Progress Thread 43 years later

Not too difficult.
He had two specialty tools and an arbor press.
Soooooo. not happening in the drive way today.

But I found one fitting that needed snugging so maybe leak will slow down to a seep.




I've given up on the billet pulleys. Can't find anything even close.

Spray Paint!! For the Win!!
 
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I've been wire brushing like a madman all day. Still much better than the motor mounts.
Time for a beer.
 

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Look into electrolysis. Cuts the brush time dramatically. I only brush large flakes of rust on items that fit in my tote. I've gotten so lazy I don't even degrease parts first. I will wipe down heavy oil or grease otherwise the vat takes it off. My pulleys came out looking like new bare steel.
I just pressure wash items. Soak for 24 hours or so in the vat. Heavy rust takes longer. Degrease then pressure wash. Let dry thoroughly and treat with a coat of coroseal. Gets rust in the nooks and crannies. Not perfect for everything but ease of use is phenomenal.
 
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Machine work is completed on the engine. They are starting assembly late this week.
Body is being stripped. For some reason I got bumped by a Camaro....
 
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So 2Blue2 got me thinking about a hydraulic clutch. I think a Tilton 6000 series would be really simple to install on the slave portion. It's the master cylinder that's a problem. I asked the guys at Classic Auto Reproductions and they do not know of anyone who's done it. If I could figure it out I'd go with it. With the difference in height of the Spec Clutch from Original, I don't like the angle of the clutch fork and the TOB. It worked but the clutch cable is out so far there is barely enough adjustment and if I can't figure out how to get a master cylinder installed then I'll keep it.
 
I've been looking at that. I still don't know if there is room under the brake booster...because I can't...
And the adapter plate would be where? The clutch lever pivots similar to what is shown only the clutch cable attaches above the pivot point instead of below as shown. On yours is there room under the booster?
 
And the adapter plate would be where?

Right where the clutch tube bolts on to hold master and to distance it out a bit.
That pedal bracket lever would go upside down to get pedal arm in right spot.
Would have to weld ears to it and drill a hole in clutch pedal rod? Modify push rod ect...

Sorry just spit ball engineering.

The above picture's approach would work but all would have to be modified to fit our Mutt2s
Just got to throw that master cylinder in there and and pack all around it with hundred dollar bills, THEN IT WILL WORK!

52f8a1134f92238288f965eff2a34524.jpg
 
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I have just a rod with a ball joint bolted to the clutch pedal (no levers). My master and slave have the same diameter, so I have a similar distance from pivot to cable attachment. You can have a look to my build thread there are some pictures with the master clutch cylinder beside the brake cylinder (without booster)...
 
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Can kind of see it in Extra_Stout's picture
Look at all that new / clean / painted stuff...

power_steering.jpg


This pic shows it better oip-fzmadeccqdaryztqwd-9gwaaaa-jpeg.jpg well almost, at least I "feel" better :D .
 
I looked. I'm thinking that for me with the stock bell a slave inside the bell mounted on the transmission shaft would be a better fix. Yours looks real nice. I like the solid line from master to slave. How does that react to the engine torque?

This is what MDL sent me:
1594153260647.png
 
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I'm getting thirsty.
Isn't there a steel plate under the dash to hold the steering shaft up? I wonder if a guy could fab a plate to hold the master there and then run the lines through a grommet where the cable was?
 
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