Hell, I understand Jim. I didn't mean to make light of your situation either. That just got my funny bone.
I got to replace my right frame rail on my blue car as well.
Can you do cutting and welding?
The Not A Build Thread, Build Thread - no carb yet but other stuff happening - Page 6
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I got to replace my right frame rail on my blue car as well.
Can you do cutting and welding?
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@Davedacarpainter and @95BlueStallion
I have an Eastwood 125 MIG welder with gas shielding, but your welds look perfect next to mine. I haven't had much practice, as I've gone through medical hell the last two years. What I think I see is that that part of the frame does nothing but support the sheet metal. I wouldn't think it would have to be dead nuts perfect. I would think I would have to disassemble the front sheet metal to get to everything, no? The LMR kit is something like $300. I have 0.30 wire in my welder and my gas pressure is about 40psi (if I remember correctly). The problem I seem to have is blowing holes through the sheet metal.
On a side note I had a long talk with Travis. He really talks fast and my Texas ears have a problem keeping up. The fuel pressure is at a steady 60psi; way too high. I have an Aerometer fuel pressure regulator that I'm taking to him today. That should fix the fuel pressure issue. Getting the exhaust right is another issue. I don't have anything to bend exhaust pipe, so I'll need to take it to Kenny's Muffler.
What I really need to do is to lay eyes on this thing again and try to figure out a game plan. My son wants to give me the 84 notch and use the 85 as a parts car, but I'm reluctant to do that on a number of fronts. Man, I thought my life would slow down when all I had to do is play with the grandkids.
Jim
I have an Eastwood 125 MIG welder with gas shielding, but your welds look perfect next to mine. I haven't had much practice, as I've gone through medical hell the last two years. What I think I see is that that part of the frame does nothing but support the sheet metal. I wouldn't think it would have to be dead nuts perfect. I would think I would have to disassemble the front sheet metal to get to everything, no? The LMR kit is something like $300. I have 0.30 wire in my welder and my gas pressure is about 40psi (if I remember correctly). The problem I seem to have is blowing holes through the sheet metal.
On a side note I had a long talk with Travis. He really talks fast and my Texas ears have a problem keeping up. The fuel pressure is at a steady 60psi; way too high. I have an Aerometer fuel pressure regulator that I'm taking to him today. That should fix the fuel pressure issue. Getting the exhaust right is another issue. I don't have anything to bend exhaust pipe, so I'll need to take it to Kenny's Muffler.
What I really need to do is to lay eyes on this thing again and try to figure out a game plan. My son wants to give me the 84 notch and use the 85 as a parts car, but I'm reluctant to do that on a number of fronts. Man, I thought my life would slow down when all I had to do is play with the grandkids.
Jim
Jim, you need to see this as a hobby that you enjoy tinkering with or this part will seem miserable.
You'll need to pull the engine to fix the rail.
Blow through is caused by having too hot of a setting for the thickness of metal you're welding. Play with scrap panels a little bit. Welds don't have to look perfect, that's why God created grinders!
No, not perfect, but pretty damn close though. Honestly, you can do it in your garage. Just measure, measure again, tack weld in place, measure one more time and you'll be fine.
@RaggedGT knows his welding, he can help,out here too.
You'll need to pull the engine to fix the rail.
Blow through is caused by having too hot of a setting for the thickness of metal you're welding. Play with scrap panels a little bit. Welds don't have to look perfect, that's why God created grinders!
No, not perfect, but pretty damn close though. Honestly, you can do it in your garage. Just measure, measure again, tack weld in place, measure one more time and you'll be fine.
@RaggedGT knows his welding, he can help,out here too.
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^Right on. My welds were/are ugly as hell man. Grind them down, fill in the holes, and grind again. We'll know soon enough if mine is going to hold up, but Im pretty confident that it will.
As Dave mentioned, you'll have to pull the engine. Thats a bigger PITA than the cutting and welding. I'd be interested in seeing the '84 notch youre talking about. At least with this '85, it seems more like fixing isolated issues, rather than restoring a whole car. And your tuner? Im starting to wonder about him. He tried tuning the car at 60 psi fuel pressure? Doesnt that create a lot of heat?
