Well, here's my advice....
Do the Jerry mod, and while you're in your tranny, go ahead and install a 3,000 converter (at least). Make sure to get a PLATE style cooler, and Amsoil synthetic tranny fluid can help it to perform to its full potential, and keep it cool

Do it once, do it right.
Also, get nothing less than 4.10's in a n/a car. They won't hurt MPG's much at all, I pulled 22+ MPG's with em, in a FULL bolt on car.
To get all that power to the ground, its gonna be necessary that you get a worthy suspension. I'd suggest some good S/F's, and Upper/Lower Control Arms. You can always unbolt your front sway bar at the track for extra weight transfer (I just took my front sway bar off, but alot of people don't like the way it feels in the corners).
If you want anything along the lines of a CAI, etc... here's my .02
Get a Steeda CAI, or K&N FIPK, they don't have a bend before the MAF, AND they have heat shields around teh filters, therefore, they are both good choices. I'd avoid any sort of aftermarket MAF, seeing as how the stock one is good to 300 RWHPish. A Pro-M wouldn't be needed until big HP gains, and a C&L wouldn't be much (if any) better than an FIPK. Get a TB and plenum. Don't go bigger than a 70mm TB, because a stock car doesn't need that much air, 75mm TB have actually slowed down mostly stock (just bolt on) cars. I lost 1.5 tenths with my 75mm TB as compared to stock when I just had mufflers, CAI, and 3.73's. Plenums, well that is up to you. They are all quality, and they all offer roughly the same gains.
Exhaust, well, there are about a bajillion options here. If you get headers, go L/T. I have FRPP shorties, and I wish I had waited until someone came out with L/T's for the 4R-70W cars. An H-pipe should be good for more low end torque, and sound better with chambered muffler. And X-pipe will be good for a few more ponies up top, and sounds best with a straight through style muffler.
Well, thats the basics as TARZAN sees em.
We could always go into weight reduction, but thats another thread
-Will