I have a 5.0 pulled from a 1995 mustang with the wiring harnesses and computer. I can not find anything for this year engine. I would like to save myself 700 bucks by doing it alone... I have the ability to do the work but I can not find anything on what to delete and what the 5.0 has to maintain in order to run. The engine is going into a 1966 mustang and needs to be a standalone harness. I am not using A/C and do not need the emissions. If anyone has done this before please get back to me! If I can't make the wiring for this work my next option is go carb but that's almost 600 too.
1995 Mustang 5.0 HO standalone harness
- Thread starter ChaseLomax66
- Start date
Sponsors(?)
StangNet created a new car social app called knowmoto! Add your Mustang or post a photo in the knowmoto app and enter for a chance at a $100 gift card from LMR. Click the LMR Logo for more about the knowmoto Mega Thread!
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,004
- 5,158
- 203
- 43
The 95 computer is one of the worse ones for a swap. To get that 66 running right it is going to take some work. In your case it would be easier to go carburated. You need the temp sensors, o2 sensors, coolant temp sensor, maf sensor, etc.
The issue with stripping the harness is the computer looks for certain things and changes strategies if it doesn't see them. A coolant sensor delete can cause rich issues.....egr position delete can cause timing issues.
I'm not the wiring harness guru.... I just know enough to get by. If you had a megasquirt or mspnp2 you could delete a bunch of stuff including the maf.
The issue with stripping the harness is the computer looks for certain things and changes strategies if it doesn't see them. A coolant sensor delete can cause rich issues.....egr position delete can cause timing issues.
I'm not the wiring harness guru.... I just know enough to get by. If you had a megasquirt or mspnp2 you could delete a bunch of stuff including the maf.
GTFO, we don't do carb swaps here on Stangnet. The computer is only as good as the tune you put on it. The SN95 is no different from any other from that perspective. The FI market is so large, there is no cost advantage to going carb these days. You can throw a microsquirt on it cheap.
Kurt
Honestly, it would be easier to go with a microsquirt with 8’ wiring lead and build your own harness.
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,004
- 5,158
- 203
- 43
I'm with the microsquirt idea. That would be the best bang for the buck and has the ability to run just about anything. If you decided to change directions you could sell the microsquirt to a larger amount of people....or you could use it to run another project. Under 400 bucks...fully tunable.
www.maperformance.com
MAPerformance is a good company but someone here may be able to point in another direction.
I bought directly from diyautotune and had a good experience.
www.diyautotune.com
MegaSquirt MicroSquirt ECU w/ 8' Wiring Harness (MicroSqrt8)
MicroSquirt ECU with 8' Wiring Harness by MegaSquirt The versatile MicroSquirt with 8′ Harness: Standalone Engine Management System, Transmission Controller or CAN I/O Expansion Module- Version 3.0 MicroSquirt with 8′ Harness is an entry-level, fully assembled ECU and universal 8' pigtail with...
www.maperformance.com
MAPerformance is a good company but someone here may be able to point in another direction.
I bought directly from diyautotune and had a good experience.
You searched for Micrisquirt - DIYAutoTune.com
www.diyautotune.com
okay, I was thinking carb as the next step. what do I need? definitely intake and carb, what about the distributor? and would a classic style engine harness work if I went carb?
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,004
- 5,158
- 203
- 43
We don't do a bunch of carburetor swaps here. The classic section may be more of a help but I know how to do it. This advise I'm about to give is for a cruiser or daily driver...not a race car.
If you go carbureted the classic harness will work. Other than carb and intake you'll need a holley external fuel pump for carb ( 40 bucks )...I think its 7 or 8 psi, a fuel pressure regulator to cut pressure to 5 or 6psi ( I used Mr. Gasket from a local parts store ...that's also where I get the holley pump ). A 500cfm carburetor, vacuum advance distributor, the gm style HEI distributor for the 302 is a little better and easier to set up vacuum advance curves. There are little springs and weights inside that control advance...they are available all over the place cheap. Running a roller engine you'll have to make sure the distributor gear is correct for newer cams. They come bronze...and steel.
You will need a set of thermactor plugs to plug holes in the back of the heads ( one each side ) where the emissions stuff connected. On a few of my street cars I ran edelbrock carburetors and they worked well for years. My last one got 26mpg on the highway cruising at 72mph. It was a 600cfm ( had a mild camshaft..e303 ) I think part number was 1406. I also used a single wire o2 sensor and an air fuel ratio gauge. Just a cheap one with the red yellow and green LEDs. Helped me tune the car to run it's best. Also bought from Advance Auto Parts.
This distributor is from Speedwaymotors.com. It needs a different gear to run in a newer HO engine. It's only 60 bucks. It comes with a coil on top. No more coil wire running from the fender apron over the front of the engine.
If you go carbureted the classic harness will work. Other than carb and intake you'll need a holley external fuel pump for carb ( 40 bucks )...I think its 7 or 8 psi, a fuel pressure regulator to cut pressure to 5 or 6psi ( I used Mr. Gasket from a local parts store ...that's also where I get the holley pump ). A 500cfm carburetor, vacuum advance distributor, the gm style HEI distributor for the 302 is a little better and easier to set up vacuum advance curves. There are little springs and weights inside that control advance...they are available all over the place cheap. Running a roller engine you'll have to make sure the distributor gear is correct for newer cams. They come bronze...and steel.
You will need a set of thermactor plugs to plug holes in the back of the heads ( one each side ) where the emissions stuff connected. On a few of my street cars I ran edelbrock carburetors and they worked well for years. My last one got 26mpg on the highway cruising at 72mph. It was a 600cfm ( had a mild camshaft..e303 ) I think part number was 1406. I also used a single wire o2 sensor and an air fuel ratio gauge. Just a cheap one with the red yellow and green LEDs. Helped me tune the car to run it's best. Also bought from Advance Auto Parts.
This distributor is from Speedwaymotors.com. It needs a different gear to run in a newer HO engine. It's only 60 bucks. It comes with a coil on top. No more coil wire running from the fender apron over the front of the engine.
^^ good god I hate them things ^^^ but he is right, they are stupid easy, and forever reliable.
Now I'm not try'n to talk you out for the carb thing, but....
Ok, I won't, it's ok, (sniff) if you can live with this decision, (sniff) I guess I can too.
Now I'm not try'n to talk you out for the carb thing, but....
Ok, I won't, it's ok, (sniff) if you can live with this decision, (sniff) I guess I can too.
I don't think I answered this adequately before. If you can find a harness for an 89'-93' Mustang, it's going to be close enough. There are very few differences. The inlet air temperature sensor is in a different location (2 wires). The ignition coil is in a different location (2 wires). The ignition control module on an SN is on the inner fender, whereas it is mounted directly to the distributor on a Fox. It's $100 for a fox distributor, and it will be a lot easier for you to have the control module in that location anyway. You likely won't be using any of the emissions stuff, so just forget that. Megasquirt and PimpXS sell a full standalone ECM that plugs right into that harness. If anyone else can think of any other differences, post them up.
Kurt
I kind of figured it would work the same, but I wasn't sure. I've never installed an MS2 or Megasquirt.
Kurt
Similar threads
