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What needs to be done to remove tranny w/engine?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 19stang66
  • Start date Start date Jan 15, 2006
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19stang66

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#1
  • Jan 15, 2006
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Well I have already removed everything from engine that needs to be, except for the starter, and am now in the process of removing parts from the tranny. What all needs to be done to remove the tranny and engine at the same time? I know next to nothing about transmisions,never had to deal with one before, and while i got to looking at the tranny there seems to be a lot of things that need to be disconnected but i dont know where to start. Does the driveshaft just pull out as you pull the engine out? Its an automatic. Thanks!
 

jdowen2

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Dec 18, 2005
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Mesa, Az
Jan 15, 2006
#2
  • Jan 15, 2006
  • #2
Disconnect driveshaft, unbolt transmission from transmount, (remove transmount from chassis and support rear of transmission with jack) unbolt the engine from engine mounts. Pull radiator so you won't damage it when you lift out engine. Did you remove the hood? You can drill a small hole through each upper hood bracket into the hood and use that as a guide when you bolt the hood back on. Saves a ton of time trying to adjust the location. Good luck.
 
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19stang66

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Everything is out, the radiator,exhaust, hood, wiring, just need to get the transmision ready. What about the shifter? It's not stock, its a Hurst Promatic 2. Thanks for the help.
 

geostang351

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Jan 15, 2006
#4
  • Jan 15, 2006
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I think you should either drain the tranny or plug up the tail shaft hole with a spare yolk (sure u got one laying around right?). If you don't, when you tip it back, ALL the fluid will come out. Dis connect the linkage and make sure you also disconnect the speedometer cable and back-up neutral safety switch.
 
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19stang66

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i drained the fluid aready (nice n messy). No i dont have a spare yoke around so anything else i can plug it with or should it not leak anymore fluid since i drained it? Where does the linkage connect to on the tranny? And where is the neutral saftey switch? Sorry for the dumb questions. I found the speedometer cable.
 

iskwezm

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May 24, 2005
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Jan 16, 2006
#6
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #6
might not have a nuetral safety switch, and yes, you might need to remove the shifter depending how far down in sticks in the tunnel
 
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19stang66

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i'll take some pics tomorrow so you can see what im seeing. i rather not screw everything up under there. thanks.
 
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19stang66

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well i got the speedo cable off and the two trans. mounting nuts. Now my problem is how the shifter cable comes off the transmission. I can see where the cable comes from inside the car, then it looks like it makes a big loop above the tranny and comes back around to where it connects to the side of the tranny. So how does it seperate from the transmision? There seems to be a lot of extra uneeded cable. Here are some pics:




 

krash kendall

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Nov 19, 2004
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Jan 16, 2006
#9
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #9
Pull the little cotter pin out of the clevis that's in your first picture and the cable end will disconnect from the shifter arm. Then remove the two bolts holding the cable bracket to the side of the tranny (second picture). Yes, they do supply alot of cable for universallity.
 
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stihl-066

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#10
  • Jan 16, 2006
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Pull off the export brace as well It will give you a lot more clearance to get the engine out. I just pulled my motor and tranny out on Saturday. To ship to the paint shop for a complete facelift.
 
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19stang66

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I decided to go try and figure it out again before you posted krash and thats exactly what i did. Thanks though. Already got the export brace off. Everythings ready to go now, just need to get my dad or friend to help me pull it. Thanks for the help guys.
 

Edbert

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Jan 16, 2006
#12
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #12
KK nailed it, all you have to remove is the cotter pin.

For pulling and installing the entire assembly one of these will help immensely.

 

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19stang66

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got one. came with my neighbors cherry picker he bought that i put together. I had a question on it though. Which way does it go across the manifold, from shock tower to shock tower or firewall to radiator? Do you just unbolt the four manifold bolts and bolt the balancer to where the bolts where?
 

geostang351

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#14
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I've never used one (wish I had) It goes front to back to allow for the proper pitch to remove the motor. It appears as though there are 4 connection points. If so, I would connect one chain to each corner of the heads. You'll see where the accessories are attached, those are the holes used to support the motor.
 
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19stang66

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this way?

or this way?

do the L-brackets bolt onto the manifold?
 

Edbert

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I'd bolt the last link on each chain to the front and back of each head. Use the threaded holes that are used for accessories.
 

geostang351

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Picture number two
 
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19stang66

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thanks guys, i might try to pull it if i have time today, let you know how it goes.
 
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19stang66

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#19
  • Jan 28, 2006
  • #19
HELP ASAP!

I'm confused as to where to attach that balancer. You guys keep saying to the front and back of the heads where accessories would go. Where do you mean specifically?

These holes? Are they in the same place on the back? What size/grade bolts should I use?



I don't know why or what that white stuff is in the first picture. But are those the holes I use or can I attach to the intake manifold?

Edit:Oh and what size/grade/length bolts do you use to attach the block to the engine stand? Where will the bolts attach the block to the engine stand? Sorry for the newb questions.
 

Edbert

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#20
  • Jan 28, 2006
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Yes, those are the holes to use.

I do not know the thread size off hand, take one of your accessory bolts down to Lowes and match them up.

Grade 3 would probably suffice, but I used 5 since I only had two instead of four.
 
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