• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Wiring these electric fans is confusing..

  • Thread starter Thread starter James V
  • Start date Start date Feb 10, 2019
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 10, 2019
#1
  • Feb 10, 2019
  • #1
Hi again. Working on my 93 notch. I bought the electric SVE fan kit from LMR and I got everything in and now I just have to wire the fans. I cant seem to find the yellow AC wire and the green wire they are referring to in the video

The previous owner had Ebay electric fans in, that I removed. I thought this yellow wire was the AC wire but then I realized it looks like he spliced it to this blue connector which leads to this connection in the picture below. I'm sort of lost. Any help would be appreciated!



6:09 - the yellow to green wire, I cant find the green

View: https://youtu.be/Uu16zP9at9I
 

STEVE PATTON

I smell a conspiracy
Jan 6, 2019
201
89
53
ohio
Feb 10, 2019
#2
  • Feb 10, 2019
  • #2
look closely at video,I think the wires from his plug on compressor are yellow & green. mine are blk/yel &blk/gn .yours may be blk/yel.Mine is a 90
 
Reactions: James V

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
6,089
2,695
224
Vass, NC
Feb 10, 2019
#3
  • Feb 10, 2019
  • #3
I'm pretty terrible with electrical stuff so I'll stay away from that question and answer my own, lol. This kit purportedly flows 1866 CFM. This is about half of what I'd be comfortable running. Without personal experience, I'm open others weighing in on this particular kit, but I think you should return this kit and get a better setup. That would include Mark VIII and countour factory setups from a junkyard (or online), which will be considerably cheaper, either way.

Otherwise, I strongly suspect your car is going to get too hot at idle during warm summer days (especially when using the a/c). Take it from a guy who tried the "Black Magic" fan approach back in the day. Yeah, that kit ended up in my garbage can.

Good luck!
 
Last edited: Feb 10, 2019
Reactions: James V and Blown88GT

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,252
17,937
224
Massachusetts
Feb 10, 2019
#4
  • Feb 10, 2019
  • #4
I would remove the wires the previous owner used. Although I'm sure it will be ok, I wouldn't tap into the coil wire.

A better wire to use for e fans is the power wire on the low fluid sensor at the front of the car near the battery. It will be ignition on. If you want to run a manual override switch, you can route the ground back to the cabin, and install a toggle and ground the other sis on chassis. That will activate your relay and allow you to manually turn it off when doing ignition on engine off work on the car.

Then run your power fees direct from battery or solenoid to the coil, and then on to the fan
 
Reactions: Shakerhood and James V

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
2,283
524
164
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Feb 11, 2019
#5
  • Feb 11, 2019
  • #5
FastDriver said:
I'm pretty terrible with electrical stuff so I'll stay away from that question and answer my own, lol. This kit purportedly flows 1866 CFM. This is about half of what I'd be comfortable running. Without personal experience, I'm open others weighing in on this particular kit, but I think you should return this kit and get a better setup. That would include Mark VIII and countour factory setups from a junkyard (or online), which will be considerably cheaper, either way.

Otherwise, I strongly suspect your car is going to get too hot at idle during warm summer days (especially when using the a/c). Take it from a guy who tried the "Black Magic" fan approach back in the day. Yeah, that kit ended up in my garbage can.

Good luck!
Click to expand...
For someone who says he is terrible with electric stuff, you got this 100% correct.
Any fan with straight blades is junk. Makes a lot of noise, flows little.
At least, LMR is honest about the specs.
They shouldn't even be selling this.
  • 7 Amp Continuous Draw Per Fan
  • Flow over 1866CFM Combined
Look for something greater than 3000 cfm which will equate to 30+ amps.
 
Reactions: James V

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 12, 2019
#6
  • Feb 12, 2019
  • #6
FastDriver said:
I'm pretty terrible with electrical stuff so I'll stay away from that question and answer my own, lol. This kit purportedly flows 1866 CFM. This is about half of what I'd be comfortable running. Without personal experience, I'm open others weighing in on this particular kit, but I think you should return this kit and get a better setup. That would include Mark VIII and countour factory setups from a junkyard (or online), which will be considerably cheaper, either way.

