What can a dyno tune do.....

[mto502]

I hear ya on the highway/410's thing...I didn't really like that either, but acceleration was very nice. 373's are an excellent compromise IMO, and once you get that a/f ratio dialed in, you'll definitely pick up. As for the speedo thing, I just deal with it, but I would like to get it accurate...might just get a SpeedCal from Dallas Mustang or BBK...

The other funny thing I forgot to mention to you was that these ET's and traps I achieved were prior to pullies and aftermarket shifter.
The part that I find funny and don't understand is that I had my car on the dyno with a wideband a few weeks (that was when I discovered it runs rich) ago and the rwhp was about the same or even a bit less with the pullies.
Could the richness of the AFR being drowning out any improvements the pullies may have made? I haven't had the car back to the track since the pullies and shifter.

 

[rel3rd]

.
Could the richness of the AFR being drowning out any improvements the pullies may have made? I haven't had the car back to the track since the pullies and shifter.

It certainly can, and probably is...
That was the only changes I made to my N/A tune, was to lean it out...I started at like 11.5:1...The car revs alot crisper and "cleaner" now for sure...

 

[mto502]

It certainly can, and probably is...
That was the only changes I made to my N/A tune, was to lean it out...I started at like 11.5:1...The car revs alot crisper and "cleaner" now for sure...

Super.
Thanks for the time you took in educating me with your expertise

Cheers

Rick

 

[mto502]

I'm surprised there aren't more here that have experience with a custom tuned chip.
CivicEater I read your other post about your track results. I'm sure you'd benefit from a custom tuned chip or some aftermarket DIY tuning device.

 

[CivicEater]

Man you guys are really tempting me to get a new Credit card and charge a dyno tune but I know I shouldnt and that it is never good to charge car parts. What does a chip change then if I am idling fine and my gas consumption is "ok" ? I am just looking for better track times than I got in my other post. How much do you think I could find a used PMS for? I havent really looked for a used one yet......

 

[rel3rd]

I've seen used ones go for as cheap as $400, and as much as $700...I got my brand new 2004 version for $825 shipped...

Probably the best reason I know of to not get a chip is because you can always "play with" or "tweak" your tune infinitely with most tuning devices.

If your considering a new or used PMS, I'd browse the PMS forums at www.stangtuning.com and get an idea of what features you'd get, and what support you will get from fellow users...They also have Tweecer/eec tuner forums as well...

 

[mto502]

Man you guys are really tempting me to get a new Credit card and charge a dyno tune but I know I shouldnt and that it is never good to charge car parts. What does a chip change then if I am idling fine and my gas consumption is "ok" ? I am just looking for better track times than I got in my other post. How much do you think I could find a used PMS for? I havent really looked for a used one yet......

Go hook your car up to a wideband and dyno it. Then you'll know for sure how out of whack it is.

 

[95snoozer]

you guys both need dyno tunes.

seriously, you shoudl be whipping me at the track

i dynoed 247/290

 

[mto502]

you guys both need dyno tunes.

seriously, you shoudl be whipping me at the track

i dynoed 247/290

Yeah I've got you by about 30 rwhp and 10 rwt, but you have me by more than 4 tenths on the 60 ft. Is your car full weight and stock suspension ? That's a nice ET for stock heads.
I'm still learning to drive at the track as well.

It's amazing what running rich can do to hurt performance. I'd sure love to see a minimum 110 mph trap speed after the tune. For this season I think I'll only concern myself with trap speeds.

 

[95snoozer]

I weigh 3265 with driver on that run and bang the gears

dont worry I will be coming after teh 110 mark soon too with my new setup.

 

[mto502]

I'm 3500 lb's with driver and I granny shift. I don't think I'm interested in powershifting at this point in time.

 

[95snoozer]

normmal quick shifting I went 13.05 13.04 only PSing the 3-4

how in the hell are you 3500?

do you have a huge system and weigh 300 pounds?

when I had 3 2 amps 2 12 inch subs, crossover and absolutely no weight reduction, I weigh in at 3240 without me and 3400 with me

I found each gear I powershift I pick up about .5 hp you shoudl at least power shift 4th. its a strong gear. 3rd si the weakest and you have to really have it down to throw the 2-3 with the pedal to the floor. But 3-4 is a simple flip of the wrist. my 1-2 is normal

 

[95snoozer]

also, MTO502

if you are going to get a dyno tune I would put it off a little and change that cam.

something form AFM like an n-41..... call rick at Anderson ford motorsports. 217 935 2384

or maybe something like a comp xe274.

are you going 347 in the future? those heads are big


the n41 would really help out your heads with that I/E they have its really low. and you need an exhaust biased cam. do you have any porting?

 

[mto502]

The car weighs about 3250 lb's and I'm tipping the scale at 240 so it's pretty close to 3500. That was weighed on a truck scale with a full tank of gas and it came in at about 1460 kilograms to the best of my recollection. I may need to weigh it again just to double confirm those numbers. I know I weigh 240 though.
Again I have zero weight reductions on the car, and that includes the spare and jack. My car is completely stock in appearance and suspension. Like I said, I've not removed anything from the car. It's full weight other than the 60 or so pounds I saved with aluminum heads. I even have cats, smog pump, air conditioning, fog lamps, spoiler etc etc..
Man, I have 80 lb's on you you scrawny little......

OK, I could afford to drop a solid 25 lb's. 215 lb's is a perfect weight for me. I want that weight back.

Anyway, I've achieved 104.6 mph (granny shifting or speed shifting..whatever ya call it) and that's running at 10.1:1 AF, so hopefully when that gets leaned up some I'll see better traps. I'll even try removing the spare and jack next time I'm out to the track.

 

[mto502]

double post

 

[mto502]

also, MTO502

if you are going to get a dyno tune I would put it off a little and change that cam.

something form AFM like an n-41..... call rick at Anderson ford motorsports. 217 935 2384

or maybe something like a comp xe274.

are you going 347 in the future? those heads are big


the n41 would really help out your heads with that I/E they have its really low. and you need an exhaust biased cam. do you have any porting?

Yeah the heads are slightly ported, but they were ported to match the cam. They were just touched up a bit to match the intake as well. They're 2.02 valves with 1.6 exhaust and are 54 CC's.
I'm going to stick with this cam for now. We'll see how it goes.

I'm getting mixed reviews on the TF stage 1 cam. The tuner I'm using says it's not that bad of a cam. When I 1st spoke to him I said he was going to cringe when I told him what cam I have with the rest of my hardware. He stated that it's not that bad, but also not as good as what he could set me up with in a custom cam. I just want the car tuned right now. With that AFR it has now I'm thinking I might see some big improvements.

No I don't have any plans on going to a 347.

 

[95snoozer]

your car should blow passed the 300 mark with a good cam. na no it doesnt take an FTI cam to make power. I have seen much much more with comp and afm combos.

not scrawny, I am just short. 165 of muscle, runner/pitcher

still though

ditch teh strut tower brace and jack and spare. and the front sway bar if you have the balls and want the better 60's and weight off the front. Your car is still heavy for what it is. I with stock headsno weight reduction and stereo I was still lighter than you

I too look stock. except the cobra front bumper

your cam is hurtin your cars potential. you need something big, as your heads are big enough for a 347

you also need better gears. 4.10s are not bad on the highway. and if you are scared... just go 3.90s its a healthy medium between 3.73s and 4.10s

Oh yeah, you need nittos!