Vortech Aspirations

The 30's are on T Bird turbo couped. I bought a set local from a buddy for $75 and then got a bullet PRO M 75 MAF calibrated for 30's for $125. If you are getting a tune, then keep the MAF you have, sell the 24's and either get a new set of Ford or Bosch injectors or if you do buy used and don't know the history, factor in the cost of getting them flow tested. At a minium soak them ovrnight in some Techron to clean out any crud, and install new O rings as cheap insurance.
 
Ok thanks. Now for the MAF issue. I have a 70mm MAF already. Instead of buying a calibrated MAF to go with 30's, can I have my ECU tuned to work with the larger injectors? I've heard that is a better option. Any opinions on that?
Yes, yes you can get a tune and reuse maf. The inital tune is kinda pricey (for me at least it was.) After the purchase of an sct chip and tune if I remember right it was like 6 or $700. But if you ever need or want to retune alot of places to life time tunes for "free." You pay for dyno time but the don't charge for the guy fartin around on the commuter. How much does a calibrated maf run?
 
Ok thanks. Now for the MAF issue. I have a 70mm MAF already. Instead of buying a calibrated MAF to go with 30's, can I have my ECU tuned to work with the larger injectors? I've heard that is a better option. Any opinions on that?
Yes, yes you can get a tune and reuse maf. The inital tune is kinda pricey (for me at least it was.) After the purchase of an sct chip and tune if I remember right it was like 6 or $700. But if you ever need or want to retune alot of places to life time tunes for "free." You pay for dyno time but they don't charge for the guy fartin around on the computer.
 
Looks like 84Ttop will be supplying my SCi kit. Thanks Nick.

I have a question about crank pulley clearance to radiator. How much farther does the SCi kit's crank pulley stick out towards the radiator? I got a pretty thick aftermarket AL rad and electric fan and I need to make sure I have enough clearance.

Right now my current pulley has 1 3/4" clearance to the fan housing. Here is the monster rad and fan I have in the car now. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/radiator...-fan-combination-for-79-93-ford-mustangs.html
 
It will clear the flexalite radiator but will be very close. On some cars I've had to kick the bottom of the radiator in a hair to have enough clearance for the electric fan but it's as simple as unbolting the top and moving the bottom forward in the mounts. It can get to be a tight fit but I've never had one not fit, fwiw
 
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Dang it, I'm fighting the HP bug! Reading this thread is giving me a chubby for a Vortech.

@84Ttop, can you please PM me a price on an entry level kit. I gotta start pinching those pennies! I'd like to get to 400rwhp on a Daddy budget bro!
 
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I see the factory airbox would be deleted in this kit. I'm not crazy about that but oh well. I've looked at pictures of other installations but I can seem to find a picture showing where the MAF gets located. Can anyone expand on the MAF location?
 
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The MAF will be in the new Vortech airbox which is located where the factory box once was. "Unless" you decide to add a powerpipe and cut your inner fender. Then the MAf will located inside the fender behind the headlight.
 
I see the factory airbox would be deleted in this kit. I'm not crazy about that but oh well. I've looked at pictures of other installations but I can seem to find a picture showing where the MAF gets located. Can anyone expand on the MAF location?
If you want to see what the bay looks like with the power pipe hit my build thread the last picture shows it going in the fender
 
The 30's are on T Bird turbo couped. I bought a set local from a buddy for $75 and then got a bullet PRO M 75 MAF calibrated for 30's for $125. If you are getting a tune, then keep the MAF you have, sell the 24's and either get a new set of Ford or Bosch injectors or if you do buy used and don't know the history, factor in the cost of getting them flow tested. At a minium soak them ovrnight in some Techron to clean out any crud, and install new O rings as cheap insurance.

I got some used 30lb SVO injectors - F1SE-E5A.

When soaking in Thecron, is overnight more than enough to get them good and clean?
 
There is a screen in the top of the injector. You can take them out, but you will damage it in the process and will need to put a new one in. You have to find a screw that will thread into the filter (a 10-32 bottoming tap also works). The filter is plastic so the screw will thread in pretty easily Thread the screw in a couple threads (don't go very deep) and put the head of the screw in a vise and pull the filter out of the injector. You can put a new filter in by starting filter by hand and just press it against a hard surface to drive it down into the injector. You have to make sure you replace the filter with a matching filter.


Although this is for a BMW, they are the same bosch injectors

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1500086-DIY-rebuilding-fuel-injectors
 
There is a screen in the top of the injector. You can take them out, but you will damage it in the process and will need to put a new one in. You have to find a screw that will thread into the filter (a 10-32 bottoming tap also works). The filter is plastic so the screw will thread in pretty easily Thread the screw in a couple threads (don't go very deep) and put the head of the screw in a vise and pull the filter out of the injector. You can put a new filter in by starting filter by hand and just press it against a hard surface to drive it down into the injector. You have to make sure you replace the filter with a matching filter.


Although this is for a BMW, they are the same bosch injectors

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1500086-DIY-rebuilding-fuel-injectors

You do not need to change the screens/filters unless they are all rusted or gunked up.
 
There is a screen in the top of the injector. You can take them out, but you will damage it in the process and will need to put a new one in. You have to find a screw that will thread into the filter (a 10-32 bottoming tap also works). The filter is plastic so the screw will thread in pretty easily Thread the screw in a couple threads (don't go very deep) and put the head of the screw in a vise and pull the filter out of the injector. You can put a new filter in by starting filter by hand and just press it against a hard surface to drive it down into the injector. You have to make sure you replace the filter with a matching filter.


Although this is for a BMW, they are the same bosch injectors

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1500086-DIY-rebuilding-fuel-injectors

This is helpful information, thank you.

I discovered that a drywall screw gently screwed in then pull out with pliers gets the screens out without damaging them. They look to be in good shape and not clogged or rusted. I'll take them all out, clean everything and put back together. I don't see a need to buy new screens but I will get new orings for the install into the car.