Update on my motor runing. Timing Question

stang120gt

Member
Jun 28, 2004
72
0
6
Michigan
Ok i have had this poping noise coming out from my exhaust. Some of you suggested that it might be my timing and it should be at 10*. So i went out and checked it with a timing light. It was way off, so i put it at 10*. Then my idel was way to low. So i ideled it up a bit to 1100 rpm and now the timing is off a little bit about 5*-7*.

My question is what should my idle be at when i put it at 10*
Also what fuel presure should i be at
Also should i advance my timing any, with the stuff i have done to the motor.

Thanks
 
Stock or near stock set up as a guide to get you going:

Timing BTC : 10 Degrees
Idle ~ 700 - 900 RPM
FP ~ 38 39 PSI

Start there and get your motor running good. Then you can adjust your timing and FP later for the most punch with your new combo. Good list of parts that you have there!
 
Now that your motor is running again the first thing I would do is change the oil and filter for good measure.

To get some of your power back you can start bumping up the base timing. I'd guess that ~12 to 14 degrees will really help out.
 
Did anyone explain to you that you MUST remove the SPOUT jumper before checking the timing????????
It can be found on the wiring connectd to the TFI module on the distributor. It is a box-like gray or black plastic connector about 1-1/4" x 7/8" x 1/2" in size. It is set-up like an inline blade fuse to jumper the wire. Remove the jumper to check timing, then replace it.
 
To add to the above, you *can* check timing with the SPOUT in (to examine total timing, etc) but to set base timing you need to remove the SPOUT connector. Otherwise one might think that it is physically impossible to check timing with the SPOUT connector installed.

I would want to be sure the balancer has not lost its integrity (elastomer).

Stated very crudely, the more you advance timing from 10*, the higher the idle. The more you retard the timing below 10*, the lower the idle.
Good luck.