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  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

what gear w these cam specs?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 90lxwhite
  • Start date Start date Jan 14, 2013
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90lxwhite

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#41
  • Jan 28, 2013
  • #41
Rick 91GT said:
That cam is not radical but wouldn't be my first choice with that set-up, seems like there are some other possible issues. I would have went with a wider LSA for a broader power range, and with no gear in the car it will be a little last down low IMO.

What is the complete combo? I see mentions of a carb but it was tuned SCT chip so I assume its EFI?
Click to expand...
yeah it's efi, however the cam is not for efi cars, builders dumb mistake... Had to take for tune and change firing order etc.
 

gearheadboy

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Jan 29, 2013
#42
  • Jan 29, 2013
  • #42
90lxwhite said:
yeah it's efi, however the cam is not for efi cars, builders dumb mistake... Had to take for tune and change firing order etc.
Click to expand...
Ok so that is a decent shaft. Here is a dumb question. So it is a roller. YES. From what I read it is designed to FIT in a 5.0 82-01 that was equipped with a roller from factory. OK. But I don't think it is for an H.O. firing order which means you have to change to non H.O. firing order, which you did if I read correctly. And you changed the injection wiring to H.O. as well? It may run smoothly if you did both of those things however the thing will never work good because the intake is not set up to work optimal with a standard firing order. I'm still thinking...
 

90lxwhite

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Jan 30, 2013
#43
  • Jan 30, 2013
  • #43
Yeah I believe when it was taken to get tune they electronically changed the fuel injection order. It's not running as rough as you fellas are thinking, it's just not smooth like it was when it was new and stock.
 

90lxwhite

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#44
  • Jan 30, 2013
  • #44
gearheadboy said:
Ok so that is a decent shaft. Here is a dumb question. So it is a roller. YES. From what I read it is designed to FIT in a 5.0 82-01 that was equipped with a roller from factory. OK. But I don't think it is for an H.O. firing order which means you have to change to non H.O. firing order, which you did if I read correctly. And you changed the injection wiring to H.O. as well? It may run smoothly if you did both of those things however the thing will never work good because the intake is not set up to work optimal with a standard firing order. I'm still thinking...
Click to expand...
tmoss lower is on the way we'll see what we get
 
8

86bluecobra

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Jan 30, 2013
#45
  • Jan 30, 2013
  • #45
90lxwhite said:
yeah it's efi, however the cam is not for efi cars, builders dumb mistake... Had to take for tune and change firing order etc.
Click to expand...

I would have changed the cam so you had a H.O. firing order rather then do the tuning. The H.O. firing order makes more HP then the sbf firing order. That was a mistake by the builder.
 
J

jka

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#46
  • Jan 30, 2013
  • #46
The HO firing order also works with your cars computer to get the best power and driveability.
 

90lxwhite

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#47
  • Jan 30, 2013
  • #47
jka said:
The HO firing order also works with your cars computer to get the best power and driveability.
Click to expand...
day late and dollar short at this point in time..
 

90lxwhite

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#48
  • Jan 30, 2013
  • #48
jka said:
The HO firing order also works with your cars computer to get the best power and driveability.
Click to expand...
What would you guess would be the power gain by switching to an ho cam? 5 or so and another $500 trip to the tuner?
 

88LX5.Oh

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#49
  • Jan 30, 2013
  • #49
Your car is no longer stock so you can not compare it to a stock vehicle. You have aftermarket components and they are going to act differently than the factory components.

You complain about a low RPM buck, that's because the car isn't making any power at 1100 RPM, it needs to be spinning it higher than that so it won't be lugging around everywhere. This would be just like putting a larger cam in and not getting a higher stall torque converter (EDIT: if it were an auto). If you were to run a stock stall but your power comes in at 2500 RPM, you're sure to get some bucking. You need to ride your clutch out a little bit more to get into the power so you won't be bogging your motor down.

Will you notice a difference between 3.55 or 3.73's? You won't hardly notice a thing other than your speedo reading differently and a little bit lower RPM at cruising speeds. Going to a numerically lower gear ratio ("Higher" gears) is only going to make the problem worse.
 

90lxwhite

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#50
  • Jan 30, 2013
  • #50
88LX5.Oh said:
Your car is no longer stock so you can not compare it to a stock vehicle. You have aftermarket components and they are going to act differently than the factory components.

