1993 LX 5.0 dies after ignition parts replacement
- Thread starter Warhorse85
- Start date
I have a ford specific code reader and there are no codes presentWhen you say, "no codes"; what does that mean exactly?
Did you get the "no codes" code?
Mindseye007
5 Year Member
Your car is an automatic so this TFI is made for a foxbody 5.0 with an Automatic trans. It's a Heavy Duty Version from Rockauto...
This is not good. You should get a code 11 on KEOR and KOEO. Code 11 = PASS
That means you should ensure power and ground for the EEC. If you have both, then you need to get yours repaired or swap it with a good one.
Actually Iied, there was a code that related to the smog pump. I deleted it a few years ago.
What it means is when you perform the KOEO and the the KOER tests you should get an 11 (which means the KOEO test passed) followed by a 10 (break between tests) and another 11 (which means the KOER test passed). This means no codes are present. If you get codes then diagnose and make repairs. If they are present from missing equipment then you are good to go.
Remember, this ECU is old so it’s first in first out. If you have codes and make repairs then clear the ECU. Take the car out and drive it to get it up to temperature and then drive it for a bit more then pull codes again. Do not be surprised if you get additional codes as they were behind the ones you addressed previously.
With all that being said if you do not get the 11, 10, 11 or codes, 10, 11 or 11 , 10, codes or codes, 11, codes the ECU has a problem.
Remember, this ECU is old so it’s first in first out. If you have codes and make repairs then clear the ECU. Take the car out and drive it to get it up to temperature and then drive it for a bit more then pull codes again. Do not be surprised if you get additional codes as they were behind the ones you addressed previously.
With all that being said if you do not get the 11, 10, 11 or codes, 10, 11 or 11 , 10, codes or codes, 11, codes the ECU has a problem.
Mindseye007
5 Year Member
Mindseye007
5 Year Member
I think the 2 you bought are probally cooked buy that TFI testor off ebay and see.
What I meant was, I bought 2 already. I just installed the second new one and still no start
Can you do a quick recap of where you are at right now? Lots of moving parts and I think we are missing something.
So I replaced the TFI for a second time last night, still cranks with no start. Charged battery overnight and reset ECM this morning. Checked for codes and got 85, 10, 15. Tried to start it and still cranks with no start. Checked codes again and got 10, 85, 11 in those orders according to the scanner
Okay here are the codes:
Code 10 - Separator between KOEO and KOER tests
Code 11 - Test Passed.
Code 15 - No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure)
This can be from an aftermarket chip plugged into the ECU but you have stated that you do not have one. I would start by making sure you are getting a constant 12V+ to the ECU. If that is confirmed then my guess is that the ECU has problems internally.
Code 85 - Canister Purge solenoid failure
Do you have a charcoal canister and purge solenoid? Is the solenoid connected to the wiring harness? Also, walked away from the computer and then remembered that you can get a Code 15 if you disconnected the battery at some point and have not cleared the codes since then. Really easy way to clear the codes if your code scanner does not have the ability to do it is as follows:
Code 10 - Separator between KOEO and KOER tests
Code 11 - Test Passed.
Code 15 - No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure)
This can be from an aftermarket chip plugged into the ECU but you have stated that you do not have one. I would start by making sure you are getting a constant 12V+ to the ECU. If that is confirmed then my guess is that the ECU has problems internally.
Code 85 - Canister Purge solenoid failure
Do you have a charcoal canister and purge solenoid? Is the solenoid connected to the wiring harness? Also, walked away from the computer and then remembered that you can get a Code 15 if you disconnected the battery at some point and have not cleared the codes since then. Really easy way to clear the codes if your code scanner does not have the ability to do it is as follows:
Last edited:
I removed the smog pump a few years ago so there are some electrical connections that are disconnected. I'm assuming the constant 12v to ECU is all the time regardless if the key is on or off, correct? And whereabouts would I check for constant 12v at the ECM? Also to add, the ECM power relay does activate when key is turned onOkay here are the codes:
Code 10 - Separator between KOEO and KOER tests
Code 11 - Test Passed.
Code 15 - No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure)
This can be from an aftermarket chip plugged into the ECU but you have stated that you do not have one. I would start by making sure you are getting a constant 12V+ to the ECU. If that is confirmed then my guess is that the ECU has problems internally.
Code 85 - Canister Purge solenoid failure
Do you have a charcoal canister and purge solenoid? Is the solenoid connected to the wiring harness? Also, walked away from the computer and then remembered that you can get a Code 15 if you disconnected the battery at some point and have not cleared the codes since then. Really easy way to clear the codes if your code scanner does not have the ability to do it is as follows:
Code 15 is common for ECUs that have had power interruptions.
You've been poking, prodding, and testing so, I wouldn't worry too awful much about the code 15 right away.
So, there [are] codes
Color me amazed after the 1.21 Giga-Million times I've asked people for codes and heard, "none". 
It doesn't guarantee that the ECU is [good] but it does say that it is alive at the very least.
You've been poking, prodding, and testing so, I wouldn't worry too awful much about the code 15 right away.
So, there [are] codes
Color me amazed after the 1.21 Giga-Million times I've asked people for codes and heard, "none". It doesn't guarantee that the ECU is [good] but it does say that it is alive at the very least.
Turn the key to the [On] position and check for power at pin 1 of the ECU.
Crank the car and ensure you still have 9.6+ volts during cranking.
Crank the car and ensure you still have 9.6+ volts during cranking.
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