What's a normal operating temp for a mild 306?

Normal Operating Temp for Mild 306

  • Between "R" and "O"

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    7
The fan has a temp sensor in the module on top where the wires plug in. I don't have it set. It's wired to run on start up and all the time.

it runs the whole time and still overheats? if so, something is seriously wrong, either WP is bad or going bad, or thermastat is going bad.

my fan only runs like 10-15 % of the time that the car is running. and thats with stock WP and radiator.

edit- are the intake gaskets trimed where the coolant flows?
 
it runs the whole time and still overheats? if so, something is seriously wrong, either WP is bad or going bad, or thermastat is going bad.

my fan only runs like 10-15 % of the time that the car is running. and thats with stock WP and radiator.

Well......I dunno if the car will actually overheat. It's never overheated on me before. It's been very very close once but that was when the thermostat went bad two months ago and I have changed the thermostat to a 180* in October. The Water Pump is very new. I can drive up to 20 miles on the highway and it my stock gauge w/ new sensor will go very close to the "O". If I had something wrong with the water pump or thermostat I would overheat in minutes time not half an hour or so later from my understanding.
 
water pump can, (in fact is common to) go out slowly, operating at 50% flow rate before completly going out.

I do however have a underdrive crank pulley and a cobra water pump pulley. The water pump could be a problem, but I want to make sure before wasting money on it when it could be an air flow problem. BUT if it's an air flow problem wouldn't it cool better when driving on the highway? The temp goes up when on the highway and stays still when idling.
 
I do however have a underdrive crank pulley and a cobra water pump pulley. The water pump could be a problem, but I want to make sure before wasting money on it when it could be an air flow problem. BUT if it's an air flow problem wouldn't it cool better when driving on the highway? The temp goes up when on the highway and stays still when idling.
I have underdrive pullies too
If I were you I'd let it get as hot as possible, then quickly stop and very cautionsly pop the radiator cap and see if its bubbling or steaming, if its not, Id say dont worry about it

Also, never had this happen in a car, but my motorcycle kept having overheating isuses, took a while to figure it out, but it turned out to be the radiator cap
 
I have underdrive pullies too
If I were you I'd let it get as hot as possible, then quickly stop and very cautionsly pop the radiator cap and see if its bubbling or steaming, if its not, Id say dont worry about it

Also, never had this happen in a car, but my motorcycle kept having overheating isuses, took a while to figure it out, but it turned out to be the radiator cap

I'm not getting this.....if it was running at a OK hot temp would it not boil when the cap is opened? I would think if I'm running 220* - 230* then it would probably boil, but I'm not too sure on how the whole 50/50 mix principle works.
 
Never remove the radiator cap on a hot motor. There are other ways of testing things that don't take a chance on severely burning someone.
 
Never remove the radiator cap on a hot motor. There are other ways of testing things that don't take a chance on severely burning someone.

I've done it before. It;s not too bad. It's easily avoidable. My radiator cap has a pressure release. So if I pull the tab on it and the coolant goes into my reservoir and I can check the boiling there.
 
I've done it before. It;s not too bad. It's easily avoidable. My radiator cap has a pressure release. So if I pull the tab on it and the coolant goes into my reservoir and I can check the boiling there.

Yes, I've done it before as well. But to recommend it to a stranger is an unnecessary risk. Some 15 year-old kid could search threads, read this, and then get scalded. Taking temperature readings with a precision instrument is about 100 times better.

Pressure release caps are nice, but not everyone uses them (I don't like them). Removing a cap without a release can be much more dangerous. I never even saw a mention of pressure-release caps till now.
 
Yes, I've done it before as well. But to recommend it to a stranger is an unnecessary risk. Some 15 year-old kid could search threads, read this, and then get scalded. Taking temperature readings with a precision instrument is about 100 times better.

Pressure release caps are nice, but not everyone uses them (I don't like them). Removing a cap without a release can be much more dangerous. I never even saw a mention of pressure-release caps till now.

Why don't you use pressure release caps? I never thought of it until now, but I have an unused Mr. Gasket Radiator Cap with Thermostat on it.
 
So it has nothing to do with them possibly failing to hold pressure easier than non pressure release caps?



A cap's main purpose is to hold and vent pressure with some kind of reliability, thus that would definitely fall into the reliability category for me. ;)

I don't have as much confidence in them as non-vented caps. Just a personal preference and opinion.
 
A cap's main purpose is to hold and vent pressure with some kind of reliability, thus that would definitely fall into the reliability category for me. ;)

I don't have as much confidence in them as non-vented caps. Just a personal preference and opinion.

Sounds legitimate to opinion to me. The other cap I have doesn't have a pressure release.
 
Yes, I've done it before as well. But to recommend it to a stranger is an unnecessary risk. Some 15 year-old kid could search threads, read this, and then get scalded. Taking temperature readings with a precision instrument is about 100 times better.
if someone gets burned they deserve to get burned cause they're a dumbass, in fact, it'd be a good lesson. Its common sense not to use just your hand to remove the cap.