Engine Cooling system Advice?

[Willybill32]

I know, no issues and I run under drive pulleys, not sure if I will put them back on though. Probably will.

To tell you the truth, General, I'm not sure I could ever tell they had an impact on the power on my car.

 

[admLSC7]

Think im
Going with Edlebrock double roller stock replacement. Any takes on this? Factory cast cam sprocket with factory marching numbers. Seamless chain. The FRP one I would have to replace the thrust plate and really don’t want to get into that if I can avoid it. Just going for stock. Don’t have a dial indicator to measure the current slack but I did work in a machine shop for a while and by eye I’d say I may have all around 1/4” play on the current chain. About an 1/8” either side. The spec I’ve seen for play/slack is 50 thousandths of an inch I think. And if I checked the degrees for slack originally I would really have a better idea. I’ve seen 7 degree max for that. Correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[Blown88GT]

The only thing that had a noticeable impact on power was forced induction.

 

[General karthief]

I just replaced mine with a Cloyes from rock auto, less than 20 bucks.

 

[admLSC7]

Have you guys done a timing Chain install? I’ve done my research... however I have one question? I know the marks line up 6 on the cam to 12 on the crank and key way. Was planning to put it at TDC #1 cylinder compression stroke. Is this required or do I just have to line the marks up?

was going to use my finger to find #1 compression and the distributor rotor at #1 to get it. Is this a good way to do this? Otherwise I will get the tdc tool plus the stop. My valve covers are on so I cannot watch the valves, and my balancer and timing pointers are off. Thanks in advance.

I’min here, decent amount of play in the chain and I’m at 138k so figure why not. Again, thanks in advance guys, appreciate it.

 

[General karthief]

If your balancer and pointer have been removed you can line up the marks on the chain when you pull the cover off before you install the new chain.
I always start out at tdc and mark the rotor position and distributor position before I take it apart that way everything just drops in,

 

[admLSC7]

If your balancer and pointer have been removed you can line up the marks on the chain when you pull the cover off before you install the new chain.
I always start out at tdc and mark the rotor position and distributor position before I take it apart that way everything just drops in,

That’s exactly what I was hoping. Awesome! They are lined up currently but going to check with a straight edge once the eccentric is pulled on the dots. Also going to line up the distributor and #1 cylinder on compression. At least want to make sure it’s going to work right that way. Unfortunately I’ve already removed the front end of the motor so I can’t start from point A which I wish I would have researched before hand. Any other advice is much appreciated guys.

 

[admLSC7]

If your balancer and pointer have been removed you can line up the marks on the chain when you pull the cover off before you install the new chain.
I always start out at tdc and mark the rotor position and distributor position before I take it apart that way everything just drops in,

Theoretically speaking; if I use a piston stop tool and put the harmonic balancer on terpotarily, then find the point between the marks using a stop tool I could still find TDC correct? Correct me if I’m wrong please. This is again after finding the compression stroke cylinder #1.

 

[General karthief]

Look at the timing gears, cam dot at 6 o'clock crank dot at 12. Piston will be at the top of the compression stroke.

 

[KRUISR]

What General said.

Piston stop may not get you exactly at TDC, but close, likely just before TDC.

 

[admLSC7]

What General said.

Piston stop may not get you exactly at TDC, but close, likely just before TDC.

Tried to take into account for the dwell as best I could. Did it a few times to check. Also checked distributor at # 1. Timing mark came out exact at original zero TDC after putting the balancer on temporarily. Used tape, measured with caliper 3 times between stop points and took average which lined back up with 0. Dot to dot cam and crank line up. Realized if I tried to degree I would actually have relatively no adjustment with the top end assembled and chain/gears with only oem key way . I did re-install the pointer temporarily to do this. Stretched the tape flat also to do do the measurements because of the arch, using a digital caliper. Seems pretty spot on. Hoping that’s a plus. Wishing I did this ahead of time for sure. Thanks again

closest tape to front is actual after measurements using stop.

 

[KRUISR]

Sounds like you found TDC and all lined up. Good job.

 

[admLSC7]

Thanks for the help guys. She’s up up and running well. Did realize why I have a longer belt than you guys; it’s due to a larger alternator pulley on the MarkVII. Switched out the Edlebrock chain for Ford Performance chain due to the oil channel on the thrust plate which was not on the Edlebrock, that and a few sand holes in the Edlebrock cast cam sprocket. Temp is nice and cool and noticble power difference. Measured about 3 degrees of slack in the old chain.

custom made a rag joint while in there. If anyone has done this lmk. Basically like a mustang, but has a master key and I’m fairly certain the holes in the rag were a touch different. Measure it out a few times. And scooped one from a speed shop. Deciding to see if I can use the stop pins from the dorman kit however. Trying to find the diameter and spline count to purchase one for a stang if possible. Rack # is SPR-CT
New distributor cap and rotor too, mine was a French fry