Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Dodge parts. That's what it needs, karthief and CarMichael Angelo.
All Fords from 1905 to 1913 had a large percentage of Dodge parts in them.
Twins, and fours, but also sixes. Like the 1905-1908 6 cylinder Model K. The six to end all sixes, for 33 long years till 1941.
But again I digress.
Lookes like it had
1. an Independent Runner Intake,
2. external pipe cooling system, sleeved cylinders,
3. and is that EDIS down in the brass pandoras box...?
Hey its practically the Monsta's engine, right?
I say drop in a coyote and be done with it
Sometimes bellybuttons can look pretty nice.
I remember the article by the photo.....it was part of a survey conducted by a Navel Surgeon.....
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Dodge parts. That's what it needs.
All Fords from 1905 to 1913 had a large percentage of Dodge parts in them.
Like the 1905-1908 6 cylinder Model K. Lookes like it had
1. an Independent Runner Intake,
2. external pipe cooling system, sleeved cylinders,
3. and is that EDIS down in the brass pandoras box...?
Hey its practically the Monsta's engine, right?
I remember the article by the photo.....it was part of a survey conducted by a Navel Surgeon.....
You are easily as bad as I am.
Did someone say "Shenanigans"?
IMHO, I think "Dodgey" is the accepted term for all you guys.
An Australian term. 1. Something or someone that is a bit suspicious, doesn't seem quite right. Doesn't seem the real deal. 2. Slack, broken, worthless or useless. 3. Not very appealing.
4. "he dodged the issue"; "she skirted the problem"; "they tend to evade their responsibilities"; "he evaded the questions skillfully".
5. Dodgem. A small low-powered electrically powered vehicle ...
Usually those that deny it, are worse...
Now Mike needs to out Fox us all and get his Dodgey, Bodgey conrod into Tough as Billy Goats Knees territory.
Sorry for the interlude, but ya'll all agree, its been worth it....
XIT stage right (um, left)
Don't feed me. (The Billy Goat is above the bridge, and has a Pet Monsta, and a pretty good hit average).Mike will make his sales target, earn more money with his life stories alone. I'm just here to eat up bandwidth, troll, drop some Jpegs and pilot the
Tonight we officially celebrated our anniversary, despite the fact that we were married on NY eves' day.
(What the fck were we thinking?)
After 32 years of not getting a table,....having to deal with a set NY's eve $75.00 ea.dinner menu that included "party favors" and a champagne toast at midnight,.. crappy food, expensive drinks, loud debauchery,..and the occasional over indulgence on one or the others' part......We finally wised up.
You go out to dinner the weekend after the first of the year.
I'm gonna clean the block up tomorrow and check the ring fit. I'll paint the block, install the cranky, the cam and timing chain, and the 5 pistons that aren't fcked up. On Monday, I'll take the weird #5 rod back down to the machine shop for an opinion as to why it has spread so wide that you can't get the cap back on.... (I'm thinkin that they'll have to keep that thing for 10 days too)... That is...IF it ain't trash.
If I have time to find an adequate valve spring compressor,...I'll disassemble the head so I can port that thing.
One way or the other, I gotta wait on either the sale of the turbo stuff, or the 15th when I get paid, to be able to buy the individual throttle bodies.....in between, i'm piddlin.
(What the fck were we thinking?)
After 32 years of not getting a table,....having to deal with a set NY's eve $75.00 ea.dinner menu that included "party favors" and a champagne toast at midnight,.. crappy food, expensive drinks, loud debauchery,..and the occasional over indulgence on one or the others' part......We finally wised up.
You go out to dinner the weekend after the first of the year.
I'm gonna clean the block up tomorrow and check the ring fit. I'll paint the block, install the cranky, the cam and timing chain, and the 5 pistons that aren't fcked up. On Monday, I'll take the weird #5 rod back down to the machine shop for an opinion as to why it has spread so wide that you can't get the cap back on.... (I'm thinkin that they'll have to keep that thing for 10 days too)... That is...IF it ain't trash.
If I have time to find an adequate valve spring compressor,...I'll disassemble the head so I can port that thing.
One way or the other, I gotta wait on either the sale of the turbo stuff, or the 15th when I get paid, to be able to buy the individual throttle bodies.....in between, i'm piddlin.
I guess I’m gonna have to go back a few pages and get caught up here.
ITBs will be sweet though.
ITBs will be sweet though.
Well Im back at it.
I washed the block, crank, and the pistons. I checked the ring fit...most of them were a tight .020. The 5, and #6 cylinders were way tighter than that. (what's that tell you about how loose the two rear cylinders were?)
I fussed around with the rings until they were all a tight .020.
