Did he seat the coil spring pigtail correctly in the lower control arm on the passenger side? It has to be clocked correctly and sit in the 'pocket'.
he is suppose to recheck everything tomorrow. i will update thank you!Did he seat the coil spring pigtail correctly in the lower control arm on the passenger side? It has to be clocked correctly and sit in the 'pocket'.
ok dad is suppose to re check everything tomorrow. he didnt put in the camber plates? does that have anything to do with it or no? someone at his job also said something about loosing the bottom of the A arms while its on the ground before he tightens them? that helps ? he doesnt know much about them. thank youMeasure from ground to center of each wheel well arch (right at middle/center cap of wheel if that makes sense.
But double check front springs are clocked as mentioned and BOTH rear spring pig tails point towards the driver rear tire. perfectly straight with axle per say.
Past that these cars do not sit perfect from factory and bias a bit naturally. You have to get adjustable suspension pieces to dial in perfectly. If within 1/8-1/4 its about as close as it'll get. PLUS new springs will sit high for a week or two as the suspension settles with drive time.
Usually best to have a jack under rear and "weight" on them so you don't bind the rubber bushings. For the front it's not needed unless you undo the bushings side of the control arms etc. If you have Poly or spherical not as big of a deal for either to weight when torquing.I believe you do the final torque for the LCAs when they are loaded on the ground but someone smarter than me can confirm.
CC plates are usually best to get proper alignments. IF you don't want to do that you can do a camber bolt (not a fan of them) OR really old school is slot the upper hole on the spindle mount to allow more movement out on the wheel to get back into spec. CC plates are best.ok dad is suppose to re check everything tomorrow. he didnt put in the camber plates? does that have anything to do with it or no? someone at his job also said something about loosing the bottom of the A arms while its on the ground before he tightens them? that helps ? he doesnt know much about them. thank you
it was moved from the driveway and back in the garage. So the isolators can be taken off with no issues? he is going to break everything back down this afternoon and see what is different the springs are sitting over both holes. when looking at it from the back/front it looks like it sits up alittle compared to the driver side. this is what I want it to look like below. I found someone's car I want mine to sit like this. @squeak93Hard to say - but springs could but OVER clocked and sitting on the raised portion of the control arm. There is a hole in the bottom (some have 2 holes iirc) for drainage. Thats usually my stopping point for end of spring. Also - I do NOT run isolators so I can get car lower - creaks a bit more but no issues otherwise. Opinions vary on that though.
Have you driven the car since lowering or has it been stationary the whole time? Your pass front looks off the rest look about in line with what I'd expect. For reference, Sportline's in front (03 mach1) and no isolators my car sites right at 26 ground to fender well arch. level both sides and rear is all adjustable so it's not a good gauge.
sorry for all the dumb questions. where do i get the coil overs? cause whatever i have isnt working out with what i want lol can you point me in the right direction. thank youI am going to be that car you posted is on coil overs or chopped springs. 26 on a lowering spring is about as far as you're going to get. You'll need coil overs to go lower.
You can get coilovers from many places. A lot here like Maximum Motorsports.
However i don't think you need to jump to that yet. Something isn't right with the springs you have now. They shouldn't be off 3/4" and 1" side to side. Did you purchase new top isolators with the springs? The original isolators aren't stuck up in the top pocket and you're doubled up on isolators on the passenger side are you? If its all dirty up in there your dad may have missed it?
ok thanksAny major retailer but you'll likely need matching shocks, struts etc. Not quite as simple as a spring swap. You'll want strut tower and shock tower bracing along with 4 bolt caster camber plates. Look at my mach 1 build thread and see how my car sits on sportlines with no isolators. Rear is adjustable but sits about where sportlines did prior (now has drag springs in rear).
I agree with GKOMO - you need to get them clocked correctly, install caster camber plates, and THEN go drive it for a week or two before worrying about how it sits. It will settle I promise.
He cleaned up in there when he put the new springs in. we used the old isolators, i was being cheap lol this is my first time doing anything to the car since i bought it. he is going to take it back apart today and see what's going on. i will update then. hopefully we can get it fixed right. thank youYou can get coilovers from many places. A lot here like Maximum Motorsports.
However i don't think you need to jump to that yet. Something isn't right with the springs you have now. They shouldn't be off 3/4" and 1" side to side. Did you purchase new top isolators with the springs? The original isolators aren't stuck up in the top pocket and you're doubled up on isolators on the passenger side are you? If its all dirty up in there your dad may have missed it?
Yeah, its crazy going to see if it settles i guess. ThanksCould drive it around for a while and see if the suspension settles? Maybe the passenger side springs just need to settle to what the drivers side is. It looks like your measurements got a little more close removing the isolators, but one would think they would remain the same ratio between the sides.
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