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Here is a pic of the $109 dollar one from LMR installed... I believe I paid less than that before Janet Yellen was put in charge....
After years of fighting on some past cars leaking, warping, warped to start with, "Chrome" ( Run Forest) T stats paying this for a really good one is OK in my book...
Again, the only difference in this one over the $200 one ( according to LMR) is paying ford to have the ford part # on it.....
After years of fighting on some past cars leaking, warping, warped to start with, "Chrome" ( Run Forest) T stats paying this for a really good one is OK in my book...
Again, the only difference in this one over the $200 one ( according to LMR) is paying ford to have the ford part # on it.....
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Went through the reviews on that to find a pic. This pic doesn't match what's in the product description. The PD photo looks like my OEM unit, but this one...looks fake? Has the part number on it, but it's much larger that what was on my OE part.
Regardless, i'm happy with my $20 used part. We can move on from this.
Regardless, i'm happy with my $20 used part. We can move on from this.
Took the car out to get lunch. Another hot/cold cycle purging air out of the system. Car ran well. Putting more miles on and getting a feel for things. Did a few low RPM 2nd gear off a stop light starts and no bucking. Was about to cruise around at 1500 or so in 2nd. I could probably manage 3.55's in this thing, but lets put a summer of driving on the car first and decide.
The headliner trim on the pass side has an annoying squeak. I'll need to pull that down and see what's up there. I thought I lined it all in felt, but it sounds like the clip is squeaking where it pressed into the roof. I know i know...fox bodies aren't going to be quiet.
I do think I will need to revisit the cooling overflow. This generic bottle just doesn't have enough capacity to cover the expansion that I'm seeing in my system. It's always between empty and spilling over into the overflow tube, which always spills coolant on the garage floor which is annoying me. I might have to find a tank with slightly more diameter for more capacity so the rise/fall of the coolant level isn't so dramatic.
Up next is to tweak the suspension a tad. I want to lower it down just a tad, and set the camber properly. Ultimately i'm waiting for my damn new wheels to come off backorder, which should be around July. I've got the toe pretty good as i've made a few adjustments. I'll get a real alighment when i'm "done".
Car also needs a wash and detail. Maybe this weekend
The headliner trim on the pass side has an annoying squeak. I'll need to pull that down and see what's up there. I thought I lined it all in felt, but it sounds like the clip is squeaking where it pressed into the roof. I know i know...fox bodies aren't going to be quiet.
I do think I will need to revisit the cooling overflow. This generic bottle just doesn't have enough capacity to cover the expansion that I'm seeing in my system. It's always between empty and spilling over into the overflow tube, which always spills coolant on the garage floor which is annoying me. I might have to find a tank with slightly more diameter for more capacity so the rise/fall of the coolant level isn't so dramatic.
Up next is to tweak the suspension a tad. I want to lower it down just a tad, and set the camber properly. Ultimately i'm waiting for my damn new wheels to come off backorder, which should be around July. I've got the toe pretty good as i've made a few adjustments. I'll get a real alighment when i'm "done".
Car also needs a wash and detail. Maybe this weekend
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Nothing more fun that piddling around town in a 30+ year-old vehicle with functioning air conditioning.filled the coolant and started the car. Let it idle a bit to purge the air and went for a drive. Temp maxed out right here, which is lower that it was with the 192 stat. Looks to be about right where I want to be with the 180 stat. Didn’t hook up a mechanical gauge this time, but with the 192 in between the R and M was about 195-200 degrees.
Later in the evening I pressure test the system and it was good to go.
I drove around a bit afterwards. Still feeling the car out, but it’s stout. It was a warm humid day, so AC was on the entire time.
Parked and was happy to see a nice “leak” under the car in the form of water condensation pouring out of the drain. You have no idea how happy I am to see this. Out of all the stuff I did to the car getting the ac working again was my favorite
85GTStangGuy
5 Year Member
Like what?Wish I did more engine parts in this intake color…
It is a cool color.
All of the silver aluminum accessories up front. Belt tensioner, ac compressor, water pump, alt. Etc.
I know what you’re saying….. but I’d be willing to bet that the engine compartment looks awesome in person……. I don’t think this picture is doing it justice.Wish I did more engine parts in this intake color…
I'd have to pull the A/C compressor apart to P/C it. Not doing that. Most i'll do is repaint the tensioner because that Eastwoon ALuminum paint yellows VERY easily and I hate it.
I agree. Time to enjoy just keeping it clean and driving it. I spent enough time working on it.
