2002 V6 3.8L Help Me

The pats module isn’t initialized with the pcm. Because the handshake isn’t present I’m assuming that’s where communication is lost. Apparently my no directional scanner does not have a relearning possibility. Forscan would be needed here to relearn the, pats to the pcm. This is correct I order some new legs from stratec as well as an OND link/adapter for for scan I’ve never downloaded it on computer before so I’ll see how it goes


That's the way I've done it through ForScan. It's pretty straightforward in terms of downloading, and getting the free extended license. The initialization option will be in a drop-down menu once you start the PATS key program process.
 
That's the way I've done it through ForScan. It's pretty straightforward in terms of downloading, and getting the free extended license. The initialization option will be in a drop-down menu once you start the PATS key program process.
I’m very unfamiliar with it, it would be my first time using it so I’m hoping I can handle that much from what you’re telling me.

Find Pats~
Get SecuriLock access~
Wait 10 minutes~
Look For PMI~

Does it automatically get the Pats to PCM or do I have to tell it to do that through more complex means?
 
At 6:30, there is a menu. One selection is “module initialization” and that’s what you’d do to pair the cluster with the ECU.


View: https://youtu.be/IExCLyy80FE?si=JjZhndgRKt6IZyGe



ForScan in general is easy to use. The pats programming is under service functions, but you can also scan the module DTCs first under the DTCs tab.

There are a lot of YouTube videos on general setup, getting the extended license (there’s a free one) and how to navigate. These mustangs are rather primitive so you can’t change vehicle programming like in later fords.

You do need to purchase some sort of obd2 adapter from laptop to car.
 
I’m in gentlemen
 

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At 6:30, there is a menu. One selection is “module initialization” and that’s what you’d do to pair the cluster with the ECU.


View: https://youtu.be/IExCLyy80FE?si=JjZhndgRKt6IZyGe



ForScan in general is easy to use. The pats programming is under service functions, but you can also scan the module DTCs first under the DTCs tab.

There are a lot of YouTube videos on general setup, getting the extended license (there’s a free one) and how to navigate. These mustangs are rather primitive so you can’t change vehicle programming like in later fords.

You do need to purchase some sort of obd2 adapter from laptop to car.

Thank you brother after quite the journey, my car is running again and I have everything working good key related, at least I can chalk this up as a win, knowing I learned so much more about ford programming because of both of your guys help. I’m sure I will need more help in the future on my voltage spike from my tps and fuel pump. But hey at least I can get to work and back in this bad boy. Until I buy another mustang for my third son, I’m sure I’ll be back for your guidance! God bless whoever made this website.
 
Glad you got it.

This is kinda why i don't use my scan tool for this procedure. I'm sure it can but done but the ForScan process has been so much more smoother in terms of avoiding hiccups.
 
I love my 99 Mustang six, 248,000 miles. I did have to have an additional ground ran at one point, heard fords are bad for needing this. The instrument panel was redone when the engine was rebuilt at about 200,000, due to trying to limp home with bandaged radiator hose. I have been told not to totally trust the temp gauge on my year, that if the cooling system looses enough fluid, temp gauge is not accurate. I think my engine would have easily gone 300,000 miles if I had it towed instead of trying to limp home. Engine still looked good, but was getting oil in the coolant reserve bottle if driven around town, not on long trips. The auto trans I made the mistake of flushing at almost 200,000, started slipping badly on hwy, had to pull over, shut engine off, start again and return back home. Was told to drain enough trans fluid to add one bottle of Lucas trans fix appropriate for my year and model, and still strong at 248,000 miles, though I expect to rebuild it soon. On the key, same here, I had one - and they do eventually wear out - I had a mobile key guy come and make two new securelock keys for my car - Blocks locks in San Diego. I have always heard keep ONE good key in a faraday box or pouch, so if your good key fails, you can more easily get 2nd key made than if you don't have a good working key available.
 
I love my 99 Mustang six, 248,000 miles. I did have to have an additional ground ran at one point, heard fords are bad for needing this. The instrument panel was redone when the engine was rebuilt at about 200,000, due to trying to limp home with bandaged radiator hose. I have been told not to totally trust the temp gauge on my year, that if the cooling system looses enough fluid, temp gauge is not accurate. I think my engine would have easily gone 300,000 miles if I had it towed instead of trying to limp home. Engine still looked good, but was getting oil in the coolant reserve bottle if driven around town, not on long trips. The auto trans I made the mistake of flushing at almost 200,000, started slipping badly on hwy, had to pull over, shut engine off, start again and return back home. Was told to drain enough trans fluid to add one bottle of Lucas trans fix appropriate for my year and model, and still strong at 248,000 miles, though I expect to rebuild it soon. On the key, same here, I had one - and they do eventually wear out - I had a mobile key guy come and make two new securelock keys for my car - Blocks locks in San Diego. I have always heard keep ONE good key in a faraday box or pouch, so if your good key fails, you can more easily get 2nd key made than if you don't have a good working key available.
Using forscan made it easier than pouring a bowl of cereal. I have 4 spare keys now all programmed for only $35. All work perfectly, and two fobs as well. For any transmissions this old I’ve only used OEM fluid from ford with a transmission judder fix those small bottles worth $75-$80 seems to be doing mine some justice. Going to do a torque converter swap with a summit one once mine goes out and see how the baby runs given the bell is still in solid condition, I took it out last year and did a full clean and inspection of everything and it’s solid. As long as you bleed the coolant properly as mustangs have difficult system to full purge. As long as all the air is out of the system you’ll be good to go.
 
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