Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

Status
Not open for further replies.
Another thing to note, i do not run a cooler.
Not sure if the 96-98s had a cooler or not, i know i do not.
My system is a bit of a hybrid. sn95 hoses, 03 cobra engine and accessory setup.
I used all 96-98 hoses, one (while still a factory hose) i had altered by a hydraulic shop.

I was trying to understand why the pic of the hoses you posted had so many clamps when i know i don't have that many, i'll guess the cooler explains that.
 
Pic of my setup. Now that I think of it, not very smart planning. Hydro return from the left. High volume steering return from right. Has to exit up in the tee. And THEN another 90* fitting and one more before going into the reservior. That’s a lot of restriction for the hydro and even backpressure.

So, I’ll have to brainstorm how to Re plumb this.

CE11D817-5456-4145-8378-A1F6631B7041.webp
 
Ok. Just got the email that the wheels I wanted will be back in stock soon. If you remember, I already have two.

I have a pair of 18x9 wheels with +25 offset.

Here’s what will be available.

18x9 +35
18x10 +20


Before you assume I’m getting the 18x10s, don’t. I’m not a fan of the look of staggered dish wheels. I prefer square setups. They did change the offset on the 18x9 wheels thoigh from +25 to +35 I need to see how that will fit on my car and which set would make sense front vs rear. Time to plug in some numbers in offset calculators.

For tire size, probably not going to go too crazy as the tailpipes need to stay. So doesn’t make sense to go 18x10 to stick a 285 tire on it.

I have 96+ spindles up front so I don’t want to poke out too far. Also, with panhard bar in rear the roll center changes, so you actually want to be out a tad to avoid the top of tire rolling into the inner fenders. MM recommends 1/4” spacers but I was hoping to avoid that.

Edit: after playing around with calculators. Looks like I should stick the +35 up front and +25 in the rear if I go with 18x9 all around.
I have 18x9's with +24 offset all around. I have the 96+ spindles like you and relocated my fox length control arms inward 0.5".

I needed a 5/16" (8mm) spacer so my rim would clear my coilover spring. If I didn't have coilovers I think I could get away with no spacer in front.

I put the same spacer in rear because the tire to quarter panel looked better than without it. I run a 275 tire in the rear and just have enough clearance (with the spacer) between tailpipe and tire on driver side. I have fox length axles.

Based on my set up, I think a +35 offset in the front may be too much without spacers - especially if you have coilovers (I can't remember if you do).
 
If i'm understanding what you are saying, the fluid is feeding directly towards each other, then fighting for space in the T?
If that's the case, couldn't you just swap one line with the one that is coming from the T end?
 
Based on my set up, I think a +35 offset in the front may be too much without spacers - especially if you have coilovers (I can't remember if you do).

I tried the +25s up front. I do have coil-overs and it does clear without a spacer. It’s close, but clears. I did this a while ago but should double chexk the clearance again.

The +35s might be tight. I might have to get a spacer up front.
 
If i'm understanding what you are saying, the fluid is feeding directly towards each other, then fighting for space in the T?
If that's the case, couldn't you just swap one line with the one that is coming from the T end?

I poked around a bit tonight and think I can manage to rearrange it to test. Really my concern was routing it away from the sway bar and keeping things from chaffing.

I might have to remake a line. Regardless, I can’t try anything until next week. Schools out so taking the kids away for the weekend somewhere fun. I’ll see if I can mess with it sun night.
 
  • Like
Reactions: General karthief
Pulled my #7 and #8 plugs. #7 and 5 others ran about 220 degrees while #8 was near 300.

Does look like that plug was running a tad hotter. I bet that injector isn’t as healthy.

7 on left, 8 on right

5EB9C04E-8D3B-4E75-88D0-2098A4043A2F.jpeg A0B0688F-7629-4C0C-9125-0E607FEEB093.jpeg



This guy came to habg out for a bit while I worked on the car. Just sat in the grass half asleep for 30 min before heading out

35E8453A-AB36-4D14-A251-3548A3392B95.jpeg
You have a NICE lawn.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JAA
Ok. Finally got back to messing with the car. First thing I did was pull the return from the hydrob off and extend the hose down to a drain pain. Capped off that port.

Fired the car up and did notice the pedal felt better. It behaved as expected which was that if you pump it a few times and start the car with foot on brake, it should pop up a bit as it pressurized. Didn’t do that before but it did it now.

Shut down and Re plumbed the hoses.

D46D3515-4140-41A6-BA9F-DC40480D9873.webp

Crappy pic but it was 10pm and I was in a rush. So now the high volume return from the steering rack comes from the bottom and goes up to the return to the reservoir. The hydro return comes from the left on the 90* branch.

Didn’t test. Too late to start car. We will see how it drives this weekend.

I didn’t change the pressure valve. My research shows all these pumps are in the same general range. Let’s try this first. If it goes back to feeling weird I might have to go to the 7.3l double return pump housing. But I’m crossing fingers this does the trick
 
Drove the car. It’s better, but not where it should be. In fact it feels the pedal response is back to almost where it was before I completely disconnected the line, so it seems backpressure is affecting the hydro. Pressing the brakes gives me a little brake drag and the pedal rebound is not where it needs to be.

So, I either need a second bung on the remote reservior, or switch to the 7.3L dual return housing.

Gonna have a few beers this weekend and think about this. Plenty of folks run their hydro like mine so curious why mine has issues. Wondering if I should try swapping the pressure relief first. But given the messiness of dealing with Type F, I’m trying to avoid R&R rhe pump and lines too much. Looks like I can’t avoid it.

I think I can drive on the pedal I have? But can definitely tell the brakes drag after a decent stop. Telltale sign of return line backpressure.
 
The beers may have paid off. Browsing the site where I got the remote reservior….


This is the 6AN return to the reservior. This restriction is creating backpressure.
4AB7E5E6-8F40-4827-9AE4-62EAE010AB22.jpeg



That might be why I have a restriction issue. I may need to drill this out to allow for more flow. Problem is, it’s part of the design to have this restriction.

0826DB25-AFC7-4BDD-B697-B89F2A57B315.png

You know what? I think I’m gonna go for it. It’s causing an issue with the hydroboost as the return needs to be a max of 3 psi. Time to siphon out the fluid and drill that out.

Other option is to drill/tap and install a separate return for the hydro.
 
Last edited:
Definitely think you have found the issue. The one we got for the ‘69 Sportroof is this one:


Has two return ports. Pure luck as it’s what the guy my father bought the huyraboost kit from recommended.
 
I definitely think this is the issue. Took another drive this AM. Got up to higher speeds and tried the brakes and definitely need to address this.

I have two ways to try and solve this. Drill out the return port and hope areation is not an issue.

Or add a second bung in the side of the bottle for the hydro return. I should be able to drill tap npt and use a sealant.

Only question then is do I still drill out that return port? The stock pump return doesn’t have a restriction or baffle so not sure aeration is a huge concern.


Step one is to siphon fluid out first and dismount the bottle and evaluate. I might wait til after the 4th so I can sneak in a couple low-speed local drives first.
 
  • Like
Reactions: General karthief
I lied. Factory reservoir does have a series of baffles to slow down the return fluid and prevent areation.

You can see the return hole in the center
690758DA-2880-409C-8E27-48B2A34B0E02.webp



Simply solution is to use the 7.3L pump housing and call it a day, but I want to try and use this remote reservior I have. So I’ll have to engineer a solution.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.