95BlueStallion said:

Do it to the New Edge!

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Ha.. Kids won't let me. They really enjoy driving in that car with the top down. It would bum them out if i turned it into a project.

I know this thread dates back a few years, but hoping someone takes a look and is able to respond!

My brother gave me his old 2005 Ford Mustang V6 with the X-Charger installed. Unfortunately, it's been sitting on his driveway for years. I'm trying to fix it up and get the car back in running condition, but I need to pass an emissions test first (I live in GA). When I plug in my OBDII, it says my Catalyst, O2 sensor heater, EGR system and O2 sensor are "not ready". After logging over 800 miles trying to complete a drive cycle, I came across many threads in various forums detailing how it could be a tuning issue.

My question is does anyone know of anyone who works on X-Charger tunes now? It looks like Explorer Express is no longer in business. I don't know who to reach out to or who can help with this.

General karthief said:

8hp, 15 to 20hp no PS pump

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I'm going to bypass the power steering pump with the short belt, so I was hoping for a cumulative 15 rwhp / 10 rwtq.

Techmotion did a dyno test bypassing the power steering pump and it was worth 6 rwhp / 6 rwtq, so we'll see what I can pull out of it.

Potomus Pete said:

I still never see Mustang ll's in real time.

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Not a one beside mine.
Saw a red ’67 coupe yesterday.

Potomus Pete said:

Welcome aboard...You know that hood would look awsome Grabber Blue. Love that color

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I was tossing the idea of having it painted with strips. White or black, not sure though.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Clean the threads under the car with a wire brush, spray with Liquid Wrench, double nuts on the top side and back them out.

I have an early 65 fastback, looking for a measurement of the fold down seat support from the floor to top of hump, IM going to make a pair out of stainless but lost mine

Lots of times, stumble and surging are signs of a vacuum leak.

Was my moms car that she sold in 95/96... tried buying it for 20+ years and when we bought the farm 3 houses down they gave it to me

Turns out, it was the injectors. I took the “pencil thin” injectors out and put the factory Bosch ones back in. Started RIGHT up.

I sincerely thank everyone who helped. It’s been a long run, so far. And the work is just getting started.

American Racing lists the 4x4.25/4x108 in the 15x7 but it appears, at least everywhere I've looked, lists them as out of stock. I wonder if you can even still order them.... It might be a good idea to stop in to a brick and mortar dealer and ask about them, you may still be able to special order them through a dealer whereas you might not have any luck just looking online.

They're not hoses or wires like you mentioned, but some types of rubber will break down under constant oil exposure. Don't know if they are made of the type of rubber that is adversely affected by oil, but a few underhood pieces that come to mind are strut mount isolators, sway bar bushings and motor mounts.

AeroCoupe said:

That answer is they are not. Only the rear brakes are reduced in pressure. The line going into the combination valve is used by the valve if the front brake pressure is lower than the rear brake pressure. The shuttle valve will then move and put full brake pressure to the rear brakes. This was in case of a leak or issue with the front brake pressure. There are baffles in the MC reservoir that will keep fluid on rear brakes if the fronts develop a leak.

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I can't tell you how much I appreciate your explanation. TY

Welllll, looky what showed up on my front porch today...
My fuel and vent line for an 85 mustang GT....
These things really are works of art.. Lets hope they fit..
PIctures of bent for shipping and unbent on my driveway...

Looks good.....No , looks great.

Essn95 said:

108k I believe
Have about 6k miles on the build now

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oh gotcha cool

Confirmed. Speedometer and odometer are spot on. Everything works as intended, just the mileage is off.

Ill probably go back to method 1 to keep my odometer record intact and just live with the speedometer being off by a factor of 1.06

limp said:

OK, I follow you now.... Not good......

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Yeah it sucks but I got a full GT40 "parts" motor with 120k miles for $200 so I'm ok with that. I have another junkyard engine coming in the next day or two. It's out of a '99 Moutaineer and supposedly has 130k miles. Hopefully this one is in better shape. I plan on putting my F cam in it, changing the valve springs, oil pan gasket, rear main gasket and sticking it in the car.

Surely your State has a provision for a waiver.
I dealt with the same thing with my 08' Bullitt
I would just go get a waiver every two years. Cost me about $250 each time.
Was a lot easier than actually getting the car to pass.

Mustang5L5 said:

A 2003 GT should have a 4-pin 12V plug under the driver's seat as all GT's came with an 6-way power seat track and adjustable lumbar on the driver's side.

On the 4-pin plug are two large gauge wires, and 2 smaller wires. The 2 small ones are for the seat belt minder that connects to the driver's side seat belt buckle. The two larger wires are 12V for the power seat track.

You can use the 12V there to supply power to both driver's and passenger seat.

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Thank you. I will look for those wires this weekend when I repalce the seats.

Ended up finding a used Edelbrock Lower and swapped the baffle over. If you need a baffle-less edelbrock lower for a Performer 5.0 or Performer RPM EFI intake, hit me up.

HELP!! I installed the TransGo shift kit to the letter, according to the instructions. While it solved the stalling when put in gear problem, now it's very soft and slow going into reverse when cold. Once warm, I can't feel it go into reverse at all, but apparently it does shift since it moves back when I apply throttle, but it slips a bit. Before I had the stalling problem, it shifted into reverse very firmly. A bit too firmly, in fact. I called TransGo tech support, but they had no answer. The tech guy suggested changing the TransGo spring on the reverse servo back to the original spring to see if that would help. Of course, that would require draining all the fluid and dropping the pan again, which I really don't want to do without knowing for sure that is the problem. In addition, the Mustang is my only working car right now because my other vehicle has developed a severe oil leak, to the tune of over a quart of oil when I take my wife to work, a 12-mile round trip. I believe it's the timing cover gasket, which is a lot of work to change. Any ideas?

deserthoundLX said:

gulator Solenoid, and t

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General karthief said:

Here is a 'systems check list' that should get you straightened out:

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 05 July 2022 to add rough idle when cold and smooth idle when up to normal operating temperature. See the EGR tech information, section #15 for more help. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank...

www.stangnet.com

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Thank you, ive been going through that and its definetely been helpful. I shouldve added that as well as i also recently replaced the o2 sensors to get rid of codes 41 and 91. im still not really grasping why the car would idle better with the fpr receiving no vacuum while the egr does when it should be the opposite. Thank you for your help i will keep digging into the checklist

I know this is an old post. I am an older women who figures maybe I'll tell you if you top gets stuck how to move it. I put in a used top with the frame myself. Except I needed help lifting lol. OK if you remove the pistons the top will move. I did this because I had a newer set. I moved the the top like nothing. So those pistons or cylinders keep the pressure and its the brick wall that can't move. Lol