What next? 2008 GT Project

Hi, Covered the Staple items, what about the Exhaust System? Headers? That’s usually is on the list, want your Car to sound the way you want it to. Clutch solid, Car doesn’t require any TLC? If that’s all good.
There’s also Tires & Rims, make it your own.
A nice shot of wet NOS is good to have when you need it, most. Don’t go overboard, Max. Is 50% of what the Motor makes at the Crank, more conservative, at the wheels.
Also give you a look at the future to see how your Pony responds to the added HP you may hit later on, open your mind to Stopping power via larger, slotted, crossdrilled Frisbee Rotors & Caliper upgrades, lowering or alternate rate Coils & all the rest so you can plant n’ Go!
Good luck!
-John

Hi,
Have you considered Forced Induction? Looks like you’re at the crossroad; “to Boost or not to Boost”. F.I. Cost may seem high, but after reading the below, both & performance yieldcost wise.long winded response, part numbers I’d used on my 2008 Mustang GT , CMCV Spacers or deletes, may need to limit (Or eliminate) Cam phasing with aggressive Cams.
Headers are worthwhile when actively doing mod’s to improve restrictive flow, going with Shorty’s is better than Stock, gains are not large.
Long Tubes are the best hands down & absolutely worth it if you plan on building. they will become the “Cork in the bottle”.At minimum, run high flow Cat’s & a free flowing exhaust. Doesn’t need to be excessively loud to achieve this, unless you want it to be, lol.
FYI: Stock 4.6l Injectors are 24 LB EV6 units @ 85% Duty cycle, Their capability= 325 N.A. HP. 250HP if F.I. So, youre already close @ 300HP....
30lb Ingectors support 410 N.N.A HP' same injectors support 315 F.I. HP. I went 35’s.
Emission guidelines strict where you live?if you later plan to sell- then you also might run into issues, something to keep in mind is all, see it occur frequently. Keep old parts..
Cams are relatively easy to do, providing they can run with the OE Valvesprings, importance of taking pictures before, during, as a later reference cannot be overstated.
Starting with aftermarket Cams, things tend to snowball. To get best potential of Cams, you’ll find yourself looking at upgrading the Manifold, Throttle body, injectors, Exhaust.
I first ran the Stock Intake, CMCV delete, rear Springs, a C.J. Throttle body, Big Brembo’s, Kooks 1-5/8” Longtubes, Roush Exhaust, it was about a 40-50RWHP Gain.
(Estimated) I’m assuming you have an SCTX4 Tuner & Bama’s “Tunes for life”- correct? Then Tunes are covered (Including L.T. Headers).
The items below are what I’m running & I couldn’t be happier with it’s mannerisms & low end Torque, Traction Control button also unleashes my more aggressive Tune, hit it & hang on, yet docile.
Decent mileage on Highway( 24).
Cost would have been LESS had I taken the F.I. Route, but a GT500, a Blown, Stroked 33’ with a 351W (434CID).Enough FI!
Wife’s Car, to boot.She’s an ‘apprentice, yet excellent wrencher’ with great learning skills (Perfect Woman!).
I went on AM & looked up past purchases, this N.A. Car goes like the wind. Thought this might help your direction.

Great Intake, Ford Racing, bolt on, deletes your CMCV’s, BAMA can do the EEC’s CMCV delete: 600$


Granatelli, T. Body, 62mm,x(2) a Bolt on, all new Hardware Sensors installed, 15HP increase by itself- 400$ (SR is much cheaper, don’t trust them quite yet, others love their parts).


Cams-
Both listed are 720$-750$ & near +30HP, 50-60+ Gain with Headers, Intake, 35lb Injectors, good CAI...
All the efforts & $$
below yielded over a 150HP N.A.Gain. How am I certain of this, I have an 08’ (Ok, got it for my Wife in 16’). Parts I used.
Have an 08’ GT & GT500. GT’s running all parts listed (+CJ T.B. & with #1 Cam below) best pull was 428RWHP @ 4,600, 470Ft/Lbs.@ 3,200 (Pony’s were/are rated at the Crank, my figures are RWHP) & I’d upped Injectors from 30’s to 35Lbs, added +2 Deg of advance & added a 2 Stage. 125/75 HP
Hardline Plate WET NOS System, since the Dyno, I tweak it on the side of the road, IT’S my Dyno, for now..
Largest grind without P/V issues** nor sacrificing low end, midrange response, can run OE Cam phasers, Springs, Followers, etc. True R&R.- Power curve pulls very hard off its Lopey idle- to 6,500RPM’s


The below is more aggressive, P/V is clear**. Rough idle. Requires more parts & work. Cam phasers need be limited, soggy bottom end. Drivability suffers, wakes up strong at 3,200-3,500, strongest at near 5K-6.8K. Anything works with a 5 speed, up to you. IMO, suited best as a limited street/strip app.grind:


Injectors, Deatchwerks, 35lb: 500$ (Can find other Injectors, Ford Racing 35LB for 350$).