Ok. Just got the email that the wheels I wanted will be back in stock soon. If you remember, I already have two.
I have a pair of 18x9 wheels with +25 offset.
Here’s what will be available.
18x9 +35
18x10 +20
Before you assume I’m getting the 18x10s, don’t. I’m not a fan of the look of staggered dish wheels. I prefer square setups. They did change the offset on the 18x9 wheels thoigh from +25 to +35 I need to see how that will fit on my car and which set would make sense front vs rear. Time to plug in some numbers in offset calculators.
For tire size, probably not going to go too crazy as the tailpipes need to stay. So doesn’t make sense to go 18x10 to stick a 285 tire on it.
I have 96+ spindles up front so I don’t want to poke out too far. Also, with panhard bar in rear the roll center changes, so you actually want to be out a tad to avoid the top of tire rolling into the inner fenders. MM recommends 1/4” spacers but I was hoping to avoid that.
Edit: after playing around with calculators. Looks like I should stick the +35 up front and +25 in the rear if I go with 18x9 all around.
I have a pair of 18x9 wheels with +25 offset.
Here’s what will be available.
18x9 +35
18x10 +20
Before you assume I’m getting the 18x10s, don’t. I’m not a fan of the look of staggered dish wheels. I prefer square setups. They did change the offset on the 18x9 wheels thoigh from +25 to +35 I need to see how that will fit on my car and which set would make sense front vs rear. Time to plug in some numbers in offset calculators.
For tire size, probably not going to go too crazy as the tailpipes need to stay. So doesn’t make sense to go 18x10 to stick a 285 tire on it.
I have 96+ spindles up front so I don’t want to poke out too far. Also, with panhard bar in rear the roll center changes, so you actually want to be out a tad to avoid the top of tire rolling into the inner fenders. MM recommends 1/4” spacers but I was hoping to avoid that.
Edit: after playing around with calculators. Looks like I should stick the +35 up front and +25 in the rear if I go with 18x9 all around.
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I agree, i too like 4 matching wheels with the dish. It's what i hate about the saleen stern replicas. 4 of the same wheels would look better.
Maybe this will help, maybe it won't.
I use this site all the time. IMO, it's the best.
www.1010tires.com
Use it to calculate tire size changes too.
I run an 8.5in 30mm rear wheel.
So to give you a real world comparison, it appears that your 9in 25mm wheels in the rear will give you 1mm less inside clearance and 11mm less on the outside than what i run. With a reasonably sized tire you should be fine. If you ran the 35mm in the back, my guess is that nearly half an inch would put you dangerously close.
The fronts sound like they will be good too, i run an 8.5 10mm and the fit has always been just right.
It's a shame i don't think i can run the 10mm on the back, because i have 7 spares, lol (no they can't be milled, the lug holes are deeper)
Oddly enough, i run them reverse of what saleen did with the s351, i have the fronts on the rear and the rears on the front.
Maybe this will help, maybe it won't.
I use this site all the time. IMO, it's the best.
Wheel Offset and backspacing calculator
Wheel Offset Calculator | 1010Tires.com is the largest and most trusted online and retail tire company.
www.1010tires.com
I run an 8.5in 30mm rear wheel.
So to give you a real world comparison, it appears that your 9in 25mm wheels in the rear will give you 1mm less inside clearance and 11mm less on the outside than what i run. With a reasonably sized tire you should be fine. If you ran the 35mm in the back, my guess is that nearly half an inch would put you dangerously close.
The fronts sound like they will be good too, i run an 8.5 10mm and the fit has always been just right.
It's a shame i don't think i can run the 10mm on the back, because i have 7 spares, lol (no they can't be milled, the lug holes are deeper)
Oddly enough, i run them reverse of what saleen did with the s351, i have the fronts on the rear and the rears on the front.
Boostedpimp
20+ Year Stangneter 
Seems to fall in line then where I was expecting to be.
I took the car out this AM to grab a coffee. Cooling system now seems to hold it nice and stable right here. Before it would swing from here up to the OR and back down. Made me nervious to see it swinging up and down like that. I like the stability i see now.
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Maybe this will help, maybe it won't.
I use this site all the time. IMO, it's the best.
Use it to calculate tire size changes too.Wheel Offset and backspacing calculator
Wheel Offset Calculator | 1010Tires.com is the largest and most trusted online and retail tire company.
Thanks I did use that sit and it confirms what I think might be the way to go.
+35 up front and +25 in the rear with my Fox-lenght axles. I might need a spacer up front however. +30 would have been perfect IMHO but they don't offer that.
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