A Arms and springs

[mikestang63]

quote="Gearhead92, post: 8719519, member: 185203"]Yeah, I'm not gonna mess with the mounting location after doing a bit of research and talking with a couple people. But the sway bar in my car is old any how, and needs new bushings etc etc, so if I am re-doing almost my entire front suspension, I don't see why an extra $200 would hurt if I can swing it. Plus I can't get the sway bar bolts out of my old sway bar. So rather than cutting it, I'd rather put something new in.[/quote]


Too bad it's your DD or I would recommend going to a JY and pulling a set of A arms from a fox body. You can replace the ball joints ONCE on a stock A arm with the Moog ones, as they are press fit and expand the hole out. Throw the new ball joints, bushings on and a coat of paint and they are good as new. For the sway bar, you can just buy new sway bar bolts and either poly or rubber bushings and re use your old one.

 

[Gearhead92]

Yeah, that'd be nice. But the hole in my current A arm that's shot, won't even hold the new ball joint. I heard two very loud pops when taking the old on out and putting the new one in...then the new one just fell out.
I'd re-use my sway bar if I could get the old bolts out, but they are rusted in the sleeve and bar. I tried everything I could except cutting them out. I just need to get this done, so I'm ok with the extra $200 for the sway bar and needed hardware.

And does anyone have an opinion on the CCs and struts I picked out? Just curious.

 

[2000xp8]

Those choices in struts and CC plates are good.
I prefer koni red, but that's me.

Sawzall, heat, burn the bolt out of the sway bar, $200 could really be spent better than on a sway bar, especially in your current situation.

There are individual reman control arms on ebay, buy they one you need, ask for expedited shipping.

 

[MFE92]

It sucks that your swaybar is so fubar'd, because it all seems like a lot of effort to go to in order to keep some jacked-off A-arms and springs you can't be certain of how they'll sit when you're done anyway. That's why I recommend coilovers. Don't like the way it sits? Jack the car up and turn the collars a little. Don't like the spring rate? Get some different ones for $50, change them in 30 minutes without sacrificing any limbs, and sell your old ones for $50.

 

[2000xp8]

It sucks that your swaybar is so fubar'd, because it all seems like a lot of effort to go to in order to keep some jacked-off A-arms and springs you can't be certain of how they'll sit when you're done anyway. That's why I recommend coilovers. Don't like the way it sits? Jack the car up and turn the collars a little. Don't like the spring rate? Get some different ones for $50, change them in 30 minutes without sacrificing any limbs, and sell your old ones for $50.

Yup, it's damn near impossible to get a perfect height out of any arm or k with perches.

I was a coil over skeptic, I put them on because of weight issues with my mod swap and it was a great move.
It's no daily driver, so i don't know how long the coils last, but for my use adjusting the height properly was priceless.

 

[Gearhead92]

I just don't have any idea which way to go. I figured out I spend $40 bucks less if I do sway bar, CC plate, strut, the springs and arms I have,
OR
send arms back, get MM arms, MM coilovers, strange struts, and MM plates......

The other upside to the non coilover version.....
I can do it in pieces. I can just get the sway bar, put it together this weekend, hoping it works, and then put the CC plates and struts in another time.

BUT I need to do it all this weekend.....

I'm seriously sitting in front of my PC hitting my head on the desk thinking of which way to go.

 

[mikestang63]

Hey.. take a deep breath. First. how much is in your budget and what is your goal. IMO if you are going budget, get some used stock A arms from a JY or Ebay and press in new ball joints, get new sway bar links and bushings and call it a day. If you want to upgrade, just go with the coil over setup as MFE said and you will be much happier than those AJE POS parts. I would say MM makes the best but you get what you pay for. Unless you can get these parts local, you are going to pay for expedited shipping.

 

[Gearhead92]

Well I decided on the on coilover method. I'm hoping I don't have to say you told me so.

I have to learn on my own at some point. We shall see.

I'll keep you guys posted.
Thanks all for your advice and help.

 

[Gearhead92]

I took a death breath and said screw it. I'm going to for as much budget as I can, but the biggest issue is getting everything here by Friday.

I could have afforded the MM coilover way, would have only been 40 bucks more. BUT I would have had to get the struts, CC plates, coilover kit, and arms tonight....so that would have been all $1080, plus expedited shipping, sooo probably $1200.

I technically couldn't buy them right now....Don't get paid until this weekend.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I've installed springs a dozen or so times. The easiest method I've found is also the most dangerous...

So with that said, don't do this. I'm just telling a story here..not recommending this

Had a set of mach 1 springs that were about OEM height. So needless to say, unbolting the strut and dropping the A-arm did not work at all. What i did was buy a ton of hose clamps. Yes...hose clamps. I tried this dangerous method. I used about 8 per spring and just clamped two coils together. Didn't even need the compressor, just used a nutdriver and went around and slowly compressed it. After that point, i unbolted the strut, lowered the a-arm, and swapped the spring out easily. I jacked the arm back up, connected the strut and remove the bands with snips since there was no longer any tension on them. Literally the easiest spring swap i've done...but the most dangerous.

Really not recommending anyone try this, but I did not have the correct OTC spring compressor.

Yes...yell at me now

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I've installed springs a dozen or so times. The easiest method I've found is also the most dangerous...

So with that said, don't do this. I'm just telling a story here..not recommending this

Had a set of mach 1 springs that were about OEM height. So needless to say, unbolting the strut and dropping the A-arm did not work at all. What i did was buy a ton of hose clamps. Yes...hose clamps. I tried this dangerous method. I used about 8 per spring and just clamped two coils together. Didn't even need the compressor, just used a nutdriver and went around and slowly compressed it. After that point, i unbolted the strut, lowered the a-arm, and swapped the spring out easily. I jacked the arm back up, connected the strut and remove the bands with snips since there was no longer any tension on them. Literally the easiest spring swap i've done...but the most dangerous.

