Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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That's gonna take a minute...I'm none too thrilled about having to get under the car, and....id have no place ( engine stand) to put it when it's out.
It happens every time. The engine stand that I trip over for years finally goes the way of a garage sale/ craigslist liquidation cause I think I'll never need it again. Then sht like this happens.
I'm lucky that I still have the engine hoist,...the fact that it folds up was the only reason that big assed thing is still here too.
I'm dieing to get the pistons out though..and one way or the other, they'll be out this week end.
Irony is the word of today. I have an engine stand sitting in my garage you can use if you want to swing by. Only thing I actually bought during my engine swap.
I have an engine building friend with 4 of them.
I now have one of them jammed in the back of the Mini.
4 converter bolts are all that hold the engine in the bay.
I tell ya, I'm changing a bunch of sht this time around. Just to get the transmission bolts out required a series of up/ downs with the transmission tail shaft. And with that, a series of me on the floor, then me having to stretch to nut bust over the fenders ensued.
The water lines are gonna get converted over to rigid that run along the side of the engine under the exhaust. Right now, one of the lines that feed the rear side inlet crosses under the engine between the rear of the pan, and the front dust cover on the bell housing. It's just a regular ol' 3/4" rubber heater hose...I've always thought how phcked I'd be if that hose decides to rupture,...so I'm fixing that this time around. The water pump is gonna get re-mounted to something other than the bottom of the intake. The Vacuum tree that hangs from the intake is also gonna move over to a solid mount point on the frame/ k member, and after watching the IAT temps drop dramatically as a result of the water-meth injection, the A2W intercooler is getting removed.
All of these things were "Grumble points" this time around. I've had that intake off a few times now, and the two change items I listed are just too much of a pain in my ass. I'm done with having to lay on my back and reach up through the k member to remove the bottom intake bolts. Even with the head off, the transmission bolts are invisible. ( because I have the engine set completely back as far as I could get it, it's so freakin long.) I should do like they do with race cars, and drill holes where I need to access the trans bolts and put rubber floor plugs in the holes in between now and the next time I have to remove that son of a btch.
As you can probably surmise from this update, this whole engine removal process has went way more bumpy than what I'm used to....But then again, I've only installed this thing,...I've never had to remove it.
But that's happening tomorrow...it'll be on a stand waiting on Sunday to get gutted.
I'm thinking the bearings are gonna show a lot of dirt/debris embedded in them. I hope that ain't the case, cause the plan is to re use them if they're clean...but as much junk as I've encountered on the drain plug magnets,..I'm expecting that the bearings and maybe even the journal surfaces are gonna be suspect.
I tell ya, I'm changing a bunch of sht this time around. Just to get the transmission bolts out required a series of up/ downs with the transmission tail shaft. And with that, a series of me on the floor, then me having to stretch to nut bust over the fenders ensued.
The water lines are gonna get converted over to rigid that run along the side of the engine under the exhaust. Right now, one of the lines that feed the rear side inlet crosses under the engine between the rear of the pan, and the front dust cover on the bell housing. It's just a regular ol' 3/4" rubber heater hose...I've always thought how phcked I'd be if that hose decides to rupture,...so I'm fixing that this time around. The water pump is gonna get re-mounted to something other than the bottom of the intake. The Vacuum tree that hangs from the intake is also gonna move over to a solid mount point on the frame/ k member, and after watching the IAT temps drop dramatically as a result of the water-meth injection, the A2W intercooler is getting removed.
All of these things were "Grumble points" this time around. I've had that intake off a few times now, and the two change items I listed are just too much of a pain in my ass. I'm done with having to lay on my back and reach up through the k member to remove the bottom intake bolts. Even with the head off, the transmission bolts are invisible. ( because I have the engine set completely back as far as I could get it, it's so freakin long.) I should do like they do with race cars, and drill holes where I need to access the trans bolts and put rubber floor plugs in the holes in between now and the next time I have to remove that son of a btch.
As you can probably surmise from this update, this whole engine removal process has went way more bumpy than what I'm used to....But then again, I've only installed this thing,...I've never had to remove it.