As Dave mentioned, you'll have to pull the engine. Thats a bigger PITA than the cutting and welding. I'd be interested in seeing the '84 notch youre talking about. At least with this '85, it seems more like fixing isolated issues, rather than restoring a whole car. And your tuner? Im starting to wonder about him. He tried tuning the car at 60 psi fuel pressure? Doesnt that create a lot of heat?
I appreciate both your comments. @Davedacarpainter , you’re not likely to hurt my feelings. Four years of military service and 41 years of marriage (45 if you count my first one) has beat all that out of me .
I did get it back from a Gearheads this afternoon. Travis spent an hour or better on the phone with FITechs “customer support”. Whoever he was talking to had to ask someone else what the answer to his question were. I really think if I had a bigger engine or a power adder this system would be fine. My car made 283/315 at the wheels on the dyno. It still doesn’t like part throttle much, but is much better than it was.
I’m thinking that a carb might be a better option, maybe a 600 cfm or so. Travis did say that now he’s been in the program he thinks he can get it running better, so I’ll take it back to him mid-November. At that time he will also see about welding a plate on the bottom of the frame rail. If he can do that things should be okay. He said the left side wasn’t nearly as bad as the right, so maybe some rust converter and rust encapsulator will do the trick.
He had some mercy on me, even though he shot the best part of the day trying to get into the FI Tech software. Wound up at less than $400, and that’s with new plugs and fixing my parking brake. If I keep rubbing on it, it just might shine up, so to speak
Jim
I did get it back from a Gearheads this afternoon. Travis spent an hour or better on the phone with FITechs “customer support”. Whoever he was talking to had to ask someone else what the answer to his question were. I really think if I had a bigger engine or a power adder this system would be fine. My car made 283/315 at the wheels on the dyno. It still doesn’t like part throttle much, but is much better than it was.
I’m thinking that a carb might be a better option, maybe a 600 cfm or so. Travis did say that now he’s been in the program he thinks he can get it running better, so I’ll take it back to him mid-November. At that time he will also see about welding a plate on the bottom of the frame rail. If he can do that things should be okay. He said the left side wasn’t nearly as bad as the right, so maybe some rust converter and rust encapsulator will do the trick.
He had some mercy on me, even though he shot the best part of the day trying to get into the FI Tech software. Wound up at less than $400, and that’s with new plugs and fixing my parking brake. If I keep rubbing on it, it just might shine up, so to speak
Jim
I’ve made a commend decision; a couple of them actually. I’m going to sell the FI Tech fuel injection unit, and possibly the fuel pump that goes with it. It’s just way more than my little stock block 302 can handle. FI Tech says it can be used on engines from 250hp through 1200hp, but I think it’s just too fat for small hp engines.
This unit has 8 75lb injectors, it’s own fuel pressure regulator can control timing and other pretty neat things, but really, it’s too much.
The second command decision is that I’m going to build the 84 coupe roller I’ve got and use the 85 as a donor car, then sell the 85 shell for whatever I can get. It should bring some decent money, even as a shell. I’ll keep a lot of the parts on the car that make it unique; 5-lug conversion, 8.8 3:55 rear, Saleen wing, 2004 Cobra front spliced onto the 85 bumper cover, parts of the interior, such as seats, rear quarter trim, headliner, rear seat delete, but most of the mechanical systems I’ll use on the 84. I’ll make certain the frame is squared away before I do much more on it.
I’m disappointed to come to this decision, but I’d rather have a mostly stock coupe than a much modified hatch. I’ll start sanding on the 84 again and I hope to paint it late winter or early spring. Depends on a lot of things going right (or not).
On an unrelated note, the gray sun visors are dirty and gray. I’d like to dye them black. Anyone have an idea on how to best clean and spray them?
TIA
Jim
This unit has 8 75lb injectors, it’s own fuel pressure regulator can control timing and other pretty neat things, but really, it’s too much.
