Well I made a decision.....

I have yet to see a Sohc or Dohc shootout be won by a Centri. When you launch at 5000 rpm do you actually think your car stays there for long???? Your a dyno guy. Where are your dyno graphs to back up your statement?
 
Take a look at all of the super street outlaw racers, they either run Nitrous, Turbo, or a centrifugal supercharger. These cars run in the 7's. Guys who run mod motor cobras with roots or twin screw superchargers run in the 10's at low elevation tracks. At World Ford Challenge this year I didn't see one real fast car running a roots or twin screw supercharger.

As far as launching at 5000 RPM, I know when I launch my car there, it drops a few hundred RPM then it's on its way to 7000.

I'm sure you'll like your Kenne Bell. It will make your car feel like a big block car on the street when you punch it at 2500 RPM. They are also great for towing because of the torque production at lower RPM. I've personally set up Kenne Bell and Whipple Cobras which are over 500 RWHP, but for racing applications a centrifugal will always be better.

As an aside, if you get the car built right, even with a twin screw supercharger, your not going to be launching it at 2000 RPM unless you are running street tires. You'll want 4000 or 5000 RPM as well, assuming you build a driveline that can handle it.

-Matthew
 
MatthewP said:
Take a look at all of the super street outlaw racers, they either run Nitrous, Turbo, or a centrifugal supercharger. These cars run in the 7's. Guys who run mod motor cobras with roots or twin screw superchargers run in the 10's at low elevation tracks. At World Ford Challenge this year I didn't see one real fast car running a roots or twin screw supercharger.

As far as launching at 5000 RPM, I know when I launch my car there, it drops a few hundred RPM then it's on its way to 7000.

I'm sure you'll like your Kenne Bell. It will make your car feel like a big block car on the street when you punch it at 2500 RPM. They are also great for towing because of the torque production at lower RPM. I've personally set up Kenne Bell and Whipple Cobras which are over 500 RWHP, but for racing applications a centrifugal will always be better.

As an aside, if you get the car built right, even with a twin screw supercharger, your not going to be launching it at 2000 RPM unless you are running street tires. You'll want 4000 or 5000 RPM as well, assuming you build a driveline that can handle it.

-Matthew

I agree with you 100%. A PD is not for a full blown race car, neither is a centri, Turbo is the only way to go or a huge hit of nitrous. I am strictly talking, street/strip cars. Not full race set up. A PD is better light to light, and from the line at a track. A centri has the advantage up top for sure. If you compare a Kenne Bell equiped car to a Centri car with exactly the same peak hp and tq numbers the KB will win off the line. That is why they make such great street cars and why ford went with the Eaton over a centri. I am by no means saying a centri is a bad blower, they are awesome when set up right and will make more peak HP than a PD will. But a PD has it's place and is very effective in certain conditions.
 
You are absolutely correct that the PD SC will make more torque in the lower RPM's. I never argued that.

You are however, dead wrong, thinking that a PD SC will out 60' a Centrifugal SC, dead wrong. It is more than the just the motor and it's power curve you have to consider. It is the entire drivetrain. When properly setup a comparable Centrifugal SC will out 60' a comparable PD SC.

I once thought the same way you did. I was shown that I was wrong with my own car, an 88 Mustang GT 383 SCed Stroker. I wish I still had that car.:( The same thing applies to the modular Fords though. I learned that the hard way from one of the top 1/4 mile racer's in SK.

Originally I ran a 16 PSI KB Blowzilla on it and 3.73's. The best that car ever put out with the KB was a 1.65 60'. With a 16 PSI Vortech T Trim and 4.10's, the car put down a 1.5 60' and ran about a second faster in the 1/4.

This is not a freak situation either. Any hard core racer, that I have either talked to personally or over the net agrees with me on this point.
 
TGJ said:
You are absolutely correct that the PD SC will make more torque in the lower RPM's. I never argued that.

You are however, dead wrong, thinking that a PD SC will out 60' a Centrifugal SC, dead wrong. It is more than the just the motor and it's power curve you have to consider. It is the entire drivetrain. When properly setup a comparable Centrifugal SC will out 60' a comparable PD SC.

I once thought the same way you did. I was shown that I was wrong with my own car, an 88 Mustang GT 383 SCed Stroker. I wish I still had that car.:( The same thing applies to the modular Fords though. I learned that the hard way from one of the top 1/4 mile racer's in SK.

Originally I ran a 16 PSI KB Blowzilla on it and 3.73's. The best that car ever put out with the KB was a 1.65 60'. With a 16 PSI Vortech T Trim and 4.10's, the car put down a 1.5 60' and ran about a second faster in the 1/4.

This is not a freak situation either. Any hard core racer, that I have either talked to personally or over the net agrees with me on this point.

