Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

The baby SS Cragars are really neat and fun to see.
but I dislike uni-lug wheels

I have a similar problem. I got a set of 4 lacy wheels but the only 13 inch tires they sell around here are for boat trailer rims.
I want 15 inch rim any way too.


1974_1978_mustang_king_cobra_ii_lacey_lacy_wheels_orange_aluminum_100182526823318939.jpg
 
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Thank you 74stang2togo

I did look at them, none are stocked in Hawaii and there is a 131.38$ US shipping charge on top for each.
Thats double the price of actual tire on some.

I found some steel wheels from an modern french car

I kind of like these. Especially if you could do trim rings and dog dish hubcaps. would like to see them at 7 inches wide though.

Once you convert to 5 lug then the choices for 15 inch rims and tires ~ the world is your oyster.
 
Those black wheels with trim rings and a nice center cap would look good imo. The trick is finding the rings and a cap to work with them. Depending on the size of the center hole, you may be able to find something to protrude through there and use chrome lug nuts, that may not be too bad?

My personal opinion on the Cragars - I don't like them. They just look weird to me with 4 lugs and spokes....
 
On my 66 the new steel wheels came in a silver paint. I painted the middel section black and used chrome lug nuts. I like that style very much. But its a 15x7 with about 4' backspacing. That wheel fits with an 225/60 R15 awesome to that car.
.
IMG_20180602_101651.jpg

From what i read here in this forum this size of wheel fit also very well to the Mustang II, but they aren't available with 4 lugs...
I think i will go the "french wheels meet american car" route even if they are just 5.5 wide (that the only downside for me). There are so many tires available in 195/50R15 and perhaps i choose some winter tires that perform also very well in rain.
Then i have the option to run 205/60R13 Toyo r888r semi slicks on the cragars for summer :cool:
 
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I got a feedback from cragar wheels: "...to get a true balance, you'll need to find a shop that can balance them through the lug holes using the shank lug and washers. If not, your more then likely going to get vibration."
 
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I got a feedback from cragar wheels: "...to get a true balance, you'll need to find a shop that can balance them through the lug holes using the shank lug and washers. If not, your more then likely going to get vibration."

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocWAZqNGhM4


There's also an adapter with posts (which is what I was going to take a pic of at work, but forgot) that can do the same thing.

The Tacoma, GX470, 4Runner, and early Tundras are all lug-centric from the factory, so I learned by necessity.

I had Uni-lug Cragars on an S10 pickup years ago... the secret to avoiding vibration is to put all of the lug nuts on loosely, then finger tight, then torque them down in steps (skills which, in all irony, would again become necessary when I bought a 4Runner with aftermarket lug-centric wheels). Make sure you or your tire guy does it that way so that the wheels will be drawn to center as they are tightened, just hammering them down with an impact wrench doesn't get it done.
 
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Lazy sunday... time to post some pics from the work I have done in the last weeks:

Here is the finished unterbody 90% of the unterbody protection is the original one, that was refreshed with the fluid film product
underbody.jpg

Here is a picture from rebuilding the 3rd member (It has the 2.78 ratio from my 66 Mustang, which should work very well with the small tire diameter and the T5 tranny)
diff.jpg

Here is the rebuild rear end (i like the look of the cunifer brake lines very much)
rear_end.jpg

The explorer 5.0 front dress of the engine gives my enough room (about 0.5 to 0.75 inch) in the 74 mustang to use the radiator at the stock position (I will use an electric fan in front of the radiator)
Distance radiator.jpg

And here is the power steering pump and the alternator mooked up. The explorer engine front forces me to put the alternator more beside the engine than in front of the engine... but i guess it will work. I need to to further bracing on the pump and alternator and and the tensioner will be on the pump side.
accesorries.jpg

The silicon hoses are ordered, but i need to order stainless steel pipe to finish the connecting pipes inbetween. I also need to put a sensor bung into the lower hose/connecting pipe to have a thermo switch for the e-fan.

I removed the brake calipers to rebuild them, but at the moment I' not sure if I can remove the pistons... they are stuck. Time and WD40 will perhaps help.
If i can't reuse them I'm thinking about doing the 5 lug swap, then my wheel problem whould also be solved.
But at the moment I whould be happy to reuse the calipers because I have everything here...
 
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40 PSI with compressed air... *PLOP*
The calipers and pistons where in an ultrasonic bath. Pistons look like new, calipers have very little corrosion. At the weekend I will clean it all up further and paint it black.
The ultrasonic bath did also remove all the black chewy stuff (that was 30 years ago gasoline) from the fuel sending unit. The pipes from the sending unit where clogged...
@2Blue2: fingers crossed, that your calipers are also easy to rebuild
 
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Brakes are finally completed. Bleeding with vacuum worked nice on the brakes.
I also washed the carpet with a pressure washer and there were some flaws which I fixed. With floor mat mats inside, you won't see anything. Front seats are also installed and no modification is needed:
the stock front position of the seat is comfy for my with and she can still see the hood. And for me the rear position is also comfy and I'm not hitting the roof with me head. Mustang II is a nice looking and handy family car :)

With the pressure washer in the driveway i cleaned all the dust and swarf from the car. And my daughter and wife where looking for leaks inside. I need new window beltline weather stripes, some taillight gaskets and the quater panel window is leaking extremly...

Does somebody has a hint, how to get the quaterpanel windows removed?! Because all of the other weatherstriping is still soft and looking good, I'm thinking they were installed wrong at some time or they forgot to use sealant?!
Has anyone expericne with the quater panel windows of the hatchback?
 
Going from memory, you'll obviously have to remove the trim around the window. Then there are a couple of screws at the leading edge and one screw at the rear corner. I don't remember if you can take it out without removing the rear cargo panel. It's pretty straight forward once you get into the process.
 
It's been a while, but I removed the quaterpanel windows and noticed that there were missing half the screws... now i know why they where leaking.
I cleaned everything up and installed them with ALL (!) screws and some duroplastic sealant. Know it should be leakproof.
I also changed the door locking cylinders from right to left, because one locking cylinder has a diffrent key. Now the driver side door locj and the ignition lock have the same key. I dont think that I often lock the codrivers side often from the outside.
Next week I want to put new plastic foil on the door to have a water protection.
 
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Distributor is finally ready for installation. I reduzed the gap of the "18L slot" by welding and grinding to get a "10L slot". I want to set 14-16° static advance + 20 mechanical advance.
IMG_20190929_144402.jpg

My 289 exhaust manifolds are also ready for installation: painted and the hardware arrived from summit racing.
IMG_20190929_144356.jpg

I'm hoping to finish the cooling system over the weekend (custom made) and the serpentine belt drive is also near to be finished...
 
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