But that's happening tomorrow...it'll be on a stand waiting on Sunday to get gutted.
I'm thinking the bearings are gonna show a lot of dirt/debris embedded in them. I hope that ain't the case, cause the plan is to re use them if they're clean...but as much junk as I've encountered on the drain plug magnets,..I'm expecting that the bearings and maybe even the journal surfaces are gonna be suspect.
The last time I had to teardown the oil was full of metal from a failed honing job I did at home.... bad idea btw....
The pan magnets and filter stopped all the metal from reaching the bearings, given the car only idled for a bit before the rings gave up.
Maybe you will be as lucky
The pan magnets and filter stopped all the metal from reaching the bearings, given the car only idled for a bit before the rings gave up.
Maybe you will be as lucky
I don't expect that,..but I'm betting that there'll be at least a couple of bearings with dirt/ debris lodged in them.
In my case, the engine didn't get clean enough at the machine shop. When I cut the side plate open, I found all kinds of potential places in the lifter galley that baked on oil could have crudded up the oil.. I thought that now that it was open, their vat would get it clean...
No said the finger.
I also had to enlarge one of the pushrods holes where there was slight contact. I did that with the engine assembled. I did everything I could to keep metal out of the engine, but there's always that little voice in your head.
It's starting to happen in my head though....the "what ifs."
What if I dump the turbo,...what if I convert to Webers, or individual throttle bodies..with those little baby velocity stack air horns? Could this engine make 300/300 N/A...and what would it sound like with six holes open on the intake side of the engine? That roller is a big cam relatively speaking,..and with a dedicated set of dual banked exhaust pipes....maybe it'll cackle?
BMW e-46 TB's.
These things can be bought for 400 bucks on eBay...I'd build a transition adapter to allow for the difference in bore spacing,...it could be cool...
BMW e-46 TB's.
These things can be bought for 400 bucks on eBay...I'd build a transition adapter to allow for the difference in bore spacing,...it could be cool...
Quit being a moron. All the work you have done to accommodate your turbo, and youre gonna go N/A? GTFO
Moron he says...Doesn't want me to throw away "all that work"....
Like for instance .......
Some 86 project car that I bail on,....
Some 2011 car project that I bail on...
Some small pick up project that I bail on...
All to return to his "high school roots"
Which Incidently is a project theme ......that he bailed on...a " warmed over" stock rebuild that now has evolved to a stroker motor, big brake, retro mod that has a bumper on it that hadn't even been invented yet when his car was roaming his high school parking lot.
You and I know that I won't divert the monster engine from its path towards eventual destruction. 11 pounds today, 15 pounds when it goes back together, 18 pounds, 20 pounds, then rod failure,....cracked cylinder walls, broken main saddles...and what's left of a connecting rod jammed into a combustion chamber.........
That gets followed up with a New block, 6 more sleeves, 500.00 rods, new 800.00 Pistons, 150.00 rings, an "I fckin forgot how expensive" Australian cylinder head full of Chevy spec'd aftermarket junk, ..another cam from Australia, lifters for a 460, a crank that needed this mod, or that mod, a timing chain that fits some Toyota.
Yeah,.....If that's not moronic, I don't know what is.....stupid me,....thinking maybe I'd tame it down,...enjoy the visceral experience of a roller cammed, individual throttle bodied port injected, N/A combo that isn't on a path to self destruction...
You trailed off before finishing your sentence, but I got it for you.
Moron he says...Doesn't want me to throw away "all that work"....
Like for instance .......
Some 86 project car that I bail on,....
Some 2011 car project that I bail on...
Some small pick up project that I bail on...
All to return to his "high school roots"
Which Incidently is a project theme ......that he bailed on...a " warmed over" stock rebuild that now has evolved to a stroker motor, big brake, retro mod that has a bumper on it that hadn't even been invented yet when his car was roaming his high school parking lot.
