I'll say...I'm thinking that I'll give it as much attention as I can and if it keeps phcking w/ me, the turbo will have to go.Here's hoping you dont need to glue together LS heads to make your car run "right."
OK Mike I looked over the log and made a few changes to get the AFR closer to target. I pulled the timing in boost all the way down to 10* we are now pulling more than 2* per psi.....Well, the Monster is legit. He is a bonafide street car.
I decided against the personalized plate. The reason for that was simple. I did not want to have to explain a bazillion times what it meant when only the twelve of us know why it's called GMONSTR.
Other contributing factors were that the state of Alabama decided to charge me for all three years that the car has been in my possession despite the fact that it has been non-running.
So,...I paid $171.00 to license the Monster today,..when I was expecting 70.
I intend to modify the coverage I put on the Monster to include a stated value policy, But for the sake of what I wanted to accomplish today, all I needed was proof of ins.
It did drive the distance. There and back was about a 20 mile round trip. I'm starting to become concerned that what I think are 3.55's are way deeper than that. It seem that the car runs at 2400-2600 RPM at what I think is 70 MPH. I still need to properly calibrate the speedo to be sure,..but it's like the engine is spinning way to high to be in 4th gear to be a 3.55.
I'll have to look into that more.
After I got it back I removed the Autolite 65 plugs (which looked perfect,..IDK why I decided to go colder0 But I installed a set of 64's that I have had since day 1. I gapped them to .032, and then took the car for a drive.
This thing detonates so bad when you try to put your foot on the floor that had these been hyperU craptic pistons, they'd be broken by now. I'm only talkin about 1 second of that, but there is clearly something wrong.
When I roll into the throttle, as long as I keep it at about 1/2 throttle, it pings. Stand on it, and it freakin rattles.
Here's my new Auto- Hypochondriacism.
Along time ago I was building a Clevor that I intended to put nitrous on.I planned to use a open chamber 2v head. After reading and talkin to people, I learned that the lack of a "quench area" would cause the engine to detonate very easily.
Consequently,..I bailed on the Clevor thing, and just went w/ a conventional Windsor head instead. I never got to see for myself whether or not that head was gonna cause rampant detonation.
This is a pic of that chamber.
And this is the closed chamber version of that head. The flat area is necessary to promote a clean burn, as it forces more complete combustion as a result a tighter packed mixture.
Now,......this is the Monster's camber:
I'm not seeing no quench.
I knew this in the back of my head, but gave it little consideration. Now it may be that this is why the thing is rattling.
Then again,..It could just be tune related. Time will tell I guess.
If that turns out to be the case,..it'll be the death nail for any boost north of probably 5 P.S.I. as this all ties back to lack of quench being intolerant of high cylinder pressure.
No,...that is a Barra. Engine has a DOHC head,...Different architecture similar to a mod motor w/cross bolted mains.Where the Aussies not running that same head with TONs of Boost funneling through it?
Gotcha, I was trying to remember some of the key points about that cylinder head-I'll go back and read itNo,...that is a Barra. Engine has a DOHC head,...Different architecture similar to a mod motor w/cross bolted mains.
This is a Barra in stock configGotcha, I was trying to remember some of the key points about that cylinder head-I'll go back and read it
I know a guy with cylinder heads and a willingness to provide LS parts to stangnet membersNope,..not from what I understand. The only cure is to not try and pound a bunch of cylinder pressure in there.
The other option,.....waaaaaayyyy down the road,...and probably NEVER......is this:
That is a sectioned pair of LS heads on a Ford 300 six banger.
The engine is longer than my 250,..so a LS bolt pattern will probably NOT work,...but the power this thing could make.
Yeah,.....that would only go as far as checking the bore spacing to find out that the 250 is not the same as a 300.I know a guy with cylinder heads and a willingness to provide LS parts to stangnet members
I'm thinking that before any talk of ditching this or that, a fully documented trip to a professional tuner might be in order.
Now, I've been to tuners that read the steps off of a set of cards no doubt, but I've also been to tuners that knew how to diagnose and apply effective changes. You got any of those near you Mike?
So do I. Just like that cowl is gonna look when I paint it.Good luck today, hope you get some good insight. Also, meant to tell you yesterday, but I think the exhaust looks better in black than it did in orange.
I just talked to Reed at Work turbo where I got my turbo from.Fwiw I can see the detonation in the datalog. It comes in as a transient in the afr. However without the car in front of me it is difficult to troubleshoot issues.
I was told by someone else who knows their sht to build my tune the same wayEdit: deleted post.
10-4 Mike.
I will rebuild the tune again, I am going to give you tune based on an ls engine. Maybe we will have better luck that way.
Cylinder head is way different than I expected.
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