Really not recommending anyone try this, but I did not have the correct OTC spring compressor.

Yes...yell at me now

Ha, it doesn't sound any less dangerous than the chicken wire method someone described earlier. I had the wrong spring compressor on my springs when I went to put them in and they actually popped off a couple of times. Kinda scary when you consider how close your hands (and more importantly face) has to get to that spring to finish bolting them in. lol

 

[Sharad]

So I'm like half freakin out. This is my daily driver, and I'm in a big bind to get this back on the road. I have absolutely no idea what to do. haha......this is pathetic.

I can send these AJEs back, I have all the info to do so, with no issues from LateModelRestoration.

BUT

I can get these arms to fit according to LatemodelRestoration and AJE, if I put the car on the ground first before installing the sway bar bolt......That isn't how I was told by others or what my chilton's suggested, but after all, these are aftermarket.

In any case, I'd go ahead and buy a new sway bar, so I'd be purchasing new struts, sway bar, and CC plates. I can't find any other A Arms that have a spring cup, unless I get the bolt on ones...I don't like that idea too much. Plus I already have these.

I've been looking at these:
CC Plates: http://www.cjponyparts.com/maximum-motorsports-caster-camber-plates-black-1979-1989/p/CCP31/ $199.95, same price as AmericanMuscle, and $10 cheaper than latemodel
Struts: http://www.uprproducts.com/strange-mustang-adjustable-strut-87.html
I'm pretty set on those parts. I've heard good things about the Struts. My buddy ran them on his '03 Cobra.

Sway bars:
Either I go with MM and get http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/MM-MMFSB1/79-93-Mustang-Maximum-Motorsport-Front-Swaybar
Then get the STEEDA Rear adjustable sway bar later (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/ST-006470/79-04-Mustang-Steeda-Rear-Adjustable-Swaybar)
OR just get this now....(below) So Either spend 300 and save $70 on the Eibach kit, or go MM and Steeda and save $10 buck on the Eibach kit
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...tang-Eibach-Anti-Roll-Kit-Front-Rear-Sway-Bar

The more I think about it the more I like the MM route.

If not that, then I need to do some more searching to find other A Arms. I've decided to not go coil overs, because it is a daily driver, and I've heard coil overs clunk. Plus I already have springs.

That's a good plan. You'll like those struts from UPR. You could also save some money by going with UPR cc-plates. They work great as well. (and they're Made in America & Carry a Lifetime Guarantee)

Ha, it doesn't sound any less dangerous than the chicken wire method someone described earlier. I had the wrong spring compressor on my springs when I went to put them in and they actually popped off a couple of times. Kinda scary when you consider how close your hands (and more importantly face) has to get to that spring to finish bolting them in. lol

I don't play around when it comes to springs. I cut one of my fingers off from the last knuckle down when I was 17 by underestimating the stored force in the springs on my friend's Chevy. Lesson learned. (miraculously, it was reattached, but it was not a pleasant experience)

 

[Gearhead92]

That does sound pretty awful.

When I had the one side together I used a decently thick aluminum wire, that I wrapped about ten times for each set. And I had 6 different wraps. It didn't blow up, so I was thankful.

I have heard good things about the Strange shocks and struts. The guy who made the FOX500, he swapped an entire '07 GT500 into a fox body, he used Strange. So I said hey why not.

BUT I did just find a craigslist add, where a guy is selling a set of Tokico Illumina shocks and struts for $200 used. He said they have about 500 miles on them, but were on his car for a
year and a half just sitting. So that sitting part makes me wonder. It is at least worth a look for $200. The set is $570 on the MM site.

So what is the Tokico reputation? I'll be doing my own research as well.

That's a good plan. You'll like those struts from UPR. You could also save some money by going with UPR cc-plates. They work great as well. (and they're Made in America & Carry a Lifetime Guarantee)

Sharad, what is different between your warranty and MM's? They will replace the plate or bushing if it ever breaks while driving, they call it a limited lifetime warranty. What else would I need in the warranty? I'd only be saving $10 if I went with UPR's top priced CC plate versus the MM plate I'm looking at.

 

[MFE92]

There's a little more to it than warranty.

 

[Gearhead92]

haha I know. I'm going to spend the extra $10 to go to MM's. Since from everything I've heard, I won't have to ever think about having issues with them. Meaning I'll have piece of mind.

MFE92. what's your take on the Tokicos?

 

[MFE92]

Illumina's are pretty damn good, but I wouldn't necessarily say that used Illuminas where you don't know they're good are going to be any better than new Strange. I've never used Stranges and I've never seen them used in anger, but people seem to be having good success with them beyond just the straight-line applications they used to be known for.

 

[Gearhead92]

Yeah, that's about my take on it. It is at least worth a ride to go take a look at them, only a 25 min drive, worth the possibility of saving 200+ bucks. Is there anything to look for in used shocks/struts? Any tells for whether they are in good or bad shape? Other than exterior appearance, for whatever that is worth.

 

[MFE92]

Illuminas are gas charged, so they should expand back out slowly after you compress them. They should not show signs of leakage, and one sign of leakage is a collection of dark dust or dirt around the seal area at the top of the strut housing.

 

[Gearhead92]

Good to know. Thanks.

 

[mikestang63]

Good to know. Thanks.

For some reason, I remember reading that Strange struts or coilover shocks don't work with MM K member or A arms? MFE, you recall anything like that? I think it was the Strange shocks were larger tubes?