KOOKS L.T. 1-5/8” 304S.S. Headers w/Catted X Pipe. 1,200$. Note: Ceramic coated BBK L.T.’s can be bought for around 500$, and work well. I’d wrap them with titanium wrap.
I opt for 304 Stainless, super thick flanges, excellent TIG weld quality. & fit.


BBK 1-5/8”: 500$


Roush Catback Exhaust, sounds incredible, no more “drone”..304SS. IF your area has strong emission laws, they might not like this, n! 600$


Now, it becomes 02 extensions, Gaskets, fasteners, other Parts required. With the same basics you have, I went with L.T. Headers, Exhaust, Intake T.B., & was impressed.
So, you’re around 5,500$ Minimum in a N.A. Build, forgot to add a few things, (which throws a budget to the wind).
I’d also forgotten to add in the McLeod Street extreme Clutch & lightened Steel Flywheel, Fords Slave (Shimmed) & Pilot, Hardware. McLeod’s braided line, etc. say 600$.
So, there you have it, 150HP,+ N.A. gain, no labor, 5,500$. 37$ per HP. I could’ve gone F.I., made +200-300HP, for less (18-22&$/HP, 300HP figure).
But chose to keep it an N.A.build.
If you are on a budget (90% are) you can strategically add select parts over time.
, N.A., if you’ve a sizable budget, or replenishes with time, balance the Car out with Brakes, Suspension, safety & add HP between, over time.
Go with Cams, Intake, Injectors, then T.B., and if it’s Exhaust is free flowing, leave Headers & Exhaust until the time is right.
Whatever works best for you-
Hope this helps!
Ask any questions you’d like!

** ALWAYS check P/V clearance with a different Cam.

-John. My T/B & NOS

My 08’ GT & Shelby GT500
.

Hi,
Beer is great, lol! Honestly, a Thumbs up to the post is just fine if I’m worthy, lol! then if I see you, someday, we can find a long stretch and race for Beers, (drink afterwards) lol!
Brenspeed makes good Cams, an ongoing conflict has been ensuing regarding “what’s best” between Car addicts for several decades. Some say “Custom grinds”- & there’s a place for that.
I think it’s “what’s best for you”.
What you need to consider, no matter who you go with, is Tq/H.P. in usable ranges you can apply, everyday, Torque that starts down low to give you Tire shredding power until H.P. takes over pulling hard to 4.6L capable RPM’s, (safely with stock Springs, followers, Valves, etc. Bottom ends are strong, Valvetrain limits things).
The use of matched components help navigate pitfalls others weren’t so lucky with. Components that have been dyno’ed against others in many combo’s & costing lots of $$ boils down to your needs, desires (And your Wallet).
Many go overkill, as predecessors did with Cams & Carbs. Take a peek at this Article::
Some make less power than less usable TQ/HP than they began with.)
IMO, the best thing since sliced Bread is Variable Cam Timing. Strong low end Torque, High RPM HP to a degree that was only dreamt of, before. Cam gets too hot, V.V.T. needs gets limited, then eliminated.
Each Mod. added should support and compliment the next, it adds up non linear as you cover each base. Once complete, it’s what you desire!
I’d start with a T.B. and Injectors. New Tune. LMR has a good reference, I’d posted it, here:
Do you have a Budget in place for this project? F.I. Is a firm “No” with this, correct?
Best regards!
-John

Schnelly said:

looks like this is the best I can do without putting heads on it. http://www.brenspeed.com/127200.html

