Did you adjust the timing on the car when you swapped out the tfi again ? Car not going to start if the timing not in right ball park.
1993 LX 5.0 dies after ignition parts replacement
- Thread starter Warhorse85
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I am still going with the ECU has 
the bed but at this point I think you have entered the realm of the one and only..."Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs". If you have not already you need to work your way through this checklist and DO NOT skip around. Work through the list methodically.
the bed but at this point I think you have entered the realm of the one and only..."Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs". If you have not already you need to work your way through this checklist and DO NOT skip around. Work through the list methodically.
At last a reasonable voice, I mean all the parts replacement is just a 'hope I get lucky' form of diagnosis.I am still going with the ECU has
This crap drives me crazy, it's not much different than the old school diagnostic just different tools.
The 'cranks but no start checklist' is the standard for our cars if you're not utilizing it then you're chasing a fart in a windstorm.
First, like the checklist says, try starting fluid, that will tell you spark or no spark, move on from there, do the next step, has worked for years.
Ok so I checked for voltage at pin 1 at the ECU and there is 12v with key on and off and 10v while cranking. I checked voltage and resistances at the TFI connector and wrote them down on a diagram which I will attachOkay here are the codes:
Code 10 - Separator between KOEO and KOER tests
Code 11 - Test Passed.
Code 15 - No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure)
This can be from an aftermarket chip plugged into the ECU but you have stated that you do not have one. I would start by making sure you are getting a constant 12V+ to the ECU. If that is confirmed then my guess is that the ECU has problems internally.
Code 85 - Canister Purge solenoid failure
Do you have a charcoal canister and purge solenoid? Is the solenoid connected to the wiring harness? Also, walked away from the computer and then remembered that you can get a Code 15 if you disconnected the battery at some point and have not cleared the codes since then. Really easy way to clear the codes if your code scanner does not have the ability to do it is as follows:
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I had a similar problem on my 93 Gt 5 speed, found out that when it warmed up I got back fires surging and all that you described. I replaced all the things you did except the map and then replaced the distributor assembly and that was the problem. Internal electrical part cost about $20 to replace- I found out later- but the new distributor works great cost about $130
The OP just needs to stop throwing parts at it and work through the list.
Ok so I believe it is the ECM. I checked resistance between the ignition ground circuit from the TFI plug to chassis ground and the ECM case and got 5k ohms of resistance. Then I went from TFI ignition ground to pin 16 on the ECM and got 0.5 ohms of resistance. Then I went from ignition ground pin 16 on the ECM to chassis ground and still got 5k ohms of resistance. I checked ECM ground to chassis ground and got 1 ohm of resistance.
So at this point I'm assuming there is something wrong with the ignition ground circuit within the ECU board. Also I believe that the ECU is a remanufactured ford ECU
We will all pray for the resurrection of your ECU.
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Mindseye007
5 Year Member
Or stop pissing around and just send it in. 
That thing looks like it's been passed around like a high school baby momma
That thing looks like it's been passed around like a high school baby momma
Whoever replaced it never put the mounting bracket back on it. It was just sitting in the lower A pillar pocket.Or stop pissing around and just send it in.
That thing looks like it's been passed around like a high school baby momma
I made my own bracket for the footwell under the carpet.
I mean, you can see it's there; it's not hiding from anyone but... Racecar
My problem is that it is a reman ECM and the sticker on it says A9L which is for a V8 5 speed and my wifes car is a V8 Automatic which needs the A9P but unsure of the calibrationI made my own bracket for the footwell under the carpet.
I mean, you can see it's there; it's not hiding from anyone but... Racecar
So I circled the capacitors. The one circled in red has 37k ohms of resistance. The one circled in blue has 622 ohms of resistance. The one circled in yellow has 5.6k ohms of resistance. Now in the close up photo of the backside of the ECM, the object I have circled in red has 3.5k ohms of resistance
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