where to install gauges..
- Thread starter _MATiC
- Start date
bad pic but u get the idea
autometer clock pod. i tapped into the stock wiring for the factory clock, really easy if you have a test light
stprorolla49
Active Member
the directions are actually quite helpful....trust me....im not great with wiring and i have little experience and i did the whole install in about 1.5 hrs.............good luck and heres a pic for ya......
94_Teal_GT
Founding Member
The water temp sensor unit goes in place of the stock unit. The stock sensor is located at the very front of the lower intake manifold on the driver's side, just behind the coil. It has 1 wire(red I think) attached to it and a wire bundle running next to it.
The stock oil pressure sensor is located to the left of the oil filter. It's alot easier to install your brass fittings if you remove the filter(more working room). You just unscrew the factory oil pressure sensor(It's an odd size/shape, I happened to have a oil pressure sending unit socket).
Install the correct fitting into the block(threaded on both ends). Install the fitting that fits the end sticking out of the block on the nylon tube, next install 1 of the crush fittings(small and just slide onto the nylon) on the tube(using the measurement from your instructions, mine was 1/8"). Thread that fitting onto the block fitting(while holding the nylon tubing), tighten but DON'T REEF on it, it's only brass. Rout the nylon tubing away from the headers!!! At the suggestion of HISSIN50(thanks buddy
), I put the nylon tube into a length of vacuum line to protect it in the engine compartment, from chaffing, keeps it from trying to recoil itself, and hides the line. Depending on how long the nylon tubing is, you may have to drill a hole in the firewall to run it through, if you have an automatic you can use the grommet about the throttle cable. Once you've routed the line, trim the line on the gauge side and install the brass fitting on the line then the crush fitting, attach it to the gauge. Run your lighting wires, re-install the filter, fire it up and check for leaks, before you install the pod. If you don't you could end up with oil in the passenger compartment or all over the engine compartment 
:EDIT: Make sure you don't crease that nylon tubing while installing it, be very gentle with it.
Hope that helps
The stock oil pressure sensor is located to the left of the oil filter. It's alot easier to install your brass fittings if you remove the filter(more working room). You just unscrew the factory oil pressure sensor(It's an odd size/shape, I happened to have a oil pressure sending unit socket).
Install the correct fitting into the block(threaded on both ends). Install the fitting that fits the end sticking out of the block on the nylon tube, next install 1 of the crush fittings(small and just slide onto the nylon) on the tube(using the measurement from your instructions, mine was 1/8"). Thread that fitting onto the block fitting(while holding the nylon tubing), tighten but DON'T REEF on it, it's only brass. Rout the nylon tubing away from the headers!!! At the suggestion of HISSIN50(thanks buddy
), I put the nylon tube into a length of vacuum line to protect it in the engine compartment, from chaffing, keeps it from trying to recoil itself, and hides the line. Depending on how long the nylon tubing is, you may have to drill a hole in the firewall to run it through, if you have an automatic you can use the grommet about the throttle cable. Once you've routed the line, trim the line on the gauge side and install the brass fitting on the line then the crush fitting, attach it to the gauge. Run your lighting wires, re-install the filter, fire it up and check for leaks, before you install the pod. If you don't you could end up with oil in the passenger compartment or all over the engine compartment :EDIT: Make sure you don't crease that nylon tubing while installing it, be very gentle with it.
Hope that helps
if you wanted to retain your stock temp gauge in the dash you can buy a cheap autozone water neck for $10 (comes tapped for aftermarket sender) then you just run your wire to it_MATiC said:
also if you go with this its a good idea to paint it since its cast and will rust
LoudToy958
Member
_MATiC said:thanks alot guys..i got the water temp gauge in and my car is running hot..it reads at 210 degrees, when i have a new radiator, new 180 t-stat, new water pump..maybe i need some oil or fix this stupid timing?
That is not really too hot. The factory fan setting is set pretty high. I think 214 or something like that. Someone might know for sure. You need to get a chip, or a manual fan switch to keep your car cooler. Even though you have a 180 T stat, it just opens earlier. The coolant still gets hot until the fan comes on(at the factory setting). Get your fan to come on at 184ish, and you will see a ruduction in temp. An oil cooler can help delay the heating effects as well.
As far as the oil pres gauge, I would suggest spending the extra cash and geting the Stainless braided line. Just my opinion. Factory oil sender is up near the oil filter. Search the forums, I have seen a pic of both installed. Check out the link in my sig, go to the page with the gauges, all the way at the bottom you will see a part I had made out of a Fox oil sender log. It is for the factory sender, and a aftermarket mech oil temp.
well put 94TT
give more info on the temps you see. is this with the A/C off? if so, the low speed fan wont come on till ~208*F, so that sounds about right. a manual low and high speed fan switch can help out.
if it runs hot at speed, make sure the air deflector under the front bumper is there. it helps a bit (12 bucks at the dealer for me; same price from LRS).
i love the lame timing and fuel curves too.
good luck.
give more info on the temps you see. is this with the A/C off? if so, the low speed fan wont come on till ~208*F, so that sounds about right. a manual low and high speed fan switch can help out.
if it runs hot at speed, make sure the air deflector under the front bumper is there. it helps a bit (12 bucks at the dealer for me; same price from LRS).
i love the lame timing and fuel curves too.
good luck.
LoudToy958
Member
_MATiC said:
It is still gonna get just as hot, it will just take a little longer. The problem is not with the T stat, it is with the fan turning on and off at the wrong temps. Lots of people will say 160* is too cold if your car runs at that temp. The engine needs to run at certain temps for many reasons. I have a chip that kicks my fan on at 184*. My car never goes over 185. Not even in traffic. Downside is, my fan is on quite a bit, so there is a lot of draw on the electrical system. Keep that in mind. You temps are not abnormal considering you stock fan settings.
