700-900 lb spring rate for Street mustangs with 1 inch drop or more??? HELP PICS!

[MustangOwner]

Well i'm was looking through old threads and i found a sweet link about lowering springs. Right now i'm going through hell between which springs i should order on my mustang. I've post a bazillion threads about it so i thought why not one more. This guy seems like to think that you need atleast a 700-900 lb front spring rating on any street mustang that has a drop of 1 inch or more. Now if thats true then why the **** does eibach sell you a pro kit that drops your car 1.2 inches up front with a max output of 571 lb spring rate! Thats what my car has on it now. I'm experiencing rubbing. I think if i bought some of the H&R Race springs that drop my mustang 1.25 inches up front and 1 inch in the rear it would fix my rubbing! They have a 750-850 spring rate up front which is a TON stiffer then my 571 lb spring rate of the eibachs. Then with polyurethane bushings it should raise my car 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I think that setup would be perfect for my 18's. Right now i love the stance but the ride is ****. I would just like your guys in put!!

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View attachment 382392

 

[ryankenn]

I would love to have your problem. I bought a 88 Notchback that has a coilover kit on it, and the ride is about 1/4" higher than yours in the front, and it rides like a frickin' brick. I don't know if its printed on the springs, but when I take them off it should be interesting to see if I can see what the spring rate is for this. Then I have to search around and see if I can even find some springs that will fit the Koni's and have a lower rate.

The guy I bought this off of had verbally said the spring rate was over 800, so get ready for a rough ride if you go this route.

Love your stance as it is right now. You should just roll the inner lip and machine 2-3mm off the inside to make it fit.

 

[stang&2Birds]

Well i'm was looking through old threads and i found a sweet link about lowering springs. Right now i'm going through hell between which springs i should order on my mustang. I've post a bazillion threads about it so i thought why not one more. This guy seems like to think that you need atleast a 700-900 lb front spring rating on any street mustang that has a drop of 1 inch or more. Now if thats true then why the **** does eibach sell you a pro kit that drops your car 1.2 inches up front with a max output of 571 lb spring rate! Thats what my car has on it now. I'm experiencing rubbing. I think if i bought some of the H&R Race springs that drop my mustang 1.25 inches up front and 1 inch in the rear it would fix my rubbing! They have a 750-850 spring rate up front which is a TON stiffer then my 571 lb spring rate of the eibachs. Then with polyurethane bushings it should raise my car 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I think that setup would be perfect for my 18's. Right now i love the stance but the ride is ****. I would just like your guys in put!!

View attachment 382375
View attachment 382376

Yes, went over this, in depth, on the corral!
What do you think, that the law of physics are different on different web sites?

And, gee, not one person presented any calculation, facts, or figures to dispute my claims. Why do you think that is? Think that may have something to do with my engineering degrees and that *I* get my facts and calculations from well respected Ford/Mustang books?

Yes, I'm the "guy". Also, why don't you post my FACTS to backup my claim?

Like I've said many many times, companies sell BS **RICER** CR*P because people are foolish enough to believe it BUY that cr*p. Heck, people still buy C&L MAFs even though I've been saying for ~6 years what a PURE JOKE they are! Haven't you learned by now how companies work? If not, I have some swamp-land in Florida that's a great investment - I take only cash in small unmarked bills.

Also, I say you need that high of a rate of springs for that amount of a drop to PREVENT bottoming out on REAL-LIFE ROADS!!

Once again, see the calculations near the bottom of:
http://veryuseful.com/InvisionBoard/index.php?showtopic=8

Yes, a 750-850 spring rate with a drop of 1.25 inches along with poly isolators would be pretty good. But, that's a very stiff spring for the street! And, you *must* have an adjustable strut to be able match that dampening required for that spring rate.

Many people run the POS "B" springs and as long as they don't hit bad bumps, hit pot holes, etc, they are okay. But, all it takes is *one* big pothole/bump and Mr Tire would kiss Mr fender liner or Mr Lip. Then, the religious right have them all shot for their unnatural encounter.



