing it on your back?

U.M.

 

[slitherin' 03]

+1 on the bushings! I did them myself in my 92 gt. Holy #$#% Whatta pain that was! Like Meat said, screaming, yelling, probably a bloody knuckle or 5. Have a blast. Good idea with the twin screw too. Wait and be patient. Have a great holiday!

OH YEAH,

MEAT....I have decided to send my blower out for porting. Gonna pull it off after xmas. Cant' wait. Question: If I leave the stock pulley on, do I need a tune when I get the blower back?

 

[Uncle Meat]

MEAT....I have decided to send my blower out for porting. Gonna pull it off after xmas. Cant' wait. Question: If I leave the stock pulley on, do I need a tune when I get the blower back?

No. Having the blower ported DOES NOT require a re-tune. The porting only makes the blower more efficient, it doesn't not affect A/F ratio's. Stock pulley or not it won't require a re-tune.

U.M.

 

[shhak]

Thanks U.M, and everyone else for the info.

And yes, U.M. I do intend to install the bushings on my back. No lift or at least right now that's the plan. Any helpful hints or tips? I assume the entire IRS has to be removed to do most of it right?

Well, like I said, thanks to everyone. Hopefully it won't take long to save the rest of the money I need to get "Twin Screwed" Will keep you posted....

 

[Uncle Meat]

You're going to need some type of "tool" to cut the stock bushings out. I've heard some people had a lot of success using a "Rotozip". I believe that MM (Maximum Motorsports) actually sells a tool specific for this job and everyone swears by it. Click here. The stock rubber bushings are really wedged in there and it's all got to come out before you can press in the new ones. You'll need a friend to help and the better part of a WHOLE WEEKEND to do this. Most guys say it takes 12 to 14 hours total. Here are some instructions and tips I got from another website.


STEP 0 - Use ziploc baggies and sharpie marker for every piece, label them as you remove them.

1)Get car up on 4 jackstands with the tires about 8-10" off the ground in the rear and 4-6" in the front. A little angle is important to keep the trans from leaking when you pull out the driveshaft.

2)Remove catback. Soap or spray lube on the hangers ease insertion/removal.

3)Remove Driveshaft use 12pt 12mm socket. Pull it out of the trans.

4)Remove tires 13/16" socket.

5)Remove lower shock bolt. 18mm socket, disconnect bottom only, leave them hanging.

6)Remove ABS sensors from differential and pull/pry the fasteners off the IRS subframe. Get it completely off the IRS. They detach under the rear seats. You can pull up through the floor if you pull the big rubber grommet up. It took us forever to get the rear seat out. The buttons were under carpet so they were extremely hard to depress.

7)Remove Emergency brake cables. There are little c-clips mounting them to the calipers. DO NOT remove the spring, way harder to get it back together. Just push on the little arm holding the cable end till you can work it out. I use vice grips to compress it. Make sure e-brake is off, of course. Also have a helper pull all the slack to the side you are working on.

8)Remove brake calipers, two 15mm bolts. Put jack underneath bottom of spindle, just support it. Mark the position of the eccentric washer where the UCA mounts to the top of the spindle. Remove upper spindle/UCA bolt 18mm. Pull back on top of spindle and slip the brake line out from under the UCA. Remove brake line bracket, 7mm bolt, which mounts to UCA. Replace the upper spindle bolt momentarily.

9)Remove rear IRS subframe bolts, 18mm. Support IRS at the center of the main rear beam, directly rear of the pinion mount bracket (back of the diff). Take both bolts out once it is supported. Use some 4x4's or jackstands to support it a few inches under its normal position (you don't want to lower it to ground till the front is loose.) You just want to lower it enough so the springs will come out.

10)With the rear supported on 4x4's or jackstands, put the jack under the front differential brace. Remove the front IRS subframe bolts. Lower the front down. It may stick, both the ones I have done needed a few smacks with a mallet. Once loose lower to the 4x4's then reposition the jack, lift a bit, remove 4x4's and lower to ground or pull out from under the car on top of the jack.

11)Reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to get it up close again on 4x4's, too much angle and the front bushings will not go in. *CRITICAL that you install the FRONT first because those bolts have to go through fixed holes. The REAR bushing nuts (which are movable) and can be positioned to line up with the hole in the bushing. After the fronts are installed (and still a bit loose) swing up the rear, look through the hole, line up the nut behind it and insert the bolt. Remember to swap out the stock 12mm front IRS bolts for the new 14mm bolts from MM.

Hope this helps.

U.M.

 

[shhak]

Thanks again, U.M. I believe I saw those instructions myself. Just couldn't remember where. Glad you posted them for me. I think thats all I've got for now, but I'm sure I'll have other questions when it comes time to buy that twin screw. Thanks again and Merry Christmas...