Otherwise, I strongly suspect your car is going to get too hot at idle during warm summer days (especially when using the a/c). Take it from a guy who tried the "Black Magic" fan approach back in the day. Yeah, that kit ended up in my garbage can.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I did hear about how it flows a lower CFM and at the same time I saw a lot of reviews saying it works fine. I did debate possibly getting another set of fans in the future though if I start adding more power to the engine. Ill end up using these until they dont work properly. The fans came in a kit that also came with a radiator, hoses, thermostat, and overflow. Oh and my only problem with the factory fans is I like the sleek look of the electric ones lol
 

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 12, 2019
#7
  • Feb 12, 2019
  • #7
Mustang5L5 said:
I would remove the wires the previous owner used. Although I'm sure it will be ok, I wouldn't tap into the coil wire.

A better wire to use for e fans is the power wire on the low fluid sensor at the front of the car near the battery. It will be ignition on. If you want to run a manual override switch, you can route the ground back to the cabin, and install a toggle and ground the other sis on chassis. That will activate your relay and allow you to manually turn it off when doing ignition on engine off work on the car.

Then run your power fees direct from battery or solenoid to the coil, and then on to the fan
Click to expand...

So it looks like the previous owner did splice a wire into the coil connector (as shown in pic above) the only problem is I have no idea what I'm doing. The only 2 wires I have left to wire are the green wire and the yellow wire from the fan controller harness. I dont know what wire to connect them to. Also you said wire the low fluid sensor, how do I know know what wire to connect to it?
 

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 12, 2019
#8
  • Feb 12, 2019
  • #8
Blown88GT said:
For someone who says he is terrible with electric stuff, you got this 100% correct.
Any fan with straight blades is junk. Makes a lot of noise, flows little.
At least, LMR is honest about the specs.
They shouldn't even be selling this.
  • 7 Amp Continuous Draw Per Fan
  • Flow over 1866CFM Combined
Look for something greater than 3000 cfm which will equate to 30+ amps.
Click to expand...

Yeah I probably shouldn't have bought the kit. I just liked how it included everything since I'm new to all of this it seemed convenient. But I'll end up using the fans until/if they dont work.
 

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 12, 2019
#9
  • Feb 12, 2019
  • #9
Mustang5L5 said:
I would remove the wires the previous owner used. Although I'm sure it will be ok, I wouldn't tap into the coil wire.

A better wire to use for e fans is the power wire on the low fluid sensor at the front of the car near the battery. It will be ignition on. If you want to run a manual override switch, you can route the ground back to the cabin, and install a toggle and ground the other sis on chassis. That will activate your relay and allow you to manually turn it off when doing ignition on engine off work on the car.

Then run your power fees direct from battery or solenoid to the coil, and then on to the fan
Click to expand...

I did some more research and have another couple questions. I think I'm starting to understand the wiring better.


So how do I know what wire is a 12 volt ignition source that doesnt constantly give power? And now I see it says the green wire is optional, I dont think my AC clutch works anyway.

Edit: now I'm starting to piece it together. You said wire the yellow wire on my harness to the power wire on the low fluid sensor (which I have to find). How do I know which of the wires on it is the power wire?
 
Last edited: Feb 12, 2019

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,916
10,565
203
polk county florida
Feb 13, 2019
#10
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #10
If you are talking about the low coolant level sensor it is plugged into the cap on the coolant recovery tank. I have mine wired from the positive side of the solenoid to a circuit breaker, my fan is self contained though.
 
Reactions: James V

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 13, 2019
#11
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #11
General karthief said:
If you are talking about the low coolant level sensor it is plugged into the cap on the coolant recovery tank. I have mine wired from the positive side of the solenoid to a circuit breaker, my fan is self contained though.
Click to expand...

So maybe I dont have a sensor than since i have an aftermarket tank now and there was no sensor connection. Is there something else I can wire it to?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,916
10,565
203
polk county florida
Feb 13, 2019
#12
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #12
The washer fluid pump? You should have the wiring for the coolant level stuffed around there someplace around the battery area.
 
