Hi,
Have you considered Forced Induction? Looks like you’re at the crossroad; “to Boost or not to Boost”. F.I. Cost may seem high, but after reading the below, both & performance yieldcost wise.long winded response, part numbers I’d used on my 2008 Mustang GT , CMCV Spacers or deletes, may need to limit (Or eliminate) Cam phasing with aggressive Cams.
Headers are worthwhile when actively doing mod’s to improve restrictive flow, going with Shorty’s is better than Stock, gains are not large.
Long Tubes are the best hands down & absolutely worth it if you plan on building. they will become the “Cork in the bottle”.At minimum, run high flow Cat’s & a free flowing exhaust. Doesn’t need to be excessively loud to achieve this, unless you want it to be, lol.
FYI: Stock 4.6l Injectors are 24 LB EV6 units @ 85% Duty cycle, Their capability= 325 N.A. HP. 250HP if F.I. So, youre already close @ 300HP....
30lb Ingectors support 410 N.N.A HP' same injectors support 315 F.I. HP. I went 35’s.
Emission guidelines strict where you live?if you later plan to sell- then you also might run into issues, something to keep in mind is all, see it occur frequently. Keep old parts..
Cams are relatively easy to do, providing they can run with the OE Valvesprings, importance of taking pictures before, during, as a later reference cannot be overstated.
Starting with aftermarket Cams, things tend to snowball. To get best potential of Cams, you’ll find yourself looking at upgrading the Manifold, Throttle body, injectors, Exhaust.
I first ran the Stock Intake, CMCV delete, rear Springs, a C.J. Throttle body, Big
Brembo’s,
Kooks 1-5/8” Longtubes, Roush Exhaust, it was about a 40-50RWHP Gain.
(Estimated) I’m assuming you have an SCTX4 Tuner & Bama’s “Tunes for life”- correct? Then Tunes are covered (Including L.T. Headers).
The items below are what I’m running & I couldn’t be happier with it’s mannerisms & low end Torque, Traction Control button also unleashes my more aggressive Tune, hit it & hang on, yet docile.
Decent mileage on Highway( 24).
Cost would have been LESS had I taken the F.I. Route, but a GT500, a Blown, Stroked 33’ with a 351W (434CID).Enough FI!
Wife’s Car, to boot.She’s an ‘apprentice, yet excellent wrencher’ with great learning skills (Perfect Woman!).
I went on AM & looked up past purchases, this N.A. Car goes like the wind. Thought this might help your direction.
Great Intake, Ford Racing, bolt on, deletes your CMCV’s, BAMA can do the EEC’s CMCV delete: 600$
FREE SHIPPING! Ideal Upgrade. Upgrade your 2005-2010 4.6L V8's intake manifold with this premium quality Ford Racing part to channel more air directly into your
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Granatelli, T. Body, 62mm,x(2) a Bolt on, all new Hardware Sensors installed, 15HP increase by itself- 400$ (SR is much cheaper, don’t trust them quite yet, others love their parts).
FREE SHIPPING! Add Power. Replace your restrictive factory throttle body with a free-flowing GMS twin blade for more power and better acceleration. This throttl
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Cams-
Both listed are 720$-750$ & near +30HP, 50-60+ Gain with Headers, Intake, 35lb Injectors, good CAI...
All the efforts & $$
below yielded over a 150HP N.A.Gain. How am I certain of this, I have an 08’ (Ok, got it for my Wife in 16’). Parts I used.
Have an 08’ GT & GT500. GT’s running all parts listed (+CJ T.B. & with #1 Cam below) best pull was 428RWHP @ 4,600, 470Ft/Lbs.@ 3,200 (Pony’s were/are rated at the Crank, my figures are RWHP) & I’d upped Injectors from 30’s to 35Lbs, added +2 Deg of advance & added a 2 Stage. 125/75 HP
Hardline Plate WET NOS System, since the Dyno, I tweak it on the side of the road, IT’S my Dyno, for now..
Largest grind without P/V issues** nor sacrificing low end, midrange response, can run OE Cam phasers, Springs, Followers, etc. True R&R.- Power curve pulls very hard off its Lopey idle- to 6,500RPM’s
FREE SHIPPING! Aggressive Sound. Give your 4.6L 3-valve Mustang an aggressive lopey idle reminiscent of the classic muscle cars of the 60's with a set of Ford R
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The below is more aggressive, P/V is clear**. Rough idle. Requires more parts & work. Cam phasers need be limited, soggy bottom end. Drivability suffers, wakes up strong at 3,200-3,500, strongest at near 5K-6.8K. Anything works with a 5 speed, up to you. IMO, suited best as a limited street/strip app.grind:
FREE SHIPPING! Mutha Thumpr. Comp Cams Mutha Thumpr Camshafts really live up to their name. These are the largest aftermarket camshafts you can run with the sto
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Injectors, Deatchwerks, 35lb: 500$ (Can find other Injectors, Ford Racing 35LB for 350$).
FREE SHIPPING! Consistent Performance. If your 'Stang is stalling, sticking or idling poorly, it could be because it's not getting the fuel it needs. DeatschWer
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KOOKS L.T. 1-5/8” 304S.S. Headers w/Catted X Pipe. 1,200$. Note: Ceramic coated
BBK L.T.’s can be bought for around 500$, and work well. I’d wrap them with titanium wrap.
I opt for 304 Stainless, super thick flanges, excellent TIG weld quality. & fit.
FREE SHIPPING! Improve Horsepower And Torque. The Kooks Long Tube Header and Catted Shorty X-pipe combo kit for the manual 2005 to 2010 GT Mustangs will balance
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BBK 1-5/8”: 500$
FREE SHIPPING! Improved Horsepower and Torque. Straight from the factory your 2005-2010 Ford Mustang GT brings industry leading horsepower and torque, but even
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Roush Catback Exhaust, sounds incredible, no more “drone”..304SS. IF your area has strong emission laws, they might not like this, n! 600$
FREE SHIPPING! Aggressive Muscle Car Sound. Let your engine howl with a Roush Extreme Performance Cat-Back System. This innovative Roush exhaust system features
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Now, it becomes 02 extensions, Gaskets, fasteners, other Parts required. With the same basics you have, I went with L.T. Headers, Exhaust, Intake T.B., & was impressed.
So, you’re around 5,500$ Minimum in a N.A. Build, forgot to add a few things, (which throws a budget to the wind).
I’d also forgotten to add in the McLeod Street extreme Clutch & lightened Steel Flywheel, Fords Slave (Shimmed) & Pilot, Hardware. McLeod’s braided line, etc. say 600$.
So, there you have it, 150HP,+ N.A. gain, no labor, 5,500$. 37$ per HP. I could’ve gone F.I., made +200-300HP, for less (18-22&$/HP, 300HP figure).
But chose to keep it an N.A.build.
If you are on a budget (90% are) you can strategically add select parts over time.
, N.A., if you’ve a sizable budget, or replenishes with time, balance the Car out with Brakes,
Suspension, safety & add HP between, over time.
Go with Cams, Intake, Injectors, then T.B., and if it’s Exhaust is free flowing, leave Headers & Exhaust until the time is right.
Whatever works best for you-
Hope this helps!
Ask any questions you’d like!
** ALWAYS check P/V clearance with a different Cam.
-John. My T/B & NOS
My 08’ GT & Shelby GT500
.