AeroCoupe said:

That answer is they are not. Only the rear brakes are reduced in pressure. The line going into the combination valve is used by the valve if the front brake pressure is lower than the rear brake pressure. The shuttle valve will then move and put full brake pressure to the rear brakes. This was in case of a leak or issue with the front brake pressure. There are baffles in the MC reservoir that will keep fluid on rear brakes if the fronts develop a leak.

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I can't tell you how much I appreciate your explanation. TY

Welllll, looky what showed up on my front porch today...
My fuel and vent line for an 85 mustang GT....
These things really are works of art.. Lets hope they fit..
PIctures of bent for shipping and unbent on my driveway...

Looks good.....No , looks great.

Essn95 said:

108k I believe
Have about 6k miles on the build now

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oh gotcha cool

Confirmed. Speedometer and odometer are spot on. Everything works as intended, just the mileage is off.

Ill probably go back to method 1 to keep my odometer record intact and just live with the speedometer being off by a factor of 1.06

limp said:

OK, I follow you now.... Not good......

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Yeah it sucks but I got a full GT40 "parts" motor with 120k miles for $200 so I'm ok with that. I have another junkyard engine coming in the next day or two. It's out of a '99 Moutaineer and supposedly has 130k miles. Hopefully this one is in better shape. I plan on putting my F cam in it, changing the valve springs, oil pan gasket, rear main gasket and sticking it in the car.

Surely your State has a provision for a waiver.
I dealt with the same thing with my 08' Bullitt
I would just go get a waiver every two years. Cost me about $250 each time.
Was a lot easier than actually getting the car to pass.

Mustang5L5 said:

A 2003 GT should have a 4-pin 12V plug under the driver's seat as all GT's came with an 6-way power seat track and adjustable lumbar on the driver's side.

On the 4-pin plug are two large gauge wires, and 2 smaller wires. The 2 small ones are for the seat belt minder that connects to the driver's side seat belt buckle. The two larger wires are 12V for the power seat track.

You can use the 12V there to supply power to both driver's and passenger seat.

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Thank you. I will look for those wires this weekend when I repalce the seats.

Ended up finding a used Edelbrock Lower and swapped the baffle over. If you need a baffle-less edelbrock lower for a Performer 5.0 or Performer RPM EFI intake, hit me up.

HELP!! I installed the TransGo shift kit to the letter, according to the instructions. While it solved the stalling when put in gear problem, now it's very soft and slow going into reverse when cold. Once warm, I can't feel it go into reverse at all, but apparently it does shift since it moves back when I apply throttle, but it slips a bit. Before I had the stalling problem, it shifted into reverse very firmly. A bit too firmly, in fact. I called TransGo tech support, but they had no answer. The tech guy suggested changing the TransGo spring on the reverse servo back to the original spring to see if that would help. Of course, that would require draining all the fluid and dropping the pan again, which I really don't want to do without knowing for sure that is the problem. In addition, the Mustang is my only working car right now because my other vehicle has developed a severe oil leak, to the tune of over a quart of oil when I take my wife to work, a 12-mile round trip. I believe it's the timing cover gasket, which is a lot of work to change. Any ideas?

deserthoundLX said:

gulator Solenoid, and t

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General karthief said:

Here is a 'systems check list' that should get you straightened out:

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 05 July 2022 to add rough idle when cold and smooth idle when up to normal operating temperature. See the EGR tech information, section #15 for more help. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank...

www.stangnet.com

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Thank you, ive been going through that and its definetely been helpful. I shouldve added that as well as i also recently replaced the o2 sensors to get rid of codes 41 and 91. im still not really grasping why the car would idle better with the fpr receiving no vacuum while the egr does when it should be the opposite. Thank you for your help i will keep digging into the checklist

I know this is an old post. I am an older women who figures maybe I'll tell you if you top gets stuck how to move it. I put in a used top with the frame myself. Except I needed help lifting lol. OK if you remove the pistons the top will move. I did this because I had a newer set. I moved the the top like nothing. So those pistons or cylinders keep the pressure and its the brick wall that can't move. Lol

Nice. I will take a look. Ty

Neat engine bay! No wonder even the rodents got attracted.

