Sorry to start so many new threads but I am in the middle of installing a lot of new parts and this is one of my first fuel injected 5.0's. So i am going to install my new GT40 intake today. The intake has beeen tapped for the ACT sensor in the number 5 runner, But i have heard that putting the sensor in the intake tube betweeen the mass air and throttle body gets a better more accurate reading. I Have alsso heard that removing the senor will give the number 5 runner a little better flow removing the obstrucction from the air path. Any input would be awsome.
What should i do with my ACT on my GGT40 intake??
- Thread starter kbnugggz
- Start date
strtrcr50
New Member
When you mount the air charge temp sensor in the #5 runner, you are getting the temp right before it goes into the cylinder. This is when it's at it's highest temp. I'd rather base my fuel/timing tables on the hottest air charge rather than when it's cool and fresh out of the air filter. That would be my opinion on it anyway. However, if I ever get my engine done, there will be a strim in the intake path and I'd REALLY want to get the hotter temp so as not to get more spark than I can use. Do you have any type of tuning device(tweecer,pms,quarterhorse, etc)?
If your #5 runner wasn't already tapped for the ACT, this is what you can do. Since the runner is tapped, put the ACT there. The A9* series computer program tables are based on the ACT being in the #5 runner, so putting it here gives better results.
The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 lower manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.
If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.
6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing
Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".
The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 lower manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.
If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.
6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing
Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".
strtrcr50
New Member
Jrichker, do you find that you get more agressive timing curves that way? Also, do you notice any heat soak problems that way? I'm curious, since I can change that in the tweecer.
I can't say that I ever saw any difference it the way it worked. When I put the Explorer intake on my old Mustang, I put the ACT in the airbox as shown in the photo. I never did have it in the #5 runner when I had the Explorer intake on the engine.
strtrcr50
New Member
Have you datalogged the spark curves you get? I'm curious because in theory you will get a cooler temp reading in the airbox as opposed to an intake runner. My GT40 tubular intake has the runner tapped, so I won't find out.
datalogged the spark curves - no datalogging instruments in my budget- "its beyond my pay grade..."
strtrcr50
New Member
datalogged the spark curves - no datalogging instruments in my budget- "its beyond my pay grade..."
Emissions related question here.. I have read that the smog pump is necessary because of the second set of cats. If this is true and you are running only one set of cats and have the ability to turn off the smog pump in the tune, will you kill the first set if you do just that? I'm not that concerned with a visual inspection.
