- Oct 21, 2009
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What is a normal operating temp for a mild 306? My mods include....Built AOD w/External Cooler, 4.10s, TF Stage 1 Cam, TF Intake, Pro Comp Heads, Pacesetter Headers, BBK CAI, 10:1 Comp.
What's a normal operating temp for a mild 306?
- Thread starter 91StangGT5.0
- Start date
Tanus
New Member
if your "pro comp" heads are aluminum it should run cooler than stock. Even in 115deg weather mine never goes over 220
At 220*, I shut my car off and pull over. Now that I've got a good cooling system it doesn't happen anymore. That said, my corvette is bone-stock, all aluminum, and the fans don't even turn on until about 225*. So, at that temp you're ok, but I much prefer to see mine stay in teh 185-195* range. Any more than that, and I'll be trying to figure out how to improve the cooling system.
Remember, that no matter how built an engine is, it takes nearly the same amount of hp for idle and cruise speeds as any other engine. So you should be able to keep them around the same temps.
Chris
Remember, that no matter how built an engine is, it takes nearly the same amount of hp for idle and cruise speeds as any other engine. So you should be able to keep them around the same temps.
Chris
- Oct 21, 2009
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I've tried that route but the sensor doesn't bolt up right. The bulb is easily pushed farther down in the manifold and the nut that comes attached to the cable doesn't fit right, the threaded part is the right size but the part where you turn is the same size as the threaded part, meaning the thing will just turn until the thing is inside the hole.
- Oct 21, 2009
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Yea they are aluminum, but I've been shown by a infrared thermostat gun running about 230*, but that was when I found my a/c clutch was stuck on.
Tanus
New Member
I have the stock radiator and stock WP, but with the black magic fan (adj) I can have it run at whatever temp I set the fam to switch on. With that fan the car can sit at idle ltteraly all day long.
- Oct 21, 2009
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Tanus
New Member
I think the same one
your haveing cooling issues with that setup?
I notice you have 4 wires going into the fan, mine has 3 (has 5 terminals just like yours but only uses 3) is the fan wired to your water temp sensor? mines not, just adjusted at the top knob to turn on at 210degs. Only runs for like 30-60 seconds before shutting off at @ 190-200deg. are you sure its a "puller" fan and not a "pusher"?
your haveing cooling issues with that setup?
I notice you have 4 wires going into the fan, mine has 3 (has 5 terminals just like yours but only uses 3) is the fan wired to your water temp sensor? mines not, just adjusted at the top knob to turn on at 210degs. Only runs for like 30-60 seconds before shutting off at @ 190-200deg. are you sure its a "puller" fan and not a "pusher"?
Tanus
New Member
oh and if the system has a leak it wont have full pressure causing the boiling point to be much lower
- Oct 21, 2009
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Yea I put a rag in front of the a/c condenser and it sucks the rag to the condesner. Mine isn't wire like that anymore. I took the green wire out since the fan was installed when I bought the mustang and I found that the a/c clutch was staying on, so I took the wire out until I rewire it.
- Oct 21, 2009
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It's been pressure tested. It holds pressure. It doesn't overheat....well I dunno I drive 20-25 miles before it even gets to the "O" and I'm freaked out by then so I stop.
- Oct 21, 2009
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The fan has a temp sensor in the module on top where the wires plug in. I don't have it set. It's wired to run on start up and all the time.
The sender's bulb is sandwiched between the fitting on the gauge side of the bulb (that you have) and a 3/8" NPT fitting that screws into the intake itself. The latter fitting is one you generally need to supply yourself (AM supplies a fitting for SBC's but not SBF's). The AM number is 2370 IIRC, but you might be able to use an adapter from the parts store (for their own line of gauges).
- Oct 21, 2009
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I'm having a hard time picturing this.....so are there two fittings? one that's on the senders tubing and one that you buy that bolts on to the sender spot on the manifold so that the bulb is stuck between them so it move up nor down?
- Oct 21, 2009
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It's wierd, but you need another nut that's threaded on the inside and on the outside.
The bottom portion is threaded on the outside, and the top is on the inside.
Similar to this one, but i do NOT know if this is the exact fitting, it's been some time for me.
Auto Meter 2263 - Auto Meter Temperature Adapters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
You screw the fitting into the intake, then screw the fitting on the temp sensor into the one you just put on the intake.
The bottom portion is threaded on the outside, and the top is on the inside.
Similar to this one, but i do NOT know if this is the exact fitting, it's been some time for me.
Auto Meter 2263 - Auto Meter Temperature Adapters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
You screw the fitting into the intake, then screw the fitting on the temp sensor into the one you just put on the intake.
- Oct 21, 2009
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I have some of those type of fittings from my electric gauge, but none fit the mechanical gauge.
Here, part number is courtesy of hissing's post a few above.
Auto Meter 2370 - Auto Meter Temperature Adapters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Auto Meter 2370 - Auto Meter Temperature Adapters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
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