Who all here have attempted to build/install a 4 or 6 point cage in there classic pony? I am tempted to buy a used pneumatic bender and give it a shot. I am not really interested in a pre fabbed cage. Instead, I am wanting something that is more discrete and provides a better fit. Thanks
Awesome idea, I have been thinking about doing that for quite a while but haven't had time. I'd like to bend the cage to the curves of the car and behind the windows . Then make some vinyl covered fiberglass panels to cover it up. Doing it this way might sacrifice a little in strength but would gain a ton in appeal, especially if the pipes couldnt be seen. Discreteness in a roll cage makes the car sexy!
My first cage I had was a 6 point pre-fab from Chassis Engineering (I think that's where I got it). All bars were straight and I had the guys that put in my floor pans throw it in there at the same time, and that is what they did. Structurally is was perfectly fine and at that time that is what I was interested in because the car was not perfect but I was not crazy about how it looked.
Fast forward to now and the car is totally re-done, re-painted etc. I am going to a guy that is going to custom bend me a 10 point 1 5/8" moly cage that better follows the contours of the car (as well as being legal). I went through it with him last week and there should be no question as to how I want it, he is reputable and I've seen his work so I feel confident. I was going to go 6 point but according to NHRA rules if you go 6 point it has to be 1 3/4" tube, small delta on size but I want it to be tucked up tight everywhere and I figured the littel more weight is worth the chassis stiffness and now if I build my big inch Dart motor and end up going faster I am good.
So long post but if you got the skills and the bender I say go for it!
Around how much is it going to cost you for moly vs carbon steel? Also maybe you can help on this as well. If a car isn't disassembled, how is it possible for these cages to be installed with full welds at the joining pieces(back side of the pipe)? Thanks for the response.
IMO, the seats & carpet should be removed for the bar install. If it is being TIG welded then the headliner can stay and be covered w/alum foil where welding will be close to it. If it is MIG welded I'd use a different technique to weld it in place so as not to remove the liner, but I'd remove anything I don't want possible splatter on.
You guys must have mad metal bending skillz; custom cages aren't that easy to fab and require a lot of work. I'd like to see pics of it when it's complete.
The fabricator ask that I remove my carpet, take a few bolts out of the seats and leave the headliner in as he will sheild it, he said he cannot guarantee the headliner will live but he is really good, and besides the headliner hoops would be hard to get back in post cage.
As it relates to the welds and how he does it, got me, I have seen some people do it many different ways, most the work up top can be done prior to the lower part of the cage. Bottom line is that this guy does tig work on pro stock chassis cars for Jerry Bickle and does rear housings for Mittler brothers and has a long lang list of very well known customers and he came highly recommended. Is it going to be cheap? Nope, I've been down that route and for what I have in this car I want it to be perfect. Not saying that someone with far more skills than me can't do it at home. I just know my wrench truning limitations.
My car is tore completely down. I agree, I want a perfect fit as well. Though it seems, there are many folks out there with a different definition of perfect. I'm a little tired of giving money to folks only to regret not doing the job myself. Thanks guys. I think I will call around the Houston area and see what I can come up with.