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Fuel 19lbs EV6 fuel injectors, what fuel pressure???

  • Thread starter Thread starter PonyGTrider
  • Start date Start date Jul 11, 2024
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PonyGTrider

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#21
  • Jul 12, 2024
  • #21
AAAAAND NOOOO FUEL LEAKS, BY THE WAY...
 

Noobz347

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#22
  • Jul 12, 2024
  • #22
PonyGTrider said:
So maybe this set of EV6 injectors are pouring more fuel than the EV1?
Click to expand...

If that were true then one of two things should happen:

You throw a code for running rich.
The EEC leans out the fuel mixture.
 

PonyGTrider

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#23
  • Jul 12, 2024
  • #23
Noobz347 said:
If that were true then one of two things should happen:

You throw a code for running rich.
The EEC leans out the fuel mixture.
Click to expand...
Yeah I know what you’re saying… I’m running on a budget and have to try anything that is at my disposal.
 
Last edited: Jul 12, 2024

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#24
  • Jul 12, 2024
  • #24
What brand and/or where did you buy the injectors? Where did you get the MAF and what brand is it? It's also possible the ECU has an issue. Like has been said, if the car is running pig rich then you should get a code indicating this.
 

PonyGTrider

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#25
  • Jul 12, 2024
  • #25
AeroCoupe said:
What brand and/or where did you buy the injectors? Where did you get the MAF and what brand is it? It's also possible the ECU has an issue. Like has been said, if the car is running pig rich then you should get a code indicating this.
Click to expand...
The injectors are Ford 0 280 255 700 F4SE-A1B and were new takeoff
The MAF is Ford '95 mustang GT 70mm tube and sensor F2VF-12B579-AA
As far as the ECU, well I used an A9L and A9P with the same results. I doubt they both bad I bought the A9P freshly rebuilt
again the awfully strange thing is that if it was running pig rich the plugs should be all carbonned up but they're not... And there are no error codes.
 
Last edited: Jul 12, 2024

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#26
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #26
Where exactly did you get these EV6 19lb injectors and what did you pay form them? They sell sets of 8 on amazon for $50 bucks. I would not trust any of that knock off crap. A decent set of 8 injectors should cost you at least $200 and sometimes more.
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#27
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #27
I know you tried the stock meter housing and electronics and the current housing and electronics. Have you cleaned the MAF element?
 

Blown88GT

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#28
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #28
Autolite 24's might be a little too cold for your build. Try Autolite 25's.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#29
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #29
I have to ask, what's the gearing and tire size (unless this has already been given ) seems to me you checked speedometer with a GPS but is the odometer accurate?
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#30
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #30
First post, first paragraph General.
 
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PonyGTrider

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#31
  • Jul 13, 2024
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AeroCoupe said:
What brand and/or where did you buy the injectors? Where did you get the MAF and what brand is it? It's also possible the ECU has an issue. Like has been said, if the car is running pig rich then you should get a code indicating this.
Click to expand...
Don’t remember the website and I paid like $ 165.00 shipped.
 

PonyGTrider

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#32
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #32
Blown88GT said:
Autolite 24's might be a little too cold for your build. Try Autolite 25's.
Click to expand...
25’s ha, you think that could help? Perhaps better combustion? If you don’t mind what would be the next heat range of FR5’s?
 

Bullitt347

I have been doing it wrong this whole time
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#33
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #33
If the car is on level ground and in Neutral, can you easily push the car?
As in, one hand on the rear and just give it a push and it rolls?
Or do you have to put both hands on the car and really give a shove to get it to move?
If the car is all bound up, it will take a lot more energy to move compared to a car that has a lot less rolling resistance.
Oh, and post a pic of the car so we can see how aero clean it is.
 

PonyGTrider

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#34
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #34
Bullitt347 said:
If the car is on level ground and in Neutral, can you easily push the car?
As in, one hand on the rear and just give it a push and it rolls?
Or do you have to put both hands on the car and really give a shove to get it to move?
If the car is all bound up, it will take a lot more energy to move compared to a car that has a lot less rolling resistance.
Oh, and post a pic of the car so we can see how aero clean it is.
Click to expand...
Absolutely, the car is free no dragging brakes and it can be easily moved/rolled with one hand
 

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Bullitt347

I have been doing it wrong this whole time
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#35
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #35
How do you calculate fuel mileage?
Have you used the same fuel station and the same fuel nozzle in back to back tests?
 

PonyGTrider

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#36
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #36
AeroCoupe said:
I know you tried the stock meter housing and electronics and the current housing and electronics. Have you cleaned the MAF element?
Click to expand...
Oh absolutely, very often I spray it with MAF cleaner, and often clean the IAT too. Also test the ECT sensor so often and TPS is at 0.99 V
 

PonyGTrider

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#37
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #37
Bullitt347 said:
How do you calculate fuel mileage?
Have you used the same fuel station and the same fuel nozzle in back to back tests?
Click to expand...
Yes try to be as consistent as possible, same pump same station, same everything
 

Bullitt347

I have been doing it wrong this whole time
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#38
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #38
None of this adds up.
I have an 01' F250 Crew Cab 4X4 SuperDuty with the 6.8L V-10 with 33" mud and snows and I get 12-13 mpg highway driving.
Truck weighs 7,800 lbs empty.
I tow my 24' triple axle trailer at 10K lbs and I get 8-9 mpg.
The amount of fuel pouring through that 302 to only get 9 mpg CAN NOT happen at part throttle cruise without fouling the spark plugs.
 
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Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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#39
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #39
Yeah... I'm getting the point where I'm waiting for the punch-line.

Narrow band O2 sensors are dumb creatures.

They switch between:

off-scale high
off-scale low
unswitched

Too much time in either mode, throws a code.
No signal, throws a code.

So, either this car is running rich as eff and the EEC is disregarding the inputs (arbitrarily on its own) or gas is mysteriously returning to the mother ship.

I mean... I've seen poorly matched combos suffer mileage issues but this seems to be pretty extreme.

Do you have a trunk full of turbos or nitrous oxide bottles or something getting you to 1000 HP? LoL


When I first installed my Kenne Bell onto the (then) new stroker combo, it ran. 42 lb injectors and a MAF calibrated for 42s. It ran like actually. I drove it over the Allegheny mountains and got [horrible] fuel mileage but I mean, I could definitely tell it wasn't happy.

A tune brought the whole thing around. Fuel mileage --and-- drivability were drastically improved.

Your story though:
"I got no codes, it runs and drives great, I'm not leaking anything, it doesn't stumble, but if I rev it between gas stations, I'm going to need a tow."

I paraphrased.

Makes no sense


Out of curiosity, would you describe your fuel system from tank to injector?
 

PonyGTrider

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Jul 13, 2024
#40
  • Jul 13, 2024
  • #40
General karthief said:
I have to ask, what's the gearing and tire size (unless this has already been given ) seems to me you checked speedometer with a GPS but is the odometer accurate?
Click to expand...
Here is the whole recipe: I have 3.55 gears,T-5, 245-45-17 @33 psi all around, Detroit truetrac differential, 31 splines Moser axles, T5 WC Z specs with 0.63 overdrive, 7 tooth drive gear (Yellow), and 20 tooth Speedo gear (Black)
 
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