Would I need to port the upper and lower or just the lower where it bolts to the heads?
Would I need to port the upper and lower or just the lower where it bolts to the heads?Liberty is just a jobber parts house from the Philly area, hence the name.. You can order Pac valvetrain thru them if you wanted and the heads bare or complete plus you can swap springs without pulling the heads pretty easy.. I would ask the builder how he ordered them and what springs it used either way. The as cast port tends to be in the 250cfm range on most benches, its the exhaust that's weak, a box stock edelbrock intake is like 225 cfm tops, a better intake or even porting would help more then a t body or intake pipe. My heads where like 286/188 in my lift range and I'm no porter. I honestly expected to run over the crank in that car but haven't hurt it yet. Rev hang would be in the tune, fords old IAC ain't the best set up.
I would find a better intake to start but thats me, lower would help the most since its the restriction on all most all ford efi intakes.Would I need to port the upper and lower or just the lower where it bolts to the heads?
Yeah they are . I had RCI who is no longer doing them build me a set . I would try and find a set of big shortys. If you do find long tubes the problem is that you’ll have to have or be able to build a custom x pipe because finding one is tough .Shorties, I heard long tubes are a pain on the aod
I have cherry bomb vortex on it, most likely gonna get changed soon because they sometimes rub my driveshaft.Yeah they are . I had RCI who is no longer doing them build me a set . I would try and find a set of big shortys. If you do find long tubes the problem is that you’ll have to have or be able to build a custom x pipe because finding one is tough .
Here’s another question that no one ever asks usually … what mufflers are on it ?
I have seen as much as 40 rwhp from getting rid of restrictive mufflers
I'm probably just gonna stick to the one I have and just get it ported, as long as I can get 250cfm out of it.I would find a better intake to start but thats me, lower would help the most since its the restriction on all most all ford efi intakes.
This - pypes race pros , borla xr1 , dyno max ultra flow etcI really like my Black Widow Venom 250 mufflers. Straight through design with no packing.
Yeah so I am going to just leave the heads as is cause I do not want to take those off. I did call the guy who built the engine and he said he puts his own valve train on, not from liberty. I will get my intake ported so it flows at or above 250cfm to match the heads. From what I'm seeing flow wise, my 70mm TB is plenty. I will definitely change my converter at some point and I will most likely get 1 3/4 shortiesThis - pypes race pros , borla xr1 , dyno max ultra flow etc
I run the ultra flows on my mustang and the pypes on my 66 belair .
I’m not sure what style the ones you have on there now are but when you’re looking for every last hp I have seen popular mufflers give up a good bit .
Now that you have your answers it’s time to do some homework . Starting with that damn converter LOL
The engine builder said he did his own valve train not liberties so I'm going to assume it's good. I have ordered a valve body already where I can hold 1st, 2nd and 3rd. If I can get intake port work done for 350 or less it's probably worth it because I picked the intake up for 400.Let's take the header debate a step farther, with the cam, head and intake he has header choice is not going to add much, just stick with the 1 5/8" shorties you got, you may gain a few hp points with long tubes,like maybe 10hp, but the biggest gain, although still small, will be the low end torque points, and going to a bigger tube size likely will kill torque more without adding hp.
All this points to the importance of planning parts selection with how the car will be driven most of the time.
If this were my car with the listed parts/pieces there now and looking for a little more guts I would research the valve springs to see if they are matched to the cam, add a shift kit to the trans, some intake port work, and look at my timing, I also prefer long tube headers for the low end torque on the street but it's a personal preference thing too.
These are just my opinions and not based on any real mechanical experience.
It may be an unpopular opinion, but I wouldn’t bother with anything but a long tube, if I’m buying new. They just always pick up everywhere.Let's take the header debate a step farther, with the cam, head and intake he has header choice is not going to add much, just stick with the 1 5/8" shorties you got, you may gain a few hp points with long tubes,like maybe 10hp, but the biggest gain, although still small, will be the low end torque points, and going to a bigger tube size likely will kill torque more without adding hp.
All this points to the importance of planning parts selection with how the car will be driven most of the time.
If this were my car with the listed parts/pieces there now and looking for a little more guts I would research the valve springs to see if they are matched to the cam, add a shift kit to the trans, some intake port work, and look at my timing, I also prefer long tube headers for the low end torque on the street but it's a personal preference thing too.
These are just my opinions and not based on any real mechanical experience.
I think they are BBK or something of similar quality, nothing crazy.It may be an unpopular opinion, but I wouldn’t bother with anything but a long tube, if I’m buying new. They just always pick up everywhere.
Op: which shorty headers are on the car now? Like which brand?
If you cut thatI think they are BBK or something of similar quality, nothing crazy.
Just a thought, I'm looking at my torque curve and it looks relatively flat throughout, if I went with 1 3/4 my peak torque would be at 4400 rather than 3900, a little bit of a stretch but it almost looks like my area under the torque curve would be better if I did that so it doesn't fall off after 4k.
How about equal length headers? I kind of want to replace these headers because I'm pretty sure there is a pinhole, I changed gaskets and there is still a leak.If you cut thatty reduced ball and socket collector bbk uses and put something better on it would probably pick up, but probably not much with the intake it has now.
Not that ball and socket is bad, but the ones bbk uses taper down to around 2.2in.
Shorty's are are usually no more than 4 to 6 hp of an improvement over stock manifolds. Go with longtubes and better heads. The Chinesium heads are making about what I would expect with the rest of the combo. A set of AFR's and a custom cam or the Comp XFI 236 should get you closer to where you want to be.How about equal length headers? I kind of want to replace these headers because I'm pretty sure there is a pinhole, I changed gaskets and there is still a leak.
I'm fairly confident that this setup will make 340-350 to the wheels after getting a better intake. I don't want to go through troubles with long tubes with my aodShorty's are are usually no more than 4 to 6 hp of an improvement over stock manifolds. Go with longtubes and better heads. The Chinesium heads are making about what I would expect with the rest of the combo. A set of AFR's and a custom cam or the Comp XFI 236 should get you closer to where you want to be.
Equal length short tubes won’t net you anything over regular short headers.How about equal length headers? I kind of want to replace these headers because I'm pretty sure there is a pinhole, I changed gaskets and there is still a leak.
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