How about this: Put 200lbs/in springs on your car with a 8" drop. It works GREAT!! Yea, I have them on my car and I LOVE THEM!! WTF needs an engineering degree, handling classes, and facts.
Keep searching, you WILL find someone to blow smoke up your *ss.

Listen and learn the facts, or go to ricers-r-us.com to find people that will happily blow smoke up your *ss. I have much better things to do than to argue with people that have never read any book on suspension, or know anything at all about the Stang suspension.

Have fun, as with the corral thread where you got people talking about stuff without any basis other than "I've done it/ seen it/ heard about it/ and the car did not burst into flames, therefore it's 'okay' " I'm done with this thread!

 

[MustangOwner]

lol damn man haha

 

[MustangOwner]

Your "the guy". Ha man i think you took that the wrong way. I wasn't knocking your claims at all. I was just asking other people as well if they think the same thing. Well you read the post so i dont need to say it again. What do you think the least amount lbs per spring could i get away with, without having rubbing issues with my 18's. And i have the adjustable KYB's. Would they be able to handle that kinda lbs per inch? What happens if i install those springs with the KYBs? Or would the 650 lbs Bullitt springs be able to handle my car? Personally i'd like to just install the 650 lb spring rate bullitts on my car but if the H&R Race springs with 700-850 lb spring rate is what i need, then thats what i'll get. Thanks. Sorry if you took that the wrong way, didn't mean it like that. Thanks again.

 

[ryankenn]

Spring rates

Yes, went over this, in depth, on the corral!
What do you think, that the law of physics are different on different web sites?

And, gee, not one person presented any calculation, facts, or figures to dispute my claims. Why do you think that is? Think that may have something to do with my engineering degrees and that *I* get my facts and calculations from well respected Ford/Mustang books?

Yes, I'm the "guy". Also, why don't you post my FACTS to backup my claim?

Like I've said many many times, companies sell BS **RICER** CR*P because people are foolish enough to believe it BUY that cr*p. Heck, people still buy C&L MAFs even though I've been saying for ~6 years what a PURE JOKE they are! Haven't you learned by now how companies work? If not, I have some swamp-land in Florida that's a great investment - I take only cash in small unmarked bills.

Also, I say you need that high of a rate of springs for that amount of a drop to PREVENT bottoming out on REAL-LIFE ROADS!!

Once again, see the calculations near the bottom of:
http://veryuseful.com/InvisionBoard/index.php?showtopic=8

Yes, a 750-850 spring rate with a drop of 1.25 inches along with poly isolators would be pretty good. But, that's a very stiff spring for the street! And, you *must* have an adjustable strut to be able match that dampening required for that spring rate.

Many people run the POS "B" springs and as long as they don't hit bad bumps, hit pot holes, etc, they are okay. But, all it takes is *one* big pothole/bump and Mr Tire would kiss Mr fender liner or Mr Lip. Then, the religious right have them all shot for their unnatural encounter.



How about this: Put 200lbs/in springs on your car with a 8" drop. It works GREAT!! Yea, I have them on my car and I LOVE THEM!! WTF needs an engineering degree, handling classes, and facts.
Keep searching, you WILL find someone to blow smoke up your *ss.

Listen and learn the facts, or go to ricers-r-us.com to find people that will happily blow smoke up your *ss. I have much better things to do than to argue with people that have never read any book on suspension, or know anything at all about the Stang suspension.

Have fun, as with the corral thread where you got people talking about stuff without any basis other than "I've done it/ seen it/ heard about it/ and the car did not burst into flames, therefore it's 'okay' " I'm done with this thread!

Can I ask how I can tell whether my setup is working well with each other, or how to tell what the existing spring rate is?

The car isn't that low, I have slightly more gap then the poster showed, but like I said, it rides very, very rough. To the point where a 1/2" metal sheet road crews put over work areas creates a "whack" upon me driving over it.

Do you see any light being able to change the spring rates on an existing coilover setup, or to they just come with a spring and that's what you get.

Hopefully this weekend I'll have some more info and picks as this is only my third day with the car, and it seems like you have you head screwed on right.

Thanks,
Ryan ( I tried to send a PM, but it was full )