Progress Thread 2.3L - crank no start issue. Has spark, fuel, good compression.

Yessir! Lol among other greats that the youth nowadays probably have no clue they missed out on

Got the diagrams printed. Lol you weren't kidding, even on 11x17 I'm still breaking out my magnifying glass. Going to start checking everything. Don't see this going quickly so it'll probably be at least a few days before I finish. I will let you guys know what I find!

Not sure what I'm supposed to do here. Anyone care to explain? What does the circle around the wires connecting to ground do? Am I just supposed to wrap bare ground wire around them? And how much/what gauge? Otherwise I've found a couple errors on the ignition connector and an error on the manufacturer diagram (lol) but nothing that's "eureka" worthy

Noobz347 said:

The dotted circle indicates a grounded shield or shields around each or the combined bundle of the encircled wires.



Often, these wires are grounded through the metal backshells of a particular connector. This portion may not apply in an automotive application though.

I can't see in the image where the diagram goes. It usually goes to ground. Sometimes through a diode and then to ground.

Click to expand...

It connects to the same ground point as ecc pin 20, don't see any diode on the diagram

So am I correct that the ICM connector #1 in the diagrams is the top connector and # 2 is the bottom?

Lol wasting time trying to get a clear picture when all I needed was a screenshot

Ok... I'm over this rf harness. I can't get it to work. Any recommendations on a better company to get a harness through? Or am I better off creating it all from scratch and individual pieces? Thank you for all your knowledge and patience, y'all are scholars and saints as far as I'm concerned lol

The deed is done. Electrical terrorists will not be negotiated with lol. Ripped out the rf fuse box and the engine wiring this morning. I couldn't find any premade harnesses from anyone but rf in my search last night so I'm going to make it again from scratch since I have the diagrams from Ford this time and not just partials from Chilton, Google searches, and rf. Going to start tonight after I get off. Would you guys recommend going with the stock fuse box or is there a better option out there? Also anyone happen to know where I can get replacement terminals for the ignition switch connector? Thanks again for the umpteenth time lol

I was looking for just the wire terminals but 4.99 for the whole thing it's probably cheaper just to get that.

I just checked lmr, I wish I had that much to spend on the harness lol and it's even more expensive from american autowire . Not to mention it's not designed to work with the OEM ECC/body modules which means even more $$$

Guess I'm making it from scratch lol

Anyone know the part number for the circuit breaker and the amperage for the diode in the pictures? I tried looking up both the numbers for the diode and got nothing and there is nothing to lookup on the circuit breaker. Diode is for #41 on the instrument panel (warning LP prove out)

Alright, I got the new wiring harness made and the engine now cranks and starts but dies right after the key is released. Depressing the accelerator/manually moving throttle slightly/wot doesn't keep the engine running after key release.

Fuel pump has been replaced
New wire set for spark plug
New plugs
IAC had 10.5 ohms between the blades and OL between each blade and IAC body
12v out of both IAC wires with koeo and connected to IAC
Cleaned IAC
Set IAC screw to factory setting
12v at both coil packs with koeo
Spark at all plugs
Inj. pulses at all inj.
Timing is correct
Vacuum lines are visibly in tact, were all replaced recently, and routed correctly
Only codes are for emissions systems
Fuel filter is not clogged/new fuel lines
Fuel pressure regulator is new
New gas
Air filter is not clogged


Haven't been able to do a fuel pressure test (fuel does spray out of schrader valve when depressed) or smoke test for leaks (nobody rents either of them around me). I've tried building a smoke machine before but it didn't work well enough to be useful.

Any ideas what else could be preventing the engine from staying on? Thanks in advance!

Haven't done a compression test recently but last time was about a month ago and the readings were 138, 140, 140, 142.

Alright, thanks for the help! I'll see if I can track down where I'm losing the power