You and I know that I won't divert the monster engine from its path towards eventual destruction. 11 pounds today, 15 pounds when it goes back together, 18 pounds, 20 pounds, then rod failure,....cracked cylinder walls, broken main saddles...and what's left of a connecting rod jammed into a combustion chamber.........
That gets followed up with a New block, 6 more sleeves, 500.00 rods, new 800.00 Pistons, 150.00 rings, an "I fckin forgot how expensive" Australian cylinder head full of Chevy spec'd aftermarket junk, ..another cam from Australia, lifters for a 460, a crank that needed this mod, or that mod, a timing chain that fits some Toyota.
Yeah,.....If that's not moronic, I don't know what is.....stupid me,....thinking maybe I'd tame it down,...enjoy the visceral experience of a roller cammed, individual throttle bodied port injected, N/A combo that isn't on a path to self destruction...
Hey, dropping one project to start another is normal in our world. And me going bigger than planned with my car is also normal. Rebuilding an engine to handle boost, and installing water/meth just to go N/A a week later.... Hell your current rings probably would have been fine without the turbo. Just sayin, ya soft skinned lizard.
PS, I am impressed you remember my chain of vehicles back to the '86, and surprised no scrapped hoods were mentioned!
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Im not really up to speed on my lizard species, but that sounds acceptable, lol.
HotFox
15 Year Member
Mike,
Your dreaming if you think that I6 will make 300 NA. That's 50hp per hole....thats like saying I put good aluminum heads on a 302 with comparable stuff and make 400hp which is nearly impossible unless you wind the piss out of it. Other disadvantages, your smaller CID then the compariable 302. You have a cylinder head that is head and shoulders above stock, but it is a far cry from the latest Windsor SBF technology. Your also on a smaller bore which is effecting air flow, which ultimately affects efficiency.
IMO even with the turbo your only making mid to high 3's for HP. The Torque that is what you are feeling and that is the big number between 400-500 ft lbs which is long and flat and starts out low.
Scott
Your dreaming if you think that I6 will make 300 NA. That's 50hp per hole....thats like saying I put good aluminum heads on a 302 with comparable stuff and make 400hp which is nearly impossible unless you wind the piss out of it. Other disadvantages, your smaller CID then the compariable 302. You have a cylinder head that is head and shoulders above stock, but it is a far cry from the latest Windsor SBF technology. Your also on a smaller bore which is effecting air flow, which ultimately affects efficiency.
IMO even with the turbo your only making mid to high 3's for HP. The Torque that is what you are feeling and that is the big number between 400-500 ft lbs which is long and flat and starts out low.
Scott
I appreciate the help. Thank you for that.
I tried to stay positive, and on point.
See below....
Shows what the three of you know about your reptiles, and amphibians.
There's no such thing as a " soft skinned lizard" lizards are reptiles, and just like my ol' buddy the Gila Monster, have a very thick' scaly skin..Newts' Salamanders, and Geckos are all amphibians..( like a frog)..and wouldn't be caught dead in an Arizona Desert.
The voice of reason..and I couldn't agree with you more.
I drive 250 hp bmws every day..I drive the 228 hp mini daily. I think they're all more than adequate to make for a fun daily driver. But even naturally aspirated, I'm gonna guess that the monster would be a 250/300 combo.
And at 3000 lbs, with a 3.73 gear, and a 4r70w first gear...still pretty damn quick.
In the end, its all talk. I'm way too invested in this to bail on it at the 600 mile mark...
But....I'm right to second guess myself at the same time....
keeping the turbo on it will be the timed fuse...when I re-start it this time, that'll be the match.
Well,.it's out. The poor engine compartment paint didn't fare so well this time. W/ a huge chunk breaking off of the firewall (bondo didn't like getting that hot) a giant scrape upp the pass strut tower, and broken paint at the firewall where the head made contact with it everytime I put the valve cover back on.
I guess I'll get it up on a stand, and go about the process of removing the pan, so I can push the pistons out next.
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I wont know that till I get the pistons out...and......Yes,...the garage is now truly "bloodied".Breaking in that new garage properly there Mike
What did you find out about the rings?
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