I have a ford specific code reader and there are no codes presentWhen you say, "no codes"; what does that mean exactly?
Did you get the "no codes" code?
Your car is an automatic so this TFI is made for a foxbody 5.0 with an Automatic trans. It's a Heavy Duty Version from Rockauto...Has fuel pressure, new tfi, coil, maf, egr, cap rotor, plugs and wires. Crank/no start
I have a ford specific code reader and there are no codes present
I am not buying another TFI. I've already bought 2 in the past weekYour car is an automatic so this TFI is made for a foxbody 5.0 with an Automatic trans. It's a Heavy Duty Version from Rockauto...
So what would that mean?This is not good. You should get a code 11 on KEOR and KOEO. Code 11 = PASS
Actually Iied, there was a code that related to the smog pump. I deleted it a few years ago.That means you should ensure power and ground for the EEC. If you have both, then you need to get yours repaired or swap it with a good one.
Did you reset the timing on the car when you installed the new tfi?Replaced TFI, charged battery, tightened terminals on ignition switch connector. Still no start
Did you pull the ECU and check the capacitors?I am not buying another TFI. I've already bought 2 in the past week
I think the 2 you bought are probally cooked buy that TFI testor off ebay and see.I am not buying another TFI. I've already bought 2 in the past week
What I meant was, I bought 2 already. I just installed the second new one and still no startI think the 2 you bought are probally cooked buy that TFI testor off ebay and see.
So I replaced the TFI for a second time last night, still cranks with no start. Charged battery overnight and reset ECM this morning. Checked for codes and got 85, 10, 15. Tried to start it and still cranks with no start. Checked codes again and got 10, 85, 11 in those orders according to the scannerCan you do a quick recap of where you are at right now? Lots of moving parts and I think we are missing something.
I removed the smog pump a few years ago so there are some electrical connections that are disconnected. I'm assuming the constant 12v to ECU is all the time regardless if the key is on or off, correct? And whereabouts would I check for constant 12v at the ECM? Also to add, the ECM power relay does activate when key is turned onOkay here are the codes:
Code 10 - Separator between KOEO and KOER tests
Code 11 - Test Passed.
Code 15 - No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure)
This can be from an aftermarket chip plugged into the ECU but you have stated that you do not have one. I would start by making sure you are getting a constant 12V+ to the ECU. If that is confirmed then my guess is that the ECU has problems internally.
Code 85 - Canister Purge solenoid failure
Do you have a charcoal canister and purge solenoid? Is the solenoid connected to the wiring harness? Also, walked away from the computer and then remembered that you can get a Code 15 if you disconnected the battery at some point and have not cleared the codes since then. Really easy way to clear the codes if your code scanner does not have the ability to do it is as follows:
Easy way to clear codes: connect the jumper wire up like you are going to dump the codes. Then turn the key to Run and when the test light or Check Engine Light starts to flash, disconnect the jumper. This clears the stored codes but does not erase the adaptive settings that the computer "learned".
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