Ok interesting......Since i'm curious now, i've emailed Vortech to ask why their setup is the way it is.
Also, just for anyways sake, here's the instruction manual that tells you how to run that line:
Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 1994 Cobra Supercharger install
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That's the silver canister that came in your kit right? It's a filter. Not a check valve. The arrow in my picture is airflow direction at idle.
Sometimes it's easier to do some hands on experiments if you're curious. Pull that line off your air filter lid. Start the car and put you finger in the hole for a second. You'll feel suction. You might even notice the idle changes as you plug and release it. If you pluged that line with a check valve all the suction you're feeling would be applied to your engine seals and gaskets.
So definitely don't plug it by putting a check valve there. The way you have it is the way they suggested. Thousands have it that way and it's probably fine. But it is technically wrong. Will it cause a driviability problem? Maybe, maybe not.
But don't put a check valve there
Sorry for the thread derail.
Looking at either a UPR boostmaster pipe which is ABS plastic at $149 vs the Anderson power pipe and it looks to be between $320-380, I've seen a few and fi would assume I'd need the 94-95 one.
It has a bypass hose on it I believe both of them do so would I need a bypass hose connected with not having any emissions on the car or running an FMU? It seems I'll have to get the bung welded for my IAT sensor then again I've seen some Andersons with what looks like a bung spot, I just have to make sure whatever I get the bungs are in the right location. That's why I'm doing some research on that right now and trying to get insight. I'll probably have to get the bung for the VC nipple hose to attach to as well as the IAT sensor depending on which way I go.
Now as far as the UPR, I gotta see cause that's plastic. Reading a thread now to see what this guy did.
^I don't have any experience with the 94-95.
Looking at you pic i see how different they are. It's just got to go somewhere in that tube. Doesn't really matter too much where. I'd keep it as far away from the MAF as possible as a rule of thumb. Just not to disrupt its readings. But that's just a suggestion.
I've had mine three ways now.
First was with the entry kit. The elbow that it ships with actually has a bung you can use. I have no idea why it's not utilized. It just needs to be drilled out and a nipple threaded in.
I dont have picture of that. But I do have the elbow from the upgraded discharge pipe with bypass. The large bung on the bottom is for the bypass. The smaller one on top is threaded but sealed off. All you gotta do is drill ot out and put in a threaded hose barb there for your PCV inlet. The entry level kit was almost exactly the same except it didn't have the bypass bung.
Then the UPR. Its plastic and not great to thread into. I epoxyied several layers of thin plastic. Like a plywood construction of plastic/epoxy/plastic/epoxy and let dry to build up the thickness. Then I drilled it out and tapped it with a NPT tap.
The little silver canister is an oil seperator.
While I feel it would hold up, I really didn't like the "makeshift" bung. So i went with the Anderson Powerpipe I posted earlier and welded a bung in for the PCV let.
Then powdercoated it.
Looking at you pic i see how different they are. It's just got to go somewhere in that tube. Doesn't really matter too much where. I'd keep it as far away from the MAF as possible as a rule of thumb. Just not to disrupt its readings. But that's just a suggestion.
I've had mine three ways now.
First was with the entry kit. The elbow that it ships with actually has a bung you can use. I have no idea why it's not utilized. It just needs to be drilled out and a nipple threaded in.
I dont have picture of that. But I do have the elbow from the upgraded discharge pipe with bypass. The large bung on the bottom is for the bypass. The smaller one on top is threaded but sealed off. All you gotta do is drill ot out and put in a threaded hose barb there for your PCV inlet. The entry level kit was almost exactly the same except it didn't have the bypass bung.
Then the UPR. Its plastic and not great to thread into. I epoxyied several layers of thin plastic. Like a plywood construction of plastic/epoxy/plastic/epoxy and let dry to build up the thickness. Then I drilled it out and tapped it with a NPT tap.
The little silver canister is an oil seperator.
While I feel it would hold up, I really didn't like the "makeshift" bung. So i went with the Anderson Powerpipe I posted earlier and welded a bung in for the PCV let.
Then powdercoated it.
Great work and good insight. Dang that part of the installation might be more of a PITA than I anticipated and I wouldn't mine letting Scott do that but he's 2 hrs and change away lol. As for me I will probably just go with Anderson but I'll need to mark the spots for the welder so he can weld a bung for the IAT and a nipple for the hose from the VC.^I don't have any experience with the 94-95.
Looking at you pic i see how different they are. It's just got to go somewhere in that tube. Doesn't really matter too much where. I'd keep it as far away from the MAF as possible as a rule of thumb. Just not to disrupt its readings. But that's just a suggestion.
I've had mine three ways now.
First was with the entry kit. The elbow that it ships with actually has a bung you can use. I have no idea why it's not utilized. It just needs to be drilled out and a nipple threaded in.
