You’re correct, sometimes thing get unraveled from whom you least expected. I will keep trying to solve this issue with in an open minded way.
Thanks
You’re correct, sometimes thing get unraveled from whom you least expected. I will keep trying to solve this issue with in an open minded way.And old friend of mine is probably the best mechanic I know... I was at his house one day and a Chevy truck was in his shop.. A nice lifted truck with a brand new BBC engine in it... It was well done...
Jeff asked me to listen to the truck after he started it.... He was just getting ready to take the oil pan off and check some bearings... When he started it the engine just shreeeked like a banshee, fingernails on a blackboard sound....
I took one look at it a figured it out.... Popped off the oil filler rubber plug on one valvecover, the other side had a PCV valve in it and the shreek was gone..... In all fairness I had just read an article the day before on how to correctly run a PCV system on a car...... The engine needed a vent on the valve cover that had the rubber plug in it... The Shreek noise was the engine/PCV valve sucking in air through every crack in the engine.....
I want to say again, Jeff is the BEST mechanic I know so to say the least he was pretty upset with himself and double so that a much lesser mechanic ( me) figured it out.......
You need some new eyes on it........
Yeah I’ve been thinking about injectors upgrade to at least 24lbs, and no doubt tuning would narrow me to the best and optimum performance.Some might not agree, but I feel that you should really have bigger injectors in your car. The '93 Cobras came with 24lbs injectors and your combo should make significantly more power than one of those. It might be worth it to upgrade to a 30lb injector with matching MAF.
One other thing to try it having the car tuned. I had mine tuned by Decipha at efidynotuning.com using a Quarterhorse. We spent a lot of time logging fueling to ensure that A/F was correct and it's been one of the best purchases I have made for my Fox. My combo is very similar to yours and I average 17-18 mpg in mixed driving and even better on the highway. Unfortunately Moates closed up shop but you might still be able to get your hands on one. Heck it's worth it just for the diagnostics ability to see the output of every sensor in real time on your laptop.
The only way the canister gets soaked is if either the vent solenoid valve or purge solenoid valve are not working right. And they would throw a code if that is the case. Although I suppose any of the lines/hoses going to/from the canister could be a concern as well.
I removed and tested the purge solenoid valve and it is working fine. I checked it’s wiring an I had 12 V when ignition on, the ground wire is switched by the computer. But since the activation of the purge valve happens while cruising I will run a test light from the purge valve to inside of the cab this will determine if the valve is getting energized by the computer.The only way the canister gets soaked is if either the vent solenoid valve or purge solenoid valve are not working right. And they would throw a code if that is the case. Although I suppose any of the lines/hoses going to/from the canister could be a concern as well.
No that know off.Are you over filling the tank?
the filler neck is higher than the tank vent, if you over fill it it's gonna get sucked into the canister, blow air through the vent tube line from back to front, there's a check valve so only one way
Ok I understand the concept, so that means my check valve is trashed? My understanding is that the valve is a one way (out) valve but I can blow inside the tank and the fumes go out too so I don’t think there’s a check valve and if it is there then it is broken. Is my assumption right?Check valve is on top of the tank, one way valve, lets vapor out through the charcoal canister when filling the tank and relieves pressure at high temps, and when the solenoid is activated pulls the vapors from the canister, all this stuff is at or below the level of the tank....'cept the filler neck, you don't want to fill all the way up the neck, pressure pushes vapor AND liquid into the vent line eventually soaking the canister.
This is all theory of coarse, I never got any farther than 'shade tree' mechanics.
I think we're talking two different things here. First of all I did a little research and found that the tank breathing valve allows first the relieve (Exhale) vapors caused by motion and heat but also it is a breathing valve (Inhale) air as the fuel tank gets empty to avoid implotion. so I don't know if it is a one way valve.I believe there is one other way. The return line is totally [saturated]. You could very well be returning more fuel to the tank than the OEM return lines are happy with.
Thoughts?
One way or another I might end up doing thatThat would be a good assumption. Time to drop the tank.
No.if you're over filling the tank.Ok I understand the concept, so that means my check valve is trashed? My understanding is that the valve is a one way (out) valve but I can blow inside the tank and the fumes go out too so I don’t think there’s a check valve and if it is there then it is broken. Is my assumption right?
I have 190 lph pump with 19lbs injectors. I checked the integrity of all the lines. No clogs, no leaks and all of them are doing their job.I had a 255lph Walbro with 42 lb/hr injectors on stock fuel lines and had no issues with a soaked charcoal can. I would be curious to know if all the lines back to the tank (suppy, return, and vent) are all in good shape and not plugged. Would also be curious if the vent valve on the tank is working properly. The other thing is if the pump could not return enough fuel to the tank I would think the pressure gauge would go up.
No.if you're over filling the tank.
blow air into the tank, air comes out vent tube, all is good
blow air into vent tube, air enters tank, may not be so good.
Don't use compressed air, it will over power the hoses and the valve,
Now there's members here that are real mechanics that may have better advice.
I was just reading an article related to this concept and now I'm not sure what is a fact.No.if you're over filling the tank.
blow air into the tank, air comes out vent tube, all is good
blow air into vent tube, air enters tank, may not be so good.
Don't use compressed air, it will over power the hoses and the valve,
Now there's members here that are real mechanics that may have better advice.
Yep thats it, I know if I blow the vent hose and goes into the tank, all I need to know is if air comes out oe the vent line blowing thru the filling tube, ThanksDamn, I hate too much info, causes over thinking, confusion.
Just stick a hose in the filler neck, seal it off with a rag, blow air into tank, if you can feel air coming out the vent tube at the canister you're good.
Post the results.
Negative, that’s the whole purpose of the EPA (I think that’s what is called) regulation of a sealed gas cap so no raw gas pollutes the air. That is tested at the anti-smog verification stations.My understanding is the gas cap allows air into the tank and the vent on the top of the tank is in fact a one way valve.
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