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Hi, Buddy of mines running these TrickFlow Cams in his stock PI Head, 07’ GT, most other parts are pretty much the same as I’d previously listed.
I Welded up an aluminum overflow for him, and he let me drive it Wednesday this past week, was extremely impressed. Now he wants the new Clutch I installed in the GT. (See below). Advertised RPM’s are 1,800-6,500, and it pulls like it’s Forced Induction.. He’s making power at beginning to end & all in between. Take a peek.
So, in the last Month, It was time to swap Clutches in both my 08’s, first the GT, ran McLeod’s Street extreme Clutch(Organic, like OE, Wife drives it- didn’t want to ruin her experience) & McLeod’s lightened Steel flywheel (Handles 500-600HP-easy), ran a Ford pilot Bearing, OE Ford Hydraulic throw out & the included Shim, goes behind the Throwout Bearing (need run it or pedal won’t have the right disengagement height), it passed 500 miles with flying colors, grabs very hard, no drivability issues. Beginning, during break in, to now. No chatter, whatsoever.
Did the Shelby on Friday, ran a 1,000HP McLeod dual disk, also with a new Flywheel, OE Pilot, McLeod’s Hydraulic throw out, both Cars with McLeod’s braided lines- Pedal effort is very light, on both, no noise, grip is already far beyond the Valeo that was installed (was right on both, barely anything left of either, better than a blown or hyperextended Clutch stranding you, lol) 1,000HP Clutch has the Same pedal effort and disengagement/engagement smoothness the GT has. The Gt’s Organic, GT500’s is twin Metallic.
No Chatter, no noise, if you swap- highly recommend McLeod’s Street Extreme. I’ve installed many, do it on the side.
Only “bad Clutch”- persay, I’d ever come across, are Exedy’s- below the 400 Series.
(Other than older Ford Trucks, RUN OEM).
I’ve not driven the ones I install beyond 20 miles. If you can run Ford’s OE Slave, do it. As well as Fords OE Pilot. NEVER run an aftermarket Slave (Hydraulic throwout) until it hits 800+ HP engagement.They improve design when HP levels rise. You run even McLeod’s Slave at 600HP HP & It blows up, Clutch is saturated- becomes junk after that.
McLeod’s have no equal components with Mustangs, even Corvettes, Camaro’s.
The Ford OE Pilots are good for 1,200HP+
Key is running Fords OE Pilot Bearing, OE Slave, and buying McLeod’s Flywheel along with their clutch, new Crank Bolts, Pressure plate Bolts.
GT500’s runs Studs & comes bolted to the Flywheel, no Crank Bolts included, don’t listen to AM or anyone saying Bolts are included with the Street extreme, either. Just buy the Bolts & get $$ back when they are not in the box as they claimed, they are not. You also have to purchase the Flywheel separately. Aluminum is not needed, just go lightened steel, same MFG. Can’t go wrong, won’t be happier!
Just wanted to add this, will support your future Mods, easy Gravity bleed, you won’t be disappointed.
Since I install so many & build others Cars, don’t enjoy it as much unless it’s my own, but know what works.
Check out those Bumpsticks, and hope that Clutch advice helps!

P.S. They make these in 3Valve as well!
-John

drilled and dimpled you never want drilled rotors.

cam is the next best upgrade for you.

Decipha said:

drilled and dimpled you never want drilled rotors.

cam is the next best upgrade for you.

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Hi,
I agree that’s a good point in regards to Rotors and cross drilling, but the underlying subject is classification of how the Vehicle is being used, ‘what’s its intended purpose’. I’d never use “Don’t use cross drilled Rotors”, without factoring in how their Designs are approached, what losses are accrued, what are gained, their “appropriate Application”..?
Not arguing, not at all. Just looking for your point of view. Would you agree that all Rotor & Caliper designs Hinge on specific intended purposes, and lacking of Crossdrilled, Diamond pointed structural integrity lies specifically within intended purpose, Materials used, Mass, PSI exertion per S.I./MM, properly applied Engineering & machining strategies?
The best trait of correctly engineered, cross drilled Rotors is rapid alleviation of H20 glazing often encountered in Street situations.
Dimples were introduced to reduce weight, in place of other functions. Misunderstood variables in how to correctly lighten/utilize them, as they did way back when with crossdrilled Rotors, a result of Companies applying Marketing over Engineering principles to create Consumer “eye catching”. aesthetics. Scientific basis of dimples falls short of function, slightly improved temporal losses, yet primarily weight.
That being said, properly engineered, large diameter slotted Rotors alone with multi piston Calipers work well in full on Street & racing app’s, running appropriate pads.
Subtle, correctly engineered Diamond slots that lead to outer Rotor perimeters also help rid H20 glazing via Centrifugal forces, alone, Engineering of limited cross Drilling to retain strength, usage of alternative Materials potentiate this effect & reduce friction losses across the Rotor/Pad surface area.
These properly engineered, cross-drilled Increased diameter Rotors with improved Calipers were intended for high performance Street, not 10 hours of unimpeded Braking without chewing a pad, unless designed for it, correctly. Too many non-Degreed “Engineers” exist, hence the issues.
Popular Mechanics did a N.D. & Destructive test of high mass, large diameter, Vented Rotor blanks & found they were excellent for strong performing street usage, worked excellent with appropriately selected, sacrificial Pads with multi-Piston Calipers.
It boils down to weight reduction and aesthetics, most importantly- application. .
Thank you.
John

Yea I don't care about all that.

Simply put I don't recommend drilled rotors for any application ever. I'm fine with dimples if one so chooses.