You complain about a low RPM buck, that's because the car isn't making any power at 1100 RPM, it needs to be spinning it higher than that so it won't be lugging around everywhere. This would be just like putting a larger cam in and not getting a higher stall torque converter. If you were to run a stock stall but your power comes in at 2500 RPM, you're sure to get some bucking. You need to ride your clutch out a little bit more to get into the power so you won't be bogging your motor down.

Will you notice a difference between 3.55 or 3.73's? You won't hardly notice a thing other than your speedo reading differently and a little bit lower RPM at cruising speeds. Going to a numerically lower gear ratio ("Higher" gears) is only going to make the problem worse.
Click to expand...
how much lower cruising rpm would you guess like 200 rpm less or so at 70 or more?
 

88LX5.Oh

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#51
  • Jan 30, 2013
  • #51
90lxwhite said:
how much lower cruising rpm would you guess like 200 rpm less or so at 70 or more?
Click to expand...
Yeah I'd probably say just a few hundred RPM, it definitely wouldn't be very drastic at all.
Let me ask you this, what is your typical driving conditions?
Are you in town doing a lot of stop and go driving or are you going to be on the highway a lot?
If you're gonna be in town a LOT, don't fear the gear! But for highway, 3.27 would probably be excellent and would have a much more noticeable effect vs going with 3.55's, but that would only cause the low RPM buck to be even worse. Or you could really play with the clutch pedal and spin it up to a little bit higher RPM to overcome the buck.
 

90lxwhite

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#52
  • Jan 31, 2013
  • #52
yeah
88LX5.Oh said:
Yeah I'd probably say just a few hundred RPM, it definitely wouldn't be very drastic at all.
Let me ask you this, what is your typical driving conditions?
Are you in town doing a lot of stop and go driving or are you going to be on the highway a lot?
If you're gonna be in town a LOT, don't fear the gear! But for highway, 3.27 would probably be excellent and would have a much more noticeable effect vs going with 3.55's, but that would only cause the low RPM buck to be even worse. Or you could really play with the clutch pedal and spin it up to a little bit higher RPM to overcome the buck.
Click to expand...
man its a mixture of both I guess, but mostly around town now since its no longer a daily driver. I think I'm gonna ride it out w/ the 3.73's awhile
 

castine917

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Jan 31, 2013
#53
  • Jan 31, 2013
  • #53
Going with a different cam and retune will likely benefit you better than gear change to start. I know it'll cost more but, remember that I've gone through exact same thing with the wrong firing order. I've also learned that some times gear is great and others not. 97 f150 5.4 a.o.d. had 4.56 and was perfect. 67 camaro 355 powerglide had 3.73 and 78 mustang 306 c4 had 4.10, I wanted 3.27-3.55 for those. F150 was best highway cruiser of all three. Tire height, trans gear, engine, vehicle use, and driver preference are all factors.
 

castine917

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#54
  • Jan 31, 2013
  • #54
Vehicle weight also is a factor.
 

90lxwhite

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#55
  • Jan 31, 2013
  • #55
castine917 said:
Vehicle weight also is a factor.
Click to expand...
Which cam would you go with?
 

castine917

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#56
  • Jan 31, 2013
  • #56
Ed Curtis
 

90lxwhite

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#57
  • Jan 31, 2013
  • #57
castine917 said:
Ed Curtis
Click to expand...
I was betting the farm that you or someone else was going to reply, "stock cam." I think that crappy cam is the only thing getting me 209 rwhp. I mean just has fresh e7's, 3 angle valve job, and beehive springs and that cam, lower intake sent for porting, and flat top pistons. W out the cam I'd be stock pretty much and maybe 184 rwhp $5000 + later...
 

castine917

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#58
  • Jan 31, 2013
  • #58
What compression with the flat tops?
 

baddbradd

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Jan 31, 2013
#59
  • Jan 31, 2013
  • #59
what maf and t.b. is it? I know its got to be aggravating inheriting someone else mistake. Same situation i was in...
 

90lxwhite

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Feb 1, 2013
#60
  • Feb 1, 2013
  • #60
castine917 said:
What compression with the flat tops?
Click to expand...
I believe it's only like 9.5:1
baddbradd said:
what maf and t.b. is it? I know its got to be aggravating inheriting someone else mistake. Same situation i was in...
Click to expand...
stock maf and tb, and wasn't exactly an inherited problem. Took it to the builder, said make it fast, and this was end result. Sore subject
 
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