Not yet but is has been acting up for several thousand miles.

Hello everyone.

I drive a 02’ Z06 and could use some insight on an open-face helmet to use in SCCA autocross. The rules call out snell approved helmets required, yet at 6’ there is little headroom for a larger helmet. I also use the car as a daily driver and would like to keep a stock seat. Any comments are appreciated.

I bought these off a friend who converted his GT over to track usage. I do not know how much many miles were on it when removed. The part #s are:
(1) T407H FR3c 18W002 1A 18077-A 150821A
and
(2) T407H FR3c 18045 JF 1A18069-A 150818B

Have the shocks/struts and springs in Mission Viejo CA. You are welcome to come look at them. They do have a slight bit of surface rust but nothing a wire brush can't get rid of. They otherwise appear and feel to be in good working order.

$100 obo.

The stuff is all in Mission Viejo CA and for 2018-2023 GT 5.0 . Here are some pics

Doing some touch up on my step-sons 99 GT. Repainting the door and will blend it but have a question about sanding. I'm not planning on painting the whole door or quarter panel but have sanded both to 400 grit. Plan is to spray base on the touch up area then spray the whole door and quarter with clear. Will you tell the difference between the fresh paint that was not sanded and the original area that was sanded even after the clear is sprayed over it?

I was driving the car, about to turn to the house and then I heard a grinding noise and the car stopped and didn't want to go until 1hour later, it was like if the brakes got stuck
1998 mustang gt

Hello, please read the whole thread before posting because you will save your own and my time doing so.

347 / 302 with a T5 Tremec is vibrating very bad. 67 mustang
It vibrates when standing still and also in and out of gear, clutch in or out - SO ITS NOT THE DRIVESHAFT - Thanks!
I made 100% sure its not the headers and i have cut a lot into the TCI bellhousing to make room for them.


I have spent countless of hours trying to diagnose this and this is my last resort.

Its vibrating worst around 2200 rpm but in general more rpm = more vibration.
I have changed the engine because i had a 347 laying around and i know that thing did not vibrate. Also bought a brand new flywheel just because i had no idea if the old one was 28 or 50oz. I know my 347 is a 28oz engine because its freshly built - Also the harmonic balancer is new.
I removed the transmission again and started up the engine with the bellhousing and flywheel etc. on. - no vibration. I then go install the transmission again and the vibration comes back - then i was thinking its the transmission mount. Bought OEM style rubber trans mount and also rubber engine mounts - didnt help.
I removed the transmission again and installed everything without clutch pressure plate and clutch disc. still vibrating. I can visually see the input shaft is not even spinning but still vibrating. Then i am thinking now - it simply cant be the engine because i KNOW this engine was in my other mustang with a 28oz flexplate and no issue - but then again transmission not even spinning how would that be the cause? I then remove the transmission again and install new pilot bearing just in case the pilot bearing was "banging" on the input shaft when rotating and causing the vibration - but no luck for me.. I then removed the transmission again and i find some play in the input shaft. asked several transmission guys they say that the input shaft play is OK. I can feel the output shaft also moving the i move the input shaft. This is not the cause?



If anyone can please help me its highly appreciated.
Sorry for the bad english

Noobz347 said:

How to Perform Wheel Alignment by Yourself

For More Info visit us at: http://1aau.to/h/J9/In this video, 1A Auto shows you how to perform a wheel alignment by yourselfð§ List of tools used:⢠Complete ...

www.youtube.com

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Yes I’ve seen stuff like that. I don’t have the patience to do that lol $100.00 for a shop to do a little front toe n’ go for me. All good now

Where is the matching lower for the intake?

Thanks to all I think I got problem resolved! Car stays on afr ok I guess but it’s running like it was before. I redid the lower intake gasket and replaced pvc valve even thou the one on there was pretty new maybe it was defective who knows. Now I can start saving up for sve heads for my 92 gt and work on that car. No more rides to and from work. Thank you all for helping me I know I made so many posts but at the end it was worth it. I almost gave up on my car and that’s what keeps my mind busy. Again thanks

I agree with the above statement, classic case of getting what you pay for. If you have access to a press you'll need to use it to put the bends in it or else you'll have to go through the floor with the install.