Well................just learned something new on an iPad. Holding any text button longer than a normal strike, gives you a different character choice. Can't say it makes any sense...i.e. holding down the ./? key puts a quotation mark there...( you'd think it'd be the question mark ) All of these devices go so far beyond what 95% of the users want out of them because they pack all of this junk in there and then charge stupid money for it.
They need to make an COPO Camaro version of one of these things...allow you to choose what you want/need and nothing that you don't. and then sell it like a factory ordered radio delete hotrod. No pwr anything, no AC, manual steering, nothin else.... Just a big honkin engine, 4 speed trans, and a 4.11 posi-trac loaded 12 bolt. I'd have a stripper iPad,..no keys with two functions, or 50 bagillion icons that you never use just a big, fast processor, connection capabilities for wifi, Bluetooth, and cellular, and the stinkin ability to load actual computer programs in it... I'd be Da Done Dah
Finished the water meth install last night. I did move the nozzle to the elbow in front of the throttle body, and that required that I make a thread reducer. ( nozzle is 1/8 npt, hole in the elbow is 1/4 npt) I made the thing out of another brass fitting that I had to cut, drill, tap and grind to make work. It took about an hour all toll. The good thing about doing that instead of just going to the parts store and buying a reducer premade is that this thing is now just thick enough to hold the nozzle, and allows the tip to protrude into the elbow instead of it 1/4" too high, which would've possibly diminished the spray pattern.
Now all I gotta do is test the thing to be sure that it works, and put the nozzle back in the elbow permanently.
The intercooler is still hanging under the fender.
The whole rest of the car is a jug phck. The dash is partly tore apart, the passenger seat is out of it, and there is the typical wiring mess that has to be cleaned up before I can even consider taking it out and testing it.
And.................. There's the whole " changing the tune thingy" I gotta do too.
I decided to let the MS activate the system. I've ran a wire to the last remaining spare output I have, and set it up in TS. I thought that I was gonna be able to set multiple conditions to control its activation, but could only set two.
I chose a MAP based condition ( > 145 kpa) which in my case means greater than 6.8 psi of boost, and TPS, (>85%). So, if it works like its sposed to, nothing will happen if both of those conditions aren't met. I set no hysteris buffers either..it activates only when the throttle is at least 85% open, and boost is greater than 6.8 pounds.
At least that's what I think I've done.
I still have to lean out the same portions of the fuel map, and add timing back to the spark map to take advantage of what I've done here. I'm currently about 11.8 AFR at 6.8 psi, and it gets progressively fatter as the boost numbers go north of that, eventually ending up at 11.3.
I think I'm gonna paint that whole section, and make a blanket .75 of a point bump to those numbers to start.
That should leave the high boost numbers seeing just north of 12:1 AFR.
And I resume listening for the rattle.
Timing,....
...To melt, or not to melt.....ill start with +2 degrees. I think from what I've read, this is where power is gonna come back. Currently I'm a 16 degrees at 11 psi....
Can you say "a 500 horsepower 6 banger?" Especially considering that this engine made 99 whole whopping ponies when it was factory fresh in the '78 Maverick that I drug this engine out of?
Of course you can....it's easy.....It sounds just like...........
BooM!
But,...today is the Sunday, on the week after Thanksgiving.
The wife gets all "Christmassy" at these times...and this year want an 8-10 tall real tree. ( yeah,...I know,..10 feet tall). The new house has skylights right in the middle of it, and she figures she's gonna stick that thing right there..
I only think I'm gonna work on the car today.
They need to make an COPO Camaro version of one of these things...allow you to choose what you want/need and nothing that you don't. and then sell it like a factory ordered radio delete hotrod. No pwr anything, no AC, manual steering, nothin else.... Just a big honkin engine, 4 speed trans, and a 4.11 posi-trac loaded 12 bolt. I'd have a stripper iPad,..no keys with two functions, or 50 bagillion icons that you never use just a big, fast processor, connection capabilities for wifi, Bluetooth, and cellular, and the stinkin ability to load actual computer programs in it... I'd be Da Done Dah
Finished the water meth install last night. I did move the nozzle to the elbow in front of the throttle body, and that required that I make a thread reducer. ( nozzle is 1/8 npt, hole in the elbow is 1/4 npt) I made the thing out of another brass fitting that I had to cut, drill, tap and grind to make work. It took about an hour all toll. The good thing about doing that instead of just going to the parts store and buying a reducer premade is that this thing is now just thick enough to hold the nozzle, and allows the tip to protrude into the elbow instead of it 1/4" too high, which would've possibly diminished the spray pattern.
Now all I gotta do is test the thing to be sure that it works, and put the nozzle back in the elbow permanently.
The intercooler is still hanging under the fender.
The whole rest of the car is a jug phck. The dash is partly tore apart, the passenger seat is out of it, and there is the typical wiring mess that has to be cleaned up before I can even consider taking it out and testing it.
And.................. There's the whole " changing the tune thingy" I gotta do too.
I decided to let the MS activate the system. I've ran a wire to the last remaining spare output I have, and set it up in TS. I thought that I was gonna be able to set multiple conditions to control its activation, but could only set two.
I chose a MAP based condition ( > 145 kpa) which in my case means greater than 6.8 psi of boost, and TPS, (>85%). So, if it works like its sposed to, nothing will happen if both of those conditions aren't met. I set no hysteris buffers either..it activates only when the throttle is at least 85% open, and boost is greater than 6.8 pounds.
At least that's what I think I've done.
I still have to lean out the same portions of the fuel map, and add timing back to the spark map to take advantage of what I've done here. I'm currently about 11.8 AFR at 6.8 psi, and it gets progressively fatter as the boost numbers go north of that, eventually ending up at 11.3.
I think I'm gonna paint that whole section, and make a blanket .75 of a point bump to those numbers to start.
That should leave the high boost numbers seeing just north of 12:1 AFR.
And I resume listening for the rattle.
Timing,....
...To melt, or not to melt.....ill start with +2 degrees. I think from what I've read, this is where power is gonna come back. Currently I'm a 16 degrees at 11 psi....Can you say "a 500 horsepower 6 banger?" Especially considering that this engine made 99 whole whopping ponies when it was factory fresh in the '78 Maverick that I drug this engine out of?
Of course you can....it's easy.....It sounds just like...........
BooM!
But,...today is the Sunday, on the week after Thanksgiving.
The wife gets all "Christmassy" at these times...and this year want an 8-10 tall real tree. ( yeah,...I know,..10 feet tall). The new house has skylights right in the middle of it, and she figures she's gonna stick that thing right there..
I only think I'm gonna work on the car today.
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? Did you already move that nozzle? Do we have video of smoky burnouts?