No offense but your 60ft with the KB should have been way better. My friend with a stock 04Gt with a 1.7KB hit's 1.6's. A guy at our track, actually tuned by Matthew P who is posting above us cuts better 60' times than that just on his 86 393 Stroker, just on motor. That's probably the fastest street/strip car i know of around here and he has neither Centri or PD, just a stroker and nitrous. Even I can cut 1.8's N/A. I'm pretty sure I can beat 1.65 with an extra 200LB/Ft at the tires at idle. I guess we'll see this year at the track :D . It's all BS until i can prove it. This is one of those things where it depends on where yor car is set to run. Mine is going to be set to perform both on the street and the strip, it is still my daily drive and will remain so. I love the car too much to make it a trailer Queen. If i want an all track car I'd buy an old notch gut the thing put a 429 or a 460 in it and throw nitrous on it and destroy most comers, that's not what I want. I'll be happy with 500+HP and TQ, be able to be hammered in my seat the second i hit the gas wherever i want to. I'm not out to beat landspeed records or think my car is faster than the entire world, there will always be cars faster than yours, ALWAYS! I know the capabilities of the blower I bought and will use the advantages it has. Each has advantages, buy what you want, whatever floats your boat. I know why I made the decision I did, I want big torque numbers right now.
 
TweekedGT said:
No offense but your 60ft with the KB should have been way better. My friend with a stock 04Gt with a 1.7KB hit's 1.6's. A guy at our track, actually tuned by Matthew P who is posting above us cuts better 60' times than that just on his 86 393 Stroker, just on motor. That's probably the fastest street/strip car i know of around here and he has neither Centri or PD, just a stroker and nitrous. Even I can cut 1.8's N/A. I'm pretty sure I can beat 1.65 with an extra 200LB/Ft at the tires at idle. I guess we'll see this year at the track :D . It's all BS until i can prove it. This is one of those things where it depends on where yor car is set to run. Mine is going to be set to perform both on the street and the strip, it is still my daily drive and will remain so. I love the car too much to make it a trailer Queen. If i want an all track car I'd buy an old notch gut the thing put a 429 or a 460 in it and throw nitrous on it and destroy most comers, that's not what I want. I'll be happy with 500+HP and TQ, be able to be hammered in my seat the second i hit the gas wherever i want to. I'm not out to beat landspeed records or think my car is faster than the entire world, there will always be cars faster than yours, ALWAYS! I know the capabilities of the blower I bought and will use the advantages it has. Each has advantages, buy what you want, whatever floats your boat. I know why I made the decision I did, I want big torque numbers right now.


Obviously you weren't kidding when you said you made up your mind :D . Well i say kudos to sticking too it. I think you'll love it, the torque is awesome and of course the KB is upgradable so it wont get old for quite a while.

Make us proud :nice:


As for TGJ I can't even imagine what the 383 with a PD blower would have been like wow must have been quite the animal.
 
No offence taken, you are correct, my 60' times sucked but they sucked for both blowers. The only way I was going to cut a better 60' with that car was to cut the rear fenders and put wider rubber on it, which I wouldn't do at that time. The point being made was that the car cut a better 60' with the centrifugal SC.

Speed Freak, it was an extremely fun car with the KB, lots of fun.:D
 
MarkFJ40 said:
BUMP
Just looking for updates on the install.
:canada:
What else besides the kit did you need to get ?
I saw it was just over $4000 on the mustangshop website and I was wondering how you got to $6000.

Oops, haven't been on for a while. Everything is kinda stalled right now. I'm waiting on cams that have been backordered forever. My VT Stage 2's are N/A cams and they can't be used with the blower. I need blower cams, I already sold my stock PI cams. The price you saw was $4714 i'm guessing. That is the 6psi non-intercooled kit. Click on the 99-04 blower and it will give you the "supercharger options" list. I got the intercooled 9PSI kit which was $1400 +the $4700 plus I got a 14# pulley. Not cheap to say the least. I'm not really excited about the car yet. Way too many other things right now and without all the parts it kinda sucks. I just want the magic tuner fairy to come and put all the crap in and be done with it.
 
Yeah the speed game is not cheap. If it is you will be doing it more then once.

I have about 7500 just into hard parts for the motor on my build up. Not including gaskets, or headers. The blower, fuel system and tune was $6800. The tune or the software to do it is anouther $2000.

As they say, you play you pay. But what a nice pay off it will be.
 
Ya I know what you mean, thats about what is gonna cost me to do my 4V mod. The cams, valves, springs, keepers, rods, pistons, chains etc, etc, its not cheap. The only good thing is that I had the Procharger rebuilt already and its just motor and clutch I'm doing. The good thing is that I may only need to pay 750 for a good tune-up.:) Not that I want to steal the thread from you tweeked. But I enjoy reading about what everyone else is building too:nice: .
 
Lil'_Red_Rocket said:
Ya I know what you mean, thats about what is gonna cost me to do my 4V mod. The cams, valves, springs, keepers, rods, pistons, chains etc, etc, its not cheap. The only good thing is that I had the Procharger rebuilt already and its just motor and clutch I'm doing. The good thing is that I may only need to pay 750 for a good tune-up.:) Not that I want to steal the thread from you tweeked. But I enjoy reading about what everyone else is building too:nice: .

No worries man! That's what this place is all about. Seeing what everybody's doing and how the winter projects are going. That things gonna be one mean machine! :nice: