Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build
- Thread starter Habu135
- Start date
This explains the crimper that I have that I could not remember what it was for.
Me: Coax cable crimper?
Me: Coax cable crimper?
It's a simple project. Crimper, a screwdriver and some dialectic grease. I trimmed quite a bit of length.
Yeah I was about to say one of my buddies he did a zip tie trick that looked nice and neat and I tried it on my car I think I still have it set up like that currently. Cheap to do lol
From my perspective, if done correctly, no loom or zip tires are required as the wires as pressed against the valve covers on their way to the spark plugs.
Yeah that might be how I have mine currently I'm not sure if I used zip ties when I put the engine back together a few years ago
I'm finally getting around to installing my Trick Flow Box R intake and I quickly realized that my fuel pressure regulator (fpr) is hitting the back right side of the intake. What options do I have to relocate my fpr? And does anyone project any other challenges in store for me on this swap? Is this even worth it for what I assume will be a 10-15 hp gain on a 363 that already makes 400 rwhp.
Last edited:
a buddy on his 410 picked up 35 hp from the Tfs R to the Box R. Not sure you'd see the same number jump but might just....I'm finally getting around to installing my Trick Flow Box R intake and I quickly realized that my fuel pressure regulator (fpr) is hitting the back right side of the intake. What options do I have to relocate my fpr? And does anyone project any other challenges in store for me on this swap? Is this even worth it for what I assume will be a 10-15 hp gain on a 363 that already makes 400 rwhp.
Thanks. Any idea how to go around the fuel pressure regulator being in the way of the intake?
did you google anything on it? I'm sure there's probably plenty who's had the issue. A lot of times I end up going to most of all the forums and read up on an issue I'm messing with on my car. I'll see how soon he responds tho....
what did you change again as the most recent thing to pick up 30 hp, from what to what? If you want to give me an in a nutshell started with and hp/tq all the way to the now along the way that'll be cool.Got the car another tune and dyno. Picked up 30 hp and 40 tqs since last year's dyno. 400/397 is not bad for an "off the shelf" Ford Performance 363.
I just put a V3 on my 200k mile 94 and doing a 331 SC build for my 95. I bought 42's for NA build for the 95 but I'll just SC it from the start vs later a year or 2 later. I might just keep the 42s in case I ever do a NA build which would have to be a strong setup because I'd want no less than around 400 whp. I'm thinking it'll have to be a 351 or 363 setup to achieve that for a nice weekend streetcar, no track.
Current intake setup is the R Series (lower photo). Box R uses the same intake. Removed the R series upper yesterday and trial fitted the Box R and immediately noticed my Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator hitting the right rear of rhe upper Box R. I would think there's some kit to relocate it, but I haven't found one yet after searching LMR, Googling and other Mustang sites.
oh gotcha. You selling the Tfs R?
he replied and said you must be using the oem fuel rails. He had an aeromotive rail I know. If you don't get any answers you might need to contact aeromotive tomorrow.
Put this in your browser and check out the AI overview- mustang forums and facebook groups using box r intake the fp regulator is hitting the intake using oem fuel rails, what is the fix is there some kind of adapter
you might find some topics as well and saw one on the corral with " will my stock fuel rails work with Box R"
i When you got the FR crate 363 you just needed to add the intake, injectors, tb, and I see you're running a holley so you didn't need a meter, and what else am I missing? What was the first dyno number?
I will be selling the R Series once I get the Box R to work.
I've documented most everything on this progress build to include the build list. If you go back and review my posts you'll see.
I picked up 30 hp due to a number of factors. The engine was broken in during the second dyno. The engine installer initially overfilled the engine with 10 quarts of oil rather than the correct 7 qts. It had 10 qts during the first tune, 7 during the second tune. I did some exhaust work, and my tuner made peak timing lower in the rpm range during the second tune as suggested by Trick Flow's instructions. The included dyno sheet shows results from both dyno sessions.
Last edited:
Similar threads