The second command decision is that I’m going to build the 84 coupe roller I’ve got and use the 85 as a donor car, then sell the 85 shell for whatever I can get. It should bring some decent money, even as a shell. I’ll keep a lot of the parts on the car that make it unique; 5-lug conversion, 8.8 3:55 rear, Saleen wing, 2004 Cobra front spliced onto the 85 bumper cover, parts of the interior, such as seats, rear quarter trim, headliner, rear seat delete, but most of the mechanical systems I’ll use on the 84. I’ll make certain the frame is squared away before I do much more on it.
I’m disappointed to come to this decision, but I’d rather have a mostly stock coupe than a much modified hatch. I’ll start sanding on the 84 again and I hope to paint it late winter or early spring. Depends on a lot of things going right (or not).
On an unrelated note, the gray sun visors are dirty and gray. I’d like to dye them black. Anyone have an idea on how to best clean and spray them?
TIA
Jim
I am sure someone will scoop up your roller. After you have the engine pulled, they would have easy access for the needed rust repair, and lets face it, the body is sexy as hell. When you get started on the '84, be sure to document it here so we can all chime in on how to spend your money!
As for the FI Tech stuff, 75 lb injectors are HUGE! Tuned way down, I still feel like thats a fire hose of fuel for your little 302, with the water only on 1/4 stream. I think you'd be smart to go carb, or a Holley EFI system if you have the coin to splurge for it.
As for the FI Tech stuff, 75 lb injectors are HUGE! Tuned way down, I still feel like thats a fire hose of fuel for your little 302, with the water only on 1/4 stream. I think you'd be smart to go carb, or a Holley EFI system if you have the coin to splurge for it.
@95BlueStallion, I had planned on doing a ModFox with my 84, using the 96 as the donor, but my son has that car now and loves it. He painted it white using ratt;le can Rustoleum! It actually turned out pretty good, although he said color sanding was a bear, as it was hard as a rock.
I will go with a hydroboost system, since I have already welded in the steering column bearing late to the firewall. I think it will probably be early spring before I can get serious with it. I've got to finish the body work on the 84, then get it painted. With my resources, that's going to take some time.
@Davedacarpainter, the 84 has been sitting in my garage (North Richland Hills, TX) for about a year. I did some body work using body filler and shot it with primer sealer (rattle can). Do you think that will be okay or should I take it down to bare metal and start over on it?
Here's a photo of the 84. Well, here's not. I keep getting an error message when trying to upload. I resized the picture twice, so the size shouldn't be an issue. When I get it figured out I'll post a couple pictures of it.
TIA
Jim
I will go with a hydroboost system, since I have already welded in the steering column bearing late to the firewall. I think it will probably be early spring before I can get serious with it. I've got to finish the body work on the 84, then get it painted. With my resources, that's going to take some time.
@Davedacarpainter, the 84 has been sitting in my garage (North Richland Hills, TX) for about a year. I did some body work using body filler and shot it with primer sealer (rattle can). Do you think that will be okay or should I take it down to bare metal and start over on it?
Here's a photo of the 84. Well, here's not. I keep getting an error message when trying to upload. I resized the picture twice, so the size shouldn't be an issue. When I get it figured out I'll post a couple pictures of it.
TIA
Jim
As long as it wasn’t in direct rain and doesn’t show any signs of rusting, you should be fine. Just sand it and reprimer it.
That really sucks man, If you have a welder my vote would have been to pull the engine and fix the frame... That's a really unique car and could be saved.
Jim
I did that fixing the rust on my engine bay, but it was only with the wire wheel so it only scrubbed my middle finger good. I also tend to wear flip flops in the garage, and when I was welding I had a hole in the knee of my jeans and burnt the piss out of my knee cap. Im pretty hard headed.
What made the finger injury worse was I had only been working maybe ,,,,,,, 15 seconds when I did this. I was cleaning up some welds I made and as soon as the wire wheel touched the metal it bounced and hit my finger. I didn’t even know I did it until I saw the blood. Ni wrapped it with a paper towel and drove myself to a doc in the box
Jim
Jim
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