Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

Cool sticker at the rear window (10 HP worth):
I give it 4 and a half monkeys too! Carry On!
OIP.0z8lVMz_z7SbSL0aORPhnQHaFA.jpeg
 
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I can't help with the Pertronix, I don't have any experience with them. :shrug:
They are a nice upgrade to eliminate point wear and not switch all the wiring for a Duraspark system or go to an HEI style (Davis Unified ignition) distributor that works well but will get you haters when you pop the hood.
 
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I drove yesterday! Ignition is working with both coils I have (3,3 and 1,7 Ohm). But I have a problem with the fuel system. I took the car for a drive to the fuel station and filled it up the first time to full. Nothing leaks. :)
At the way back, the car started to stumble. I think the fuel pump is not happy. I read around and it seems the fuel filter should be after the pump...
I took a bath in fuel and moved the in-line fuel pump near the front leaf spring bushing because this is the deepest position and put the fuel filter upstream to the pump. Now there should be enough "gravity feed"...
If not, I need to put it somehow near the fuel tank. This time with nitrile gloves, not latex gloves... :doh:
 
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I would keep a filter before the external pump but I would install an in-tank pump, quiet, lasts longer, jumps higher but that's me.
Would that require dropping the tank and punching a hole into it, or are there retro fit in-tank pumps designed to be used in place of the pickup and level sender for gravity feed systems? The last I knew people would install an inline electric pump between the tank and the mechanical pump to keep it fed.
 
Likely drop the tank and punch a hole type pumps, I didn't see any retro fit for the ll fuel tank, worth the extra work.
or carry and extra, oh and next time you deal with the fuel in the lines just unplug the pump and run the engine till it stops, a lot less fuel to deal with.
 
Likely drop the tank and punch a hole type pumps, I didn't see any retro fit for the ll fuel tank, worth the extra work.
or carry and extra, oh and next time you deal with the fuel in the lines just unplug the pump and run the engine till it stops, a lot less fuel to deal with.
Because I removed the pump and filter it most came from the tank. With nitrile gloves it is only half that bad...
The new setup works till the fuel filter looks like this:
IMG_20210722_152018.jpg


If it's new it looks like that:
IMG_20210722_153810.jpg


It seems that the plastic brackets that hold the metal part of the filter element collapse or something like that. How ever it seems that fuel can not pass the filter anymore... or not enough. Engine was knocking when accelerating and started to stumble again.
I ordered a metal fuel filter. I hope this solves the problem. I did idle adjustment two times today...
That car/fuel system is fighting me hard. I miss my 65 mechanical fuel pump with integrated fuel filter. That was so nice and was working without any problems and only two pieces of hose in the complete fuel system...
 
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I'm still thinking what went wrong. This filter looks just curious. The car was around 1 hour running in idle and perhaps 15 minutes of driving with this filter. The filter was new!!! I checked 5 times what the filter is doing in this time...
Just curious.
 
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I'm still at a loss as to what you're referring to? The top picture looks to me like the view of the filter inside is distorted because you're looking through liquid. Otherwise it doesn't look like there's anything wrong with it that I can see. I mean the metal ends of the filter wouldn't grow and it's unlikely that the plastic housing has shrunken, if that's what you're looking at.
 
I'm still at a loss as to what you're referring to? The top picture looks to me like the view of the filter inside is distorted because you're looking through liquid. Otherwise it doesn't look like there's anything wrong with it that I can see. I mean the metal ends of the filter wouldn't grow and it's unlikely that the plastic housing has shrunken, if that's what you're looking at.
:chin
Perhaps it looks distorted because of the liquid like you say and something different is going on.
The first couple times when I was accelerating, the car ran fine. And there was no stumble or knocking. 10 minutes later it ran bad. Any ideas what else to check? Needle&seat?
 
The filter and pump look close to the exhaust, can you monitor fuel pressure while driving around?
Make sure the filter is flowing the correct direction.
I started the car and it was idling fine. 10 minutes later it was impossible to get consisted idle. The fuel bowls where cold compared to the rest. I changed the spare ignition coil I had with me in the parking lot, but still crappy/no idle when warm/hot. Then I "drove" home changed the pertronix 1 and still have no idle. I opened the fuel bowl level plugs and there was fuel dripping out. I have no fuel pressure gauge, but I think the carb gets enough fuel and it doesn't get hot (on the picture above it looks much closer than it is).

I removed the carb and cleaned the bowls, idle circuit and etc. I set primary and secondary transfer slots to spec.
I will test in a few minutes if its running again.
 
Bähhm! Different car! :)
It is idling to high, but I also need to check the ignition timing to get max mechanical advance and the RPM where max mechanical advance is in. I will do that with a friend.
Never thought that it is a dirty idle circuit, because everything was new except the tank but there was always a filter between tank and carb. I hope everything is now clean. Fuel filter still looks good and yes @LILCBRA your right, it just looks odd because of the refraction of different liquids.
 
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I also have re-torqued the intake manifold bolts, perhaps this was the real issue. I'm still thinking what it was and why the car ran okay, when cold (with choke)...
If i remember correctly I used a print-o-seal intake gasket. I think the settle a lot, after the first few heat cycles.
 
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