351 Cleveland swapped MII

Pulled the booster. It certainly looks like I can shift the hole thing over one inch.
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I’m pulling the steering column now to see if I can modify the bracket that holds the brake pedal and reinforces the fire wall for the brake booster. If I can modify that bracket and drill new holes to shift everything over an inch. Hope I’m not opening a can of worms here.
 
Bullitt347. My current engine setup is a completely fresh 351C built basically back to factory specs. Factory pistons, cam spec, and 2v heads. It made 245 HP on the engine dyno post build. My plan is to put a mild cam (mild meaning street drivable) but with a mean sound. Honestly the sound of the cam is more important to me than actual horsepower. The perfect cam for me would be a good thump with good street manners. I have a Weiand tunnel ram intake. It’s a 4v intake that I was planning to put port stuffers in to bring it down to 2v type runners. I was also hoping the long narrow runners would give me really good low end torque. Again not for any sort of racing, but just to help maintain good street manners.

The end goal for this car is something that looks and sounds like a beast but actually runs and drives like a mildly built street car. All looks, and easy street manners. I know this sounds crazy, but I love the look of a really hot car, but I am too old to deal with the uncomfortable driving habits that come with it. So honestly, I’d love to put a cam that sounds good, exhaust with a deep rumble, a tunnel ram to look cool, and a single quad Holley for ease of tuning. With all this, my goal would be to maintain a good street drivable car.

If you have any advice to achieve this goal, I’m listening. Because at this point, it’ll be all trial and error. If someone can prevent some error, I’d really appreciate it.
Sorry for the delay. Been busy and was not paying any attention to this thread. I will try and catch up over the weekend. Do not have time right now, but should be able to provide my opinion come Saturday/Sunday.
 
Got the brake pedal and bracket assembly out. Looks simple enough to move everything over an inch. This will obviously move my brake pedal over an inch as well. But if it feels or looks funny, I can always heat up the brake pedal arm and snake it back over to the original position.
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Marked where the cut and ultimate shift left will take place. The only potential interference issue I saw was with the windshield wiper assembly. The motor and arms are right in that area. But my calculations show I should be good. Plus I could always clearance the bracket if necessary.
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Hope it works out as well as I’m in visioning.

I hope it works well too! How'd you get it's location all figured out before your final weld? I imagine you tacked it together while everything was bolted under the dash? Or did you just try shifting everything over and will locate the booster mounting holes from that?
 
How'd you get it's location all figured out before your final weld?
With the engine sitting in the factory location on the factory mounts, I have just enough clearance from the brake booster to be able to remove the valve cover. I measured the center line of my car and the engine sits exactly 1” off center to the drivers side. I figure if I’m moving the engine 1” towards the drivers side, then I should only have to move the brake booster 1” outbound to maintain the same clearance. I also didn’t want to get greedy and move everything too far that it would look weird. So I decided to move every mounting hole exactly 1” outward. Then I moved the center line of the brake pedal outward exactly 1”. Only trick to that was clearancing for the brake switch and making sure the modified bracket didn’t interfere with the windshield wiper motor mechanical arm. Going one inch did not. Any further and it would have. I built a plate to reinforce the brake booster mounting area and then drilled all holes one inch further towards the drivers fender. I also moved the hole for the booster arm that attaches to the brake pedal exactly 1”. I then cut the brake pedal bracket and shifted it exactly one inch towards the left. This allowed the front of the bracket that bolts to the steering column to remain in the original position and the back of the bracket that bolts to the booster to be 1” further offset. Welded it up with angle iron so it is even stiffer than factory. Steering column bolts back together in factory location but the brake pedal and brake booster are shifted 1” out now. I thought the brake pedal would feel and look odd. But it doesn’t. I actually like the new location better. When I wear boots, I used to get hung up on the brake pedal while pushing the accelerator. Seems to not be an issue anymore.

I did mock everything up to make sure I like it. Forgot to get pics of that. But as soon as I notch the fender well, I’ll get everything cleaned up, painted, and put back together. I’ll get good pics of it then.

Honestly this was a pretty simple solution to the power brake booster clearance issue. I feel this is the way to go for this engine swap.
 
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I don't think I worded my post clearly enough, but I think you answered me here:
I did mock everything up to make sure I like it. Forgot to get pics of that. But as soon as I notch the fender well, I’ll get everything cleaned up, painted, and put back together. I’ll get good pics of it then.

What I meant was how did you ensure that the bracket would fit after you welded it? Did you have the firewall more or less mocked into place then bolt that piece of the bracket in place, then have the other half bolted to the steering column before you tacked it, removed it, then finish welded it? Or did you weld up the bracket then locate the mounting holes from that? What I'm guessing is that you located the booster where you wanted it, then mocked and tacked it before final welding outside the car?

And I think I'd agree with you about the brake pedal - there's not a lot of room between it and the accelerator pedal in stock form. I'd think that moving it over would make it a little more comfortable to operate.
 
What I meant was how did you ensure that the bracket would fit after you welded it?
Yes, I tacked it in place and mocked it up to ensure everything cleared. But I pretty much new it would. Everything just shifted one inch. Probably one of the easiest mods I’ve done. Was very straightforward.

With only going 1 inch over, I new the firewall holes just needed to be drilled one inch over from there original location. Everything lined right up. I did mock it up to confirm, but it went really smoothly.
 
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