nah its comp hydro roller 35-440-8.Question for you: You said he put a carb. cam in the car, with a different firing order. Is this cam a flat tappet cam? Not saying flat tappet cams don't make power, but not having a roller could cost you some power. Also, it has always been my understanding and experience that the more radical a cam gets, the better lower (numerically higher) gears are for drive ability. I would really have a difficult time thinking that a 2.73 would be more driveable then a 3.73. Sure, it will let you stay in one gear longer, but you will accelerate slower.
Joe
Ya seriously, quite a bit of nonsense written, sounds like a misdiagnosed problem, then a bunch of poor advice on how to fix it.I am not sure what this thread is even about... Kinda confusing..is your timing set properly?
I cant see where this cam is going to have street manners .... The cam is too radical for what your looking for just because max lift is small means nothing its even in the description of the cam- "Magnum camshafts are very aggressive and specifically designed for the street enthusiast looking for more power with that Pro Street sound. Intended for performance oriented vehicles that will see little street use. The idle characteristics of your engine will change due to the increased duration and overlap of the Comp Cams Magnum Cam Series. The hydraulic roller cams do dramatically decrease friction, as well as lifter wear. As far as power, the roller profile allows the design of more lift, and a greater area under the curve giving much better top end power without sacrificing bottom end. You will notice a racey idle with the 280-grind while the 292 and 305-grinds will produce a rough or ''rumbly'' idle. Stock components are incompatible. Changes are needed in rear end gear ratios, headers and the torque converter. Magnum Cams will affect your power accessories to a certain extent. The 280 and 292-grinds are the biggest cams that should be used with power assisted brakes, air conditioning, etc. You should remember that the bigger the engine is, the less the cam will affect the vacuum which affects your power accessories. The smaller your engine is, the more the Magnum Camshaft will affect your power accessories. Most late model vehicles have a vacuum canister. If your vehicle does not have a vacuum canister, it may be necessary to add one."
- Lift: .512"/.512"
- Duration: 281°/281°
- Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
- RPM Range: 2000-5500
373 is keeping your cam happy.... and like many others i guess i misunderstood you original post.HYDRAULIC ROLLER − Great in street
machines. Best power above 3500 rpm
but still good torque. Mild rough idle.
Largest for stock heads and intake.
2000+ stall recommended. That's from the comp cam catalog, and no I didn't pick the cam the damn old ass builder did. And as to where this thread is leading, or what it pertains to I guess I was just stating that I wasn't happy w/ the 3.73 gears, car runs ok but doesn't have enough hp to justify the 3.73 gears I guess, 4th gear on surface streets and 2500-2700 rpm drone on the highway. I mean yeah, it'll hit redline real fast but still a slow car. So, what I was wondering and asking is, would 3.27 or 3.55 be a better gear to go with and would it work ok with said cam. As far as the bucking, it wants to stall unless its above a certain rpm as where as before the rebuild you could just ease off the clutch and pseudo coast in 1st gear, that was when totally stock besides flowmasters and when it had the 2.73 rear. After the build it would do the said bucking and chugging when under 1100 rpm or so but seemed to buck less since the addition of the 3.73 gear. I assume it bucks less w/ the 3.73 since its not below 1100 or so as long.
Oh yeah PS stock rear suspension components for whoever was asking.
PS: 3.73 best bang for the buck mod my ass. If you don't have the horsepower to go with it you're just wasting gas.
I wasn't that serious bout the gas thing b/c who cares its a hotrod but w/ out much hp infront of the gear youre still not movin that fast it just feels like itI would think a bit different then you. The 3.73 gears act as a higher torque multiplier. This gives you quicker launches then say a stock 2.73 gear will give you. I'm not sure the extra fuel cost will off set the extra joy in seat of the pants performance. Just how I felt going from 2.73's to 3.73's.
I wasn't that serious bout the gas thing b/c who cares its a hotrod but w/ out much hp infront of the gear youre still not movin that fast it just feels like it
Lift: .512"/.512"
this cam is not a dd cam and flows way more than stocks heads should have.. if you have this cam under better heads i dont think you would have a problem..
- Duration: 281°/281°
- Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
- RPM Range: 2000-5500
BUT as far as gears for a DD.. i wish i went with 355's... spends more time in each gear and lower freeway rpm..
id get better heads, or smaller cam.. thats IF there is not an issue with your clutch or any other crap.
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