Wiring these electric fans is confusing..

[James V]

Hi again. Working on my 93 notch. I bought the electric SVE fan kit from LMR and I got everything in and now I just have to wire the fans. I cant seem to find the yellow AC wire and the green wire they are referring to in the video

The previous owner had Ebay electric fans in, that I removed. I thought this yellow wire was the AC wire but then I realized it looks like he spliced it to this blue connector which leads to this connection in the picture below. I'm sort of lost. Any help would be appreciated!

6:09 - the yellow to green wire, I cant find the green


View: https://youtu.be/Uu16zP9at9I

 

[STEVE PATTON]

look closely at video,I think the wires from his plug on compressor are yellow & green. mine are blk/yel &blk/gn .yours may be blk/yel.Mine is a 90

 

[FastDriver]

I'm pretty terrible with electrical stuff so I'll stay away from that question and answer my own, lol. This kit purportedly flows 1866 CFM. This is about half of what I'd be comfortable running. Without personal experience, I'm open others weighing in on this particular kit, but I think you should return this kit and get a better setup. That would include Mark VIII and countour factory setups from a junkyard (or online), which will be considerably cheaper, either way.

Otherwise, I strongly suspect your car is going to get too hot at idle during warm summer days (especially when using the a/c). Take it from a guy who tried the "Black Magic" fan approach back in the day. Yeah, that kit ended up in my garbage can.

Good luck!

 

[Mustang5L5]

I would remove the wires the previous owner used. Although I'm sure it will be ok, I wouldn't tap into the coil wire.

A better wire to use for e fans is the power wire on the low fluid sensor at the front of the car near the battery. It will be ignition on. If you want to run a manual override switch, you can route the ground back to the cabin, and install a toggle and ground the other sis on chassis. That will activate your relay and allow you to manually turn it off when doing ignition on engine off work on the car.

Then run your power fees direct from battery or solenoid to the coil, and then on to the fan

 

[Blown88GT]

I'm pretty terrible with electrical stuff so I'll stay away from that question and answer my own, lol. This kit purportedly flows 1866 CFM. This is about half of what I'd be comfortable running. Without personal experience, I'm open others weighing in on this particular kit, but I think you should return this kit and get a better setup. That would include Mark VIII and countour factory setups from a junkyard (or online), which will be considerably cheaper, either way.

Otherwise, I strongly suspect your car is going to get too hot at idle during warm summer days (especially when using the a/c). Take it from a guy who tried the "Black Magic" fan approach back in the day. Yeah, that kit ended up in my garbage can.

Good luck!

For someone who says he is terrible with electric stuff, you got this 100% correct.
Any fan with straight blades is junk. Makes a lot of noise, flows little.
At least, LMR is honest about the specs.
They shouldn't even be selling this.

• 7 Amp Continuous Draw Per Fan
• Flow over 1866CFM Combined

Look for something greater than 3000 cfm which will equate to 30+ amps.

 

[James V]

I'm pretty terrible with electrical stuff so I'll stay away from that question and answer my own, lol. This kit purportedly flows 1866 CFM. This is about half of what I'd be comfortable running. Without personal experience, I'm open others weighing in on this particular kit, but I think you should return this kit and get a better setup. That would include Mark VIII and countour factory setups from a junkyard (or online), which will be considerably cheaper, either way.

Otherwise, I strongly suspect your car is going to get too hot at idle during warm summer days (especially when using the a/c). Take it from a guy who tried the "Black Magic" fan approach back in the day. Yeah, that kit ended up in my garbage can.

Good luck!

Thanks for the advice. I did hear about how it flows a lower CFM and at the same time I saw a lot of reviews saying it works fine. I did debate possibly getting another set of fans in the future though if I start adding more power to the engine. Ill end up using these until they dont work properly. The fans came in a kit that also came with a radiator, hoses, thermostat, and overflow. Oh and my only problem with the factory fans is I like the sleek look of the electric ones lol

 

[James V]

I would remove the wires the previous owner used. Although I'm sure it will be ok, I wouldn't tap into the coil wire.

A better wire to use for e fans is the power wire on the low fluid sensor at the front of the car near the battery. It will be ignition on. If you want to run a manual override switch, you can route the ground back to the cabin, and install a toggle and ground the other sis on chassis. That will activate your relay and allow you to manually turn it off when doing ignition on engine off work on the car.

Then run your power fees direct from battery or solenoid to the coil, and then on to the fan

So it looks like the previous owner did splice a wire into the coil connector (as shown in pic above) the only problem is I have no idea what I'm doing. The only 2 wires I have left to wire are the green wire and the yellow wire from the fan controller harness. I dont know what wire to connect them to. Also you said wire the low fluid sensor, how do I know know what wire to connect to it?