Then went about installing them on my clean and dry pistons. I reinstalled the old main bearings, reused the old rear main seal. (it was like new),...and got out my nifty Summit cone style piston ring compressor.
Then I sat there for about a half hour trying to decide which way the piston/rod went back in the hole, and ultimately on the crank...(there's no mark on the piston,. since it's a banger,...the rod big end looks the same on both sides.
So whatya gonna do?
I looked on line, and a pic showed a rod (like mine) with the pin oiling hole oriented so that with the piston attached, the oil hole was on the passenger side of the engine. That was good enough for me...
I tried to use my Summit thingy,......No worky. It let the oil ring expeand as soon as it got by the damn thing..I ended up using the Lisle corrugated strap style compressor I used last time to put the engine together. I installed the 5 pistons that had normally fitting rod caps.
I left the #5 piston/rod sitting on the bench..
It's the cap that's the problem...I slid the #6 cap on it to check it, and it slid on,....I tried to slide the #5 cap on the #6 rod and it was just as bad....clearly that cap has spread somehow.
I installed the cam, lifters, and timing chain....I hope that I marked the clocking position of the crank/cam gear well enough to be in the same place that it was....( I think it's where it's sposed to be)
Then I dropped in those lifters, and went about the process of relinking them once they were inside the holes..You can get 5 pairs in there....one of them has to be put in one at a time, and secured with a lock nut.
If the #5 rod ain't phck'd,I'll have the whole short together tomorrow. I'm gonna see if I can't get a valve spring compressor at Autozone that I can use to remove the valves for porting the head...Maybe I'll get started on that If I can get the damn springs off the head..They are monsters...like 380# fully open...I'm thinking that Autozone weanie assed compressor is gonna break.
I washed the block, crank, and the pistons. I checked the ring fit...most of them were a tight .020. The 5, and #6 cylinders were way tighter than that. (what's that tell you about how loose the two rear cylinders were?)
I fussed around with the rings until they were all a tight .020.
Then went about installing them on my clean and dry pistons. I reinstalled the old main bearings, reused the old rear main seal. (it was like new),...and got out my nifty Summit cone style piston ring compressor.
Then I sat there for about a half hour trying to decide which way the piston/rod went back in the hole, and ultimately on the crank...(there's no mark on the piston,. since it's a banger,...the rod big end looks the same on both sides.
So whatya gonna do?
I looked on line, and a pic showed a rod (like mine) with the pin oiling hole oriented so that with the piston attached, the oil hole was on the passenger side of the engine. That was good enough for me...
I tried to use my Summit thingy,......No worky. It let the oil ring expeand as soon as it got by the damn thing..I ended up using the Lisle corrugated strap style compressor I used last time to put the engine together. I installed the 5 pistons that had normally fitting rod caps.
I left the #5 piston/rod sitting on the bench..
It's the cap that's the problem...I slid the #6 cap on it to check it, and it slid on,....I tried to slide the #5 cap on the #6 rod and it was just as bad....clearly that cap has spread somehow.
I installed the cam, lifters, and timing chain....I hope that I marked the clocking position of the crank/cam gear well enough to be in the same place that it was....( I think it's where it's sposed to be)
Then I dropped in those lifters, and went about the process of relinking them once they were inside the holes..You can get 5 pairs in there....one of them has to be put in one at a time, and secured with a lock nut.
If the #5 rod ain't phck'd,I'll have the whole short together tomorrow. I'm gonna see if I can't get a valve spring compressor at Autozone that I can use to remove the valves for porting the head...Maybe I'll get started on that If I can get the damn springs off the head..They are monsters...like 380# fully open...I'm thinking that Autozone weanie assed compressor is gonna break.
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At least I think this looks good albeit that the crank radius is a little tight.
.......
This was No5 ?
October 1976, Ford changed the 250 rod and bearing, downdgraded to your fat embossed D6 castings, and the bearings got a different crush radius.
1975 250 rods are still listed as C9DE-A, and the D5DE-6211-AA-BA bearings and rod caps fit the forged 4 cylinder OHV 2.5 liter engine the 1989 Ford Taurus had in it, the National Lampoon that Chevy Chase piloted.
"Theth conwods arwe the thymbol of the thpirit of the Matosky famwily Chrithmath."
Recapping your other odd ball options again....
1. Buy 6 other C9DE-A forged conrods, bush and prep them, and be ultra happy.
2. Consider the FORD/MERCURY 153ci/2.5L 86-91 Connecting Rod : HSC/OHV which is 5.990" and cast E63E-B1A's are the same price. 5.990 minus 5.885" is 105 thou to deck off all six pistons.
Lavron said:I was messing with comparing the rods today and pulled one of the rod bearings out, pretty sure they are the original.