I dont have picture of that. But I do have the elbow from the upgraded discharge pipe with bypass. The large bung on the bottom is for the bypass. The smaller one on top is threaded but sealed off. All you gotta do is drill ot out and put in a threaded hose barb there for your PCV inlet. The entry level kit was almost exactly the same except it didn't have the bypass bung.
Then the UPR. Its plastic and not great to thread into. I epoxyied several layers of thin plastic. Like a plywood construction of plastic/epoxy/plastic/epoxy and let dry to build up the thickness. Then I drilled it out and tapped it with a NPT tap.
The little silver canister is an oil seperator.
While I feel it would hold up, I really didn't like the "makeshift" bung. So i went with the Anderson Powerpipe I posted earlier and welded a bung in for the PCV let.
Then powdercoated it.
Also I'll need a spot on the pipe for the bypass valve as well correct, so another spot I'll need to get welded on?
Hey explain to me why you have your oil separator tapped into the power pipe? You might have said it but I'm trying to see as in some people don't have it tapped and the power pipe at all.^I don't have any experience with the 94-95.
Looking at you pic i see how different they are. It's just got to go somewhere in that tube. Doesn't really matter too much where. I'd keep it as far away from the MAF as possible as a rule of thumb. Just not to disrupt its readings. But that's just a suggestion.
I've had mine three ways now.
First was with the entry kit. The elbow that it ships with actually has a bung you can use. I have no idea why it's not utilized. It just needs to be drilled out and a nipple threaded in.
I dont have picture of that. But I do have the elbow from the upgraded discharge pipe with bypass. The large bung on the bottom is for the bypass. The smaller one on top is threaded but sealed off. All you gotta do is drill ot out and put in a threaded hose barb there for your PCV inlet. The entry level kit was almost exactly the same except it didn't have the bypass bung.
Then the UPR. Its plastic and not great to thread into. I epoxyied several layers of thin plastic. Like a plywood construction of plastic/epoxy/plastic/epoxy and let dry to build up the thickness. Then I drilled it out and tapped it with a NPT tap.
The little silver canister is an oil seperator.
While I feel it would hold up, I really didn't like the "makeshift" bung. So i went with the Anderson Powerpipe I posted earlier and welded a bung in for the PCV let.
Then powdercoated it.
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
He pops in and out of Stangnet, so sometimes you might not hear from him for a bit.
I don't think he likes how Vortech/Paxton route that line to upstream of the MAF (as evident in my thread as well) so he suggests tapping the power pipe downstream of the MAF with a catch can so oil vapors don't get into the S/C head unit. So he's suggesting routing that line in between the MAF and head unit.
Maybe if i get a real power pipe down the road that's how i'll do it, but for now i'm going to leave mine hooked into the airbox as the Vortech/Paxton instructions told me to do so. Power pipes aren't CARB legal here in CA so thats something i'll need to figure out later on.
I don't think he likes how Vortech/Paxton route that line to upstream of the MAF (as evident in my thread as well) so he suggests tapping the power pipe downstream of the MAF with a catch can so oil vapors don't get into the S/C head unit. So he's suggesting routing that line in between the MAF and head unit.
Maybe if i get a real power pipe down the road that's how i'll do it, but for now i'm going to leave mine hooked into the airbox as the Vortech/Paxton instructions told me to do so. Power pipes aren't CARB legal here in CA so thats something i'll need to figure out later on.
i'll be back after lunch. Here's a guy on the corral and here's what he said:
I am running the stock pcv valve system on 3 different vortech boosted cars with a breather on the valve cover and no problems on any of them. No catch cans no check valves no special valve cover fittings. All stock location pcv valves in backs of lower intakes and all stock type pcv valve tubing geometry on bottom side of upper intakes.
So I might be fine with this and I think Scott who was going to install everything who has boosted cars and has been building for over 30 years said that as well. But he said make sure there's a baffle in the VC.
You're in the process of putting your supercharger on you haven't gotten it done yet have you? If you have how does your car feel outside of Booth does it feel like just having the supercharger on did anything at all to normal driving outside of boost like you know just taking off and stuff? I know I've been told before that the supercharger is going to automatically add a little something even outside of boost
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
No my supercharger has been on for a little while now. I wrapped up that install in the early summertime.
Outside of boost, like just driving the car around town it feels pretty much like a stock 5.0. I have gears already (3.31's) so its already a little more peppy even in the low rpm range. Its not till like 2,500-3,000rpms where you can feel the boost come on. I think i have only 1 tank of gas with the supercharger on so my memory could be a little shaky but i do know its pretty tame outside of boost.
For what you are getting in the price range that you stated previously, it would be a hard decision. LoL
I know, 3800 out the door vs what for the other ones, whatever options well komo mentioned a vs, twin screw or a TvS but I'm looking them up now for the 94.95 I don't see any.
What's the cost?
And will I need different components on the list other than what I have for the V3
So I guess the twin screw is the Kenny Bell and the TVs is this ?
Eaton TVS style supercharger for small block Ford | Mustang Forums at StangNet https://share.google/Dm10GKscPtn25Q8bV