Hi, Spec’s are out there for sure, found this Dyno comparison on the site, I’ll look further..
http://www.brenspeed.com/detroit3vna.html
Hope it helps!
-John

Hi, looks like a mixed comparison between the Hot Rod & Brenspeed Cams.
Summit has some good items, and bad- like most spots. What Cam’s are you looking at there?
Built a Mustang with Hotrod Cams, an 09’ 3V GT, planted just under 380 HP/400 ft/Lbs with lightly ported Head Intake runners (exh.ports were opened up +20cc’s) & bowl blending. a Ford Racing Intake, twin 62mm TB, 42lb injectors, C&L Racer CAI, 1-5/8” Pypes L.T. Headers, Roush extreme Exhaust, Catted H Pipe up front. The usual extra’s..
After looking at the TrickFlow Cam’s Lift, Duration & events, Vs. the Thumper, & the Hot Rod, and Brenspeed, you won’t get much better & retain OE Head components.
Most rarely do folks agrees on Cam’s, many just seek a rough idle, lol. My point is, you’ve got (2, possibly 3) that will do what you’re looking to do, gains- with OE valvetrain parts. Fairly Stock.
I’d suggest a call to BAMA. That would help you realize what #’s they made, differences in drivability, pro’s & con’s. They’ve already Dynoed & Tuned them, have that Data, will tell you exactly what they put down & with what.
Definitely want to keep the Cam phasing, even limited. Do a CMCV delete.
4.6’s are good to 6,700RPM’s, much further & you’re asking for OE Spring Valve float.
Really need to start building it to breathe to realize the the Cams Full potentials. Not saying ported Heads, but consider the others bolt-on’s listed above. We’re it I, I’d look closer at TrickFlow. Weigh the costs.
Or, go FI & be done with it! lol.
I have Brenspeed’s Spec’s.
Good luck!
-John

Hi,
Once you get one project under your belt, you’ll find any anxieties will fade away.
As long as you’ve a clean area to work in, buy everything you need, have lay out parts & tools, maintain cleanliness & follow instructions, halt the job if In question, 4.6l Cam(s) install really is a breeze.
F.I. Forced Induction..More expensive, ironically, per HP- it’s cheaper. Either way- well worth it!
If you’re looking at a Blower that came off a GT500, I’ll caution you against buying any used forced induction Systems or parts unless you know the person, or they have strong credibility, and it’s made for your 4.6L.
No, my friend..Going that route, you should sway to buying a new setup.
This is that “intersection” most all eventually hit, Normally Aspirated, or Forced Induction.(?)
Kenne Bell is the 8th wonder of the world regarding Superchargers. They have complete twin screw kits that are 50 State legal & bolt on, have all parts you need, don’t need to alter Cams, need Headers, could run the stock exhaust if so desired.
Even the Tuning angle’s covered.
Pricey, but absolutely worth it!
Here’s a good rundown of the subject to familiarize you. You can also call them and fire away questions, they’re pretty cool.

http://kennebell.net/products/super...-46-2005-2010-26-stage-1-stage-2-mammoth-kit/
A Supercharger is actually very reliable. Fairly Close to the reliability you feel for the bottom end of your 4.6l. The Kenne Bell, it’s likely more reliable.
There’s Centrifugal Supercharger kits, like Paxton. They’re good, respectable gains. Not as reliable as above. Mount on your Motors front, the same plane as your Alternator, little cheaper, much less gain potential- needs Tuning, etc.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Paxton/769/1001851SL-1/10002/-1

Roush makes some very good kits, priced less than a K.B., not sure if CARB compliant.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/roush-r2300-supercharger-kit.html

Then...There’s Turbochargers. Do you want to go there?lol!
Good luck!
John

Hi, Yup- only money, it’s the rate that we accumulate, ability to sustain adequate levels of net worth that is of relevance, lol
4.10’s alone would plant you solidly in the mid-upper 13’s. A decent Tune with some shift point Tuning with the Tuner & that 60HP I’d spoken of, maybe high 12’s..
Poor man’s ET gain Tip: Shed some weight.
How attached are you to your rear Seats?...lol. Relocate your Battery to the Trunk. Not saying “Gut” your Car, but there’s a good Diet plan for Pony’s, weight that doesn’t need to be there. Lighten components, it all adds up.
I’m sure you know all the HP in the world will not help if you can’t plant it. How does it do as-is? Turbo’s require a bit more $$, wrenching & fab work, Dyno Tuning & tweaking, getting rid of that heat. More of a statement, IMO.
Blowers: Parasitic loss. Much improved, however. They’ve done their homework.
You’re going to be boost limited or blow Head gaskets & such. Not under the impression you’re for O-ringing the Block, but Copper gaskets for High C.R./FI app’s that will gain you more room for boost, Studs are also superior, like ARP’s. Good reads..
Believe Kenne Bell has their own stainless ringed Gaskets. If it were me, I’d go the K.B. route, reliability & resilience, no Turbo lag.
Still don’t know how rigorous your State RMV Inspections are...?
Best!
-John