 

[James V]

For someone who says he is terrible with electric stuff, you got this 100% correct.
Any fan with straight blades is junk. Makes a lot of noise, flows little.
At least, LMR is honest about the specs.
They shouldn't even be selling this.

• 7 Amp Continuous Draw Per Fan
• Flow over 1866CFM Combined

Look for something greater than 3000 cfm which will equate to 30+ amps.

Yeah I probably shouldn't have bought the kit. I just liked how it included everything since I'm new to all of this it seemed convenient. But I'll end up using the fans until/if they dont work.

 

[James V]

I would remove the wires the previous owner used. Although I'm sure it will be ok, I wouldn't tap into the coil wire.

A better wire to use for e fans is the power wire on the low fluid sensor at the front of the car near the battery. It will be ignition on. If you want to run a manual override switch, you can route the ground back to the cabin, and install a toggle and ground the other sis on chassis. That will activate your relay and allow you to manually turn it off when doing ignition on engine off work on the car.

Then run your power fees direct from battery or solenoid to the coil, and then on to the fan

I did some more research and have another couple questions. I think I'm starting to understand the wiring better.

So how do I know what wire is a 12 volt ignition source that doesnt constantly give power? And now I see it says the green wire is optional, I dont think my AC clutch works anyway.

Edit: now I'm starting to piece it together. You said wire the yellow wire on my harness to the power wire on the low fluid sensor (which I have to find). How do I know which of the wires on it is the power wire?

 

[General karthief]

If you are talking about the low coolant level sensor it is plugged into the cap on the coolant recovery tank. I have mine wired from the positive side of the solenoid to a circuit breaker, my fan is self contained though.

 

[James V]

If you are talking about the low coolant level sensor it is plugged into the cap on the coolant recovery tank. I have mine wired from the positive side of the solenoid to a circuit breaker, my fan is self contained though.

So maybe I dont have a sensor than since i have an aftermarket tank now and there was no sensor connection. Is there something else I can wire it to?

 

[General karthief]

The washer fluid pump? You should have the wiring for the coolant level stuffed around there someplace around the battery area.

 

[James V]

The washer fluid pump? You should have the wiring for the coolant level stuffed around there someplace around the battery area.

I think the washer fluid stuff was all removed too but I'll check later.

 

[Blown88GT]

jrichker said:
...There is a whole world full of people who can only spell electricity on a good day. LMR evidently is one of those groups of people...


If I can find the pic that used to be on my website. I've seen it used in magazine articles.
I would say, "that looks familiar".
I created it 20+ years ago.
Here you go.
The temp switch was a dedicated sensor that screws into the t-stat housing.

 

[James V]

jrichker said:
...There is a whole world full of people who can only spell electricity on a good day. LMR evidently is one of those groups of people...


If I can find the pic that used to be on my website. I've seen it used in magazine articles.
I would say, "that looks familiar".
I created it 20+ years ago.
Here you go.
The temp switch was a dedicated sensor that screws into the t-stat housing.

Thanks. I think I'm understanding it way better now. Basically I can connect the power cable to any 12 volt source that is hot when ignition is on. But since my ac doesnt work I dont need the override.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Edit: now I'm starting to piece it together. You said wire the yellow wire on my harness to the power wire on the low fluid sensor (which I have to find). How do I know which of the wires on it is the power wire?

Do you have a digital multimeter? Even a cheapo harbor freight one will be fine to use for 12V automotive work.

 

[James V]

Do you have a digital multimeter? Even a cheapo harbor freight one will be fine to use for 12V automotive work.

Yep I just got one

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yep I just got one

Prob one of the wires that you want to check in the connector end, and touch the other end to chassis ground (or battery neg) and see if there's power with key on.


I can probably dig out the color wire if I remember to check my wiring diagrams later tonight. I also tend to prefer to solder my connections. Those blue clip on connectors are notorious for making bad connections or loosening up.

EDIT: red with yellow stripe

 

[Blown88GT]

Thanks. I think I'm understanding it way better now. Basically I can connect the power cable to any 12 volt source that is hot when ignition is on. But since my ac doesnt work I dont need the override.

Correct.

It's shown on the drawing: Red/Light Green
It's near the starter relay.

 

[James V]

Prob one of the wires that you want to check in the connector end, and touch the other end to chassis ground (or battery neg) and see if there's power with key on.


I can probably dig out the color wire if I remember to check my wiring diagrams later tonight. I also tend to prefer to solder my connections. Those blue clip on connectors are notorious for making bad connections or loosening up.

EDIT: red with yellow stripe

Thanks for the help. Since I dont have any way to solder the wires, I've been using the weatherproof connectors and heat sealing them.