And I know this is a crude way to show the difference in length but I don't have a way to press the wrist pin out, so the "precision" ruler is sitting against the pin and then you can see on the other one I was measuring from edge to edge on the holes.
A bit of difference in length, hopefully I have solved my quench issues if I can keep from getting the CR too high.
I also was checking to see if the rod bolts were the same because I am wanting to have ARP bolts installed and I wasn't sure what to order, looks like regular SBF bolts will work, have to see if I can find a 6cyl set so I don't have to buy the 4 extra, expensive bolts - I think we know why that isI switched the rod caps and nuts as suggested here to see if they were a match, I was pretty confident they would but better safe than sorry.
Everything looks good for ignition!
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It could've been...Every rod cap bottom bearing looked like that,....every top bearing was shiny at the top of the bearing in the top most part of the radius..( I just assumed that it was from boost pushing down so hard on the rod..)
The 5 pistons are back in and torqued...it's highly unlikely that I'll remove them at this juncture. Im taking the rod back to the machine shop this morning,....along with the cap and bearings. I'll let dude tell me what he thinks happened, and guess as to why the cap has spread.
I shoulda just sourced the better castings when I built the thing the first time around, ( when I had money coming out of my butt)
but again,....I listened to the Piston guy that told me that I already had forged rods...
So,...what else is in store for me today then?....
I'm boxing up the MLS gasket, and sending it back. I'm exchanging it for a .040 thou version of the composite gasket that was in there before. No reason to use the leak prone MLS gasket if I have no more HG failure concerns.
I'm getting a spring compressor to see if I can remove the springs on the head to prep them for porting...
If I can,....then I'll apply some Die Grindage to the ports until I'm sick of that.....(or they're done,....whichever comes first.)
Im starting to get the typical replies to my CL listings on the turbo stuff......
" My fiance' said to please send the details and price of my auto post to [email protected],...He's paying, plus he's currently at work."
Sounds like your typical off shore scammer to me....
Then another guys blasts me with 20 text questions about the turbo,...tells me he lives in my town, and then the last question (which evidently was the deal breaker for him........)
"JB or BB?"
JB......
"Oh, OK"
That's it. No sorry, was looking for a BB turbo instead...(which would've been my first question if it was that important)...just
Oh OK.
Craigslist.......Evidence of what the smart phone is doing to society.
Craigslist is definitely a pain in the ass. I only sell things I dont want to ship on CL. Orherwise I sell on Ebay, which has bitten me in the ass also. There is no real good way to sell used stuff hassle free.
Im pretty much at the point where Id rather just throw stuff away than sell it. Not worth the BS that comes along with it anymore.
Is that why I keep holding on to decades old computer parts? Nostalgia at its ultimate height!.
I'm here to tell you, the "walking dead" are real........
Tonight I'm one of them.
After standing on my feet for 6 hours straight on a concrete floor, while hunched over a work bench, grinding aluminum, mixed with carbon has killed me dead...:zombie:
My feet are dead,...my back is dead,...my knees are dead,...I'm a zombie.
Anybody got any brains?
When I was among the living this morning, I did like I said I was gonna do....I dropped the rod off at the machine shop, I mailed off the MLS HG back to cometic for an exchange,...I stopped in at O'reillys and rented a spring compressor.
Then went back home to see if it would do the job....
Not unless I wanted to kill myself when one of the springs shot out of the piece of sht while trying to compress a spring rated at 380# open pressure.
I called my friend who owns the shop where I've built a few of my race cars in the past.
I caught him in the middle of doing what he does...
Putting a $38k 862 c.i. chevy engine into a fox notch.
My head was not even remotely interesting to the few that were hanging around...
Nonetheless,..He gave me what I needed, helped me get the springs off, and sent me on my way,...
So I could go home,....and die.
I started with the exhaust ports,...and had all 6 of them in a roughed state in about an hour....
Then that little compressor I bought last year threw in the towel...( I guess that running non-stop for a couple of hours is a bad thing when you're a little compressor)
That left me with lots of time,...and nothing to do the work with....Except a drill.
I chucked up the aluminum burr, got one of the 1.5" exhaust valves to use as a "go/no-go" fit gauge and proceeded to hog out intake port # 1.
And spent the rest of the afternoon doing the same,......damn,.......port.. ( evidently, a die grinding burr needs to spin faster than what a drill motor does if you expect the thing to work....couple that to the fact that I've had these burrs for 20 years,...and what you get is something along the lines of a waste of time.)
I decided to waste my time for about 3 hours straight.
I still have a lot of work here before I can call it finished...I spent most of my efforts on raising the roof, and back side wall where you can see (and feel) the exposed port inside the head. I'm focusing on increasing cross sectional area trying to get the port bigger than 1.3" inside diameter..( It's now about 1.5" up to the part where it turns down to go the the valve seat)
I'm only going for 1.5"...... I know that I cannot go bigger w/o risking breaking through.
