I believe that a t 5 was mentioned too wasn't it? Again,.this is where I get a bad rap. Anybody that hasn't at least dabbled in this, or been involved in something similar needs to look at the bigger picture. All the want to in the world won't change things one bit when something don't work, or fails prematurely because it was a process best left to somebody else. I can nail two boards together, I can even build a deck. That doesn't qualify me to build a house though.While I don't disagree, he has all but said directly that he wants to rebuild it himself. And I've said repeatedly that it wouldn't make sense to go retrofit roller cam, so I agree with all of that too - but it's his decision. If he were to go with a reman or crate engine he'd definitely need to make sure it's properly balanced for his flywheel as it looks to be that he intends to reuse it and II flywheels aren't an easily obtained item. He'd definitely need to have the flywheel rebalanced for a new engine if he isn't able to locate a 28oz engine within his budget, that much is certain. A crate engine is definitely the easiest way to go, and maybe the cheapest? I wouldn't know if it'd be the cheapest, I've never tried to compare costs. But you're right, there are definitely going to be specialty tools needed and that needs to be a consideration, it all adds up.
I believe that a t 5 was mentioned too wasn't it? Again,.this is where I get a bad rap. Anybody that hasn't at least dabbled in this, or been involved in something similar needs to look at the bigger picture. All the want to in the world won't change things one bit when something don't work, or fails prematurely because it was a process best left to somebody else. I can nail two boards together, I can even build a deck. That doesn't qualify me to build a house though.
I'm not opposed to buying a pre-built engine.
They sure don't.... but a Milodon 8qt will if you either have a manual rack or have 1" spacers between the motor mounts and the block!Oh, and not that it's a huge issue, but the front sump pan in the engine you linked wouldn't work, he'd need to swap it for the II front sump. Standard front sumps don't clear the rack and pinion.
Hi, It's been awhile since I've initiated a new thread.
Most of you know I'm a retired, single (divorced), old guy with a 76 Cobra II that I first bought in '78. Last fall after going on a road trip with my car I discovered that the valve guides had gone to crap and I was going to have to do a rebuild this spring. Which is kind of cool cause I get to add some new parts and HP.
I spent the winter hunting, ice fishing, and cross country skiing. The winter was awesome and has passed with the blink of my eye. I even took a vacation in January and went someplace warm for 3 weeks.
1 week ago I was skiing in far northern Minnesota having the time of my life. I returned to my home on Monday and stopped at the grocery store to stock up as my cupboards were bare.
Tuesday morning I was sitting on my couch having a cup of coffee and watching the morning news which as you all know is dominated by Covid-19 and I noticed that I had a very weird headache which would come on for a few minutes and then go away repeatedly all day and in the evening it receded. I attributed it to possible dehydration or maybe allergies. Although my allergies are mostly in the fall ragweed season.
Wednesday my eyes were itchy in the morning confirming to me that it was probably allergies. After supper my nose started to run. That made me think it was a cold.
Thursday morning 12:30AM I woke up thinking I was drowning as all the snot had collected in my throat. That was nasty. No more sleep all night and I felt miserable sneezing and coughing all day. I definitely don't have enough tissue. Sleep was not happening for another night.
Friday about mid-day I went on-line to my healthcare website and filled out the Zipnosis questionnaire about the symptoms even though I didn't have a fever. The whole process was amazingly efficient and I got a response in less than 20 minutes from an actual human. My symptoms fall within the Covid-19 threshold for the time being and I started my quarantine. I actually took a nap for the first time since I went to Kindergarten. Sleep was not going on for another night but I still didn't have a fever.
Saturday (yesterday) I slowly started to feel better and my cough lessened and turned into a dry kind of hack. My headache although slight returned but I slept straight through for 10 hours.
I woke up this morning and took my temp. It was up 2 degrees...I had no clue as I felt much better. Probably due to the much needed sleep. Nose is still runny. Cough is persistent although not too frequent. At the writing of this the temp has gone down 1 degree. I still feel like this is a cold.
The conundrum is that because there are no/not enough tests available and the stock market has tanked with no end in sight; I don't feel like I should go spend any time or money on the Cobra II.
So, all I can do is dream about what I'd like to do for my car and wait to see if I come through on the other side in one piece. Because I'm not a mechanic or up to speed on different combinations of parts; I'd like to start the conversations on what to do to my engine and when this is pandemic passes and with your help, I hope to be able to have a really solid engine ready to be put together.
Right now because I don't really know I'm thinking of using the Edelbrock E-street kit for the 289/302. I already have the manifold and the carb. That leaves the heads and cam to purchase along with the hardware. Any thoughts? Lilcbra, you have a specific list of parts you used and were at 300HP. How did you come to pick the specific parts you used? Was it some proven assembly?
Thanks,
Enzio
I would start with a newer roller block at this level of power. The roller cam will be new oil friendly and give you better street performance options.
If you are going with Edelbrock heads, why not stick with their intake, carbs, headers, maybe even their cam for an enjoyable package?
I think almost any aftermarket aluminum heads are going to flow better than D5 or stock E7 heads. Gt-40 plain or P heads are better than most other Ford heads, but the P heads have a fun spark plug angle that need to be accounted for in header design.
And the driveline...and plenty to require suspension and brake upgrades
In the before the Exploders hit the salvage yards, a Turbo 4 was a surprisingly quick motor in the Pinto and similar body cars. An ecoboost would still be a blast. But for the $ and reliability, a roller block 302/347 would be better to drive, and plenty to require suspension and brake upgrades. Have fun!
Meh, ya'll haven't lived until you've tried to stop a II with 9" rotors before running out of pavement at the dragstrip from 110mph...And the driveline...
I would perhaps use a production head for the start. Then you don't have to mess with the valve train and you can buy a long block. I would focus on the T5 swap. You can swap to aftermarket heads later on and spend the $$$ now for a z-spec T5 and a limited slip diff, which you will need, when you upgrade to aftermarket heads IMO. For a swap in the car, I would recomend the AFR165cc heads because they are know, that they will work with the stock bottom end (stock cam and valve-to-piston clearance). They perform also very well with the stock cam. Good torque trough the whole RPM range and good fuel economy.
I would reuse you intake and carb in the beginning. When you swap to aftermarket heads, I would perhaps buy a higher intake weiand stealth, but then you have to mess with the hood clearance. For carburator I would buy a remanufactores holley 4180 from rockauto, that was original on the 85 mustang 5.0 HO. This will work out of the box. Another option is a 650 cfm holley, perhaps with mechanical secondarys, but the holley will need more work. The holley 4180 will be the better part-throttle carb.
I never have missed the AFR heads on my roller engines, they are strong enough to have plenty of fun. Steering, brakes and suspension are the limiting factor on my 66 coupe.
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