Reactions: James V

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 13, 2019
#13
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #13
General karthief said:
The washer fluid pump? You should have the wiring for the coolant level stuffed around there someplace around the battery area.
Click to expand...

I think the washer fluid stuff was all removed too but I'll check later.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
2,283
524
164
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Feb 13, 2019
#14
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #14
jrichker said:
...There is a whole world full of people who can only spell electricity on a good day. LMR evidently is one of those groups of people...


If I can find the pic that used to be on my website. I've seen it used in magazine articles.
I would say, "that looks familiar".
I created it 20+ years ago.
Here you go.
The temp switch was a dedicated sensor that screws into the t-stat housing.

 
Last edited: Feb 13, 2019
Reactions: James V

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 13, 2019
#15
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #15
Blown88GT said:
jrichker said:
...There is a whole world full of people who can only spell electricity on a good day. LMR evidently is one of those groups of people...


If I can find the pic that used to be on my website. I've seen it used in magazine articles.
I would say, "that looks familiar".
I created it 20+ years ago.
Here you go.
The temp switch was a dedicated sensor that screws into the t-stat housing.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I think I'm understanding it way better now. Basically I can connect the power cable to any 12 volt source that is hot when ignition is on. But since my ac doesnt work I dont need the override.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,252
17,937
224
Massachusetts
Feb 13, 2019
#16
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #16
James V said:
Edit: now I'm starting to piece it together. You said wire the yellow wire on my harness to the power wire on the low fluid sensor (which I have to find). How do I know which of the wires on it is the power wire?
Click to expand...

Do you have a digital multimeter? Even a cheapo harbor freight one will be fine to use for 12V automotive work.
 
Reactions: James V

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 13, 2019
#17
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #17
Mustang5L5 said:
Do you have a digital multimeter? Even a cheapo harbor freight one will be fine to use for 12V automotive work.
Click to expand...

Yep I just got one
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,252
17,937
224
Massachusetts
Feb 13, 2019
#18
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #18
James V said:
Yep I just got one
Click to expand...

Prob one of the wires that you want to check in the connector end, and touch the other end to chassis ground (or battery neg) and see if there's power with key on.


I can probably dig out the color wire if I remember to check my wiring diagrams later tonight. I also tend to prefer to solder my connections. Those blue clip on connectors are notorious for making bad connections or loosening up.

EDIT: red with yellow stripe
 
Last edited: Feb 13, 2019
Reactions: James V

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
2,283
524
164
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Feb 13, 2019
#19
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #19
James V said:
Thanks. I think I'm understanding it way better now. Basically I can connect the power cable to any 12 volt source that is hot when ignition is on. But since my ac doesnt work I dont need the override.
Click to expand...
Correct.

It's shown on the drawing: Red/Light Green
It's near the starter relay.
 
Reactions: James V

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 13, 2019
#20
  • Feb 13, 2019
  • #20
Mustang5L5 said:
Prob one of the wires that you want to check in the connector end, and touch the other end to chassis ground (or battery neg) and see if there's power with key on.


I can probably dig out the color wire if I remember to check my wiring diagrams later tonight. I also tend to prefer to solder my connections. Those blue clip on connectors are notorious for making bad connections or loosening up.

EDIT: red with yellow stripe
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. Since I dont have any way to solder the wires, I've been using the weatherproof connectors and heat sealing them.
 
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Resolved Electric fans
  • Serg.Xof
  • Jul 14, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
5
Views
350
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jul 22, 2025
AeroCoupe
Progress Thread 93 LX father son project
  • ZAM93LX
  • Oct 26, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2
Replies
24
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Dec 3, 2025
Scrapla347
G
2006 Mustang GT o2 Sensor Wiring Issue Car Bogging/Choking
  • GCantero93
  • Sep 5, 2025
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech
Replies
4
Views
999
2005 - 2009 Specific Tech Sep 6, 2025
Noobz347
Progress Thread Giving an abandoned 88 GT project a new chance at life
  • jaketractor
  • Jan 9, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
  • 2
Replies
27
Views
2K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jul 20, 2025
Noobz347
A
Quick questions, hvac and in dash wiring.
  • a1machinista1
  • Sep 30, 2023
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Oct 1, 2023
limp
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?