When I come back to life,...after I've taken my dead compressor back to Lowes,..I'll work on the other 5 ports.
I'm conflicted on what to do with Medusa...
This thing weighs as much as a cast iron exhaust manifold..(actually more...think 30'lbs)
Since this is something I'll never sell,...I'm planning on using it, or parts of it for the N/A exhaust header.
If I cut the merge collector off where the turbo flange, and re-purpose that, I'd make a new merge collector setup, and siamese the two banks together into a 3" bend that will make a ram's horn connection to the exiting V band flange where the turbo used to connect to the turbo outlet.
Otherwise,..I'll cut it all away, and use the flange only. The thin wall bends that I bought for the intake will make up a new header...It'll save about 20 pounds in the grand scheme, but will cost me $100.00, and a few days cutting, fitting, welding, and grinding (I have no tig anymore)
I'm inclined to use the heavy assed thing, and modify it. I can send the bend back for a refund.
Tonight I'm one of them.
After standing on my feet for 6 hours straight on a concrete floor, while hunched over a work bench, grinding aluminum, mixed with carbon has killed me dead...:zombie:
My feet are dead,...my back is dead,...my knees are dead,...I'm a zombie.
Anybody got any brains?
When I was among the living this morning, I did like I said I was gonna do....I dropped the rod off at the machine shop, I mailed off the MLS HG back to cometic for an exchange,...I stopped in at O'reillys and rented a spring compressor.
Then went back home to see if it would do the job....
Not unless I wanted to kill myself when one of the springs shot out of the piece of sht while trying to compress a spring rated at 380# open pressure.
I called my friend who owns the shop where I've built a few of my race cars in the past.
I caught him in the middle of doing what he does...
Putting a $38k 862 c.i. chevy engine into a fox notch.
My head was not even remotely interesting to the few that were hanging around...
Nonetheless,..He gave me what I needed, helped me get the springs off, and sent me on my way,...
So I could go home,....and die.
I started with the exhaust ports,...and had all 6 of them in a roughed state in about an hour....
Then that little compressor I bought last year threw in the towel...( I guess that running non-stop for a couple of hours is a bad thing when you're a little compressor)
That left me with lots of time,...and nothing to do the work with....Except a drill.
I chucked up the aluminum burr, got one of the 1.5" exhaust valves to use as a "go/no-go" fit gauge and proceeded to hog out intake port # 1.
And spent the rest of the afternoon doing the same,......damn,.......port.. ( evidently, a die grinding burr needs to spin faster than what a drill motor does if you expect the thing to work....couple that to the fact that I've had these burrs for 20 years,...and what you get is something along the lines of a waste of time.)
I decided to waste my time for about 3 hours straight.
I still have a lot of work here before I can call it finished...I spent most of my efforts on raising the roof, and back side wall where you can see (and feel) the exposed port inside the head. I'm focusing on increasing cross sectional area trying to get the port bigger than 1.3" inside diameter..( It's now about 1.5" up to the part where it turns down to go the the valve seat)
I'm only going for 1.5"...... I know that I cannot go bigger w/o risking breaking through.
When I come back to life,...after I've taken my dead compressor back to Lowes,..I'll work on the other 5 ports.
I'm conflicted on what to do with Medusa...
This thing weighs as much as a cast iron exhaust manifold..(actually more...think 30'lbs)
Since this is something I'll never sell,...I'm planning on using it, or parts of it for the N/A exhaust header.
If I cut the merge collector off where the turbo flange, and re-purpose that, I'd make a new merge collector setup, and siamese the two banks together into a 3" bend that will make a ram's horn connection to the exiting V band flange where the turbo used to connect to the turbo outlet.
Otherwise,..I'll cut it all away, and use the flange only. The thin wall bends that I bought for the intake will make up a new header...It'll save about 20 pounds in the grand scheme, but will cost me $100.00, and a few days cutting, fitting, welding, and grinding (I have no tig anymore)
I'm inclined to use the heavy assed thing, and modify it. I can send the bend back for a refund.
@CarMichael Angelo
Do you have any tinges of regret for leaving you 60 gallon air compressor behind?
Do you have any tinges of regret for leaving you 60 gallon air compressor behind?
HotFox
15 Year Member
Build a t3 to pipe adapter and put a pipe right through the hood!
Then you will be able to hear that engine rev. Maybe add a propane kit to throw some flames out of the pipe. That would be neat!
Then you will be able to hear that engine rev. Maybe add a propane kit to throw some flames out of the pipe. That would be neat!
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