2Blue2's 1977 Cobra2 Driveway Build

Gratuitous FlowMaster / Exhaust Cutout shot.

It got some stealth flat black spray paint along the line.
Cutout pipe has been dinged cuze lowest point on car bottom.
LOL

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Front bracket encapsulates front leaf bracket after a tap from the hammer.
New Mexican U-bolts.
No Cal trac action.
Is underider bar like on 66 Shelbys.
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Dropped car back on ground and some bolts got tightened at ride height. Everything got blue lock tight even the poly locks to help keep threads nice for the long haul.

I'm not sure what hermetic seal I broke but the leaf eye bolts were really nice and clean.
I thought i would have to sawzall em out like every 60s Mustang leafspring bolts.
 
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Checking the book for specs gets

Spring to Axle U bolt nut - 30-50 ft lbs
Spring font eye bolt nut - 100-140 ft lbs
Shock to leaf mount plate - 14-26

I was able to tighten the u bolts at 40 ft lbs 4 times and it cinched more each time.
I guess the Mexican u bolts form to fit a little bit.

Drove car around block twice did a couple of hard stops/starts
Back up and check them critical bolts again.
Good to go!
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I was able to tighten the u bolts at 40 ft lbs 4 times and it cinched more each time.
I guess the Mexican u bolts form to fit a little bit.
Every bolt that has so much free length (top of axle housing to nut) will elongate a lot. It is nothing different than a very stiff coil spring.
So nothing wrong with the mex u bolts :nice:
 
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Trying to Set Traction Bar Preload
Was able to obtain '0' preload with both bars at same length on both sides, (I guess that means its reasonable square)
Giving each side one more half turn longer so equal preload right now.

But,
Should I set "0" preload with my fat ass in the car ? Then set the desired preload?
 
Trying to Set Traction Bar Preload
Was able to obtain '0' preload with both bars at same length on both sides, (I guess that means its reasonable square)
Giving each side one more half turn longer so equal preload right now.

But,
Should I set "0" preload with my fat ass in the car ? Then set the desired preload?
I'm not sure it matters if you're in the car as much as it does making sure the drive tire is preloaded more so than the other if you don't have any kind of locking rear. If I recall, the instructions for the old Southside Machine Lift Bars I have in my car said to preload the drive tire with one of the shims they sent moreso than the other side.
 
No posi yet.
I imagine setting the "0" preload with me in the car will do this?
Dunno, I didn't do that and don't remember what those directions said anymore. But I also installed them by myself whereas you have someone to help. It might be better to Google it than what I have to say..... :shrug:
 
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I think a small amount (1/2 turn) preload is right. But testing is key...
If you have set it to zero preload with load on the axle (without you in the seat) there will be some preload if you are on the seat...
If you want to drive: try it how you set it. If you want to be sure wait for the answer of stumby.
I think only to much preload or wheel hop is a problem you want to avoid. So raising the preload till there is no wheel hop is the way to go.
 
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Went to local weekend cruise in last night.

Parked by Purple Hemi and slick 34

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1 token Fox body but at least it was nice
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My car rides rougher with the bars, I've killed the little Lincoln ride for sure.
With less rubber bushings back there the car launches harder and spins the tires further from a stop in the usual test spot.
 
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My car rides rougher with the bars, I've killed the little Lincoln ride for sure.
Yeah but on the 300 mile trip to the Canadian border this week with a full load of all my gear the ride softened up for me and I was amazed how smooth it's driving now. So there is hope.
 
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