Build Thread '83 T-top Coupe - Welding Holes in My Rear

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I really like the way the pressure cooker just about pounds the sauerkraut flavor into the meat of the ribs.

This is a childhood favorite of mine from fifty years ago. Ironically enough, that old pressure cooker in the picture was my mom's. Still works:nice:
 
My wife got a pressure cooker for Christmas and we used it so much we damn near wore it out. It's really nice but I have to say I still prefer slow cooker for most things.

And that's my contribution today.
Funny, ours is less than a year old and I think it’s starting to act up.
 
I think @95steedamustang has the right idea-
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Ok, the sauerkraut helped to clarify things for me. Booger will have an SRA.
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I remember a patch in my grandma's kitchen ceiling. The family said it was from one of those old pressure cookers blowing up and sending the lid into my grandmothers closet....on the second floor.:eek:
 
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I remember a patch in my grandma's kitchen ceiling. The family said it was from one of those old pressure cookers blowing up and sending the lid into my grandmothers closet....on the second floor.:eek:
My family had a story like that! From what I hear it was a huge mess. I think it was a pressure cooker like the one Dave is cooking with. :runaway:
 
See Gix1k4's now as near as dagammit 10 year old 15 pager, but you'll have time to browse this while eatin that and talkin to the Mrs......


MM mmmmmmmm......MM low profile bolts, then you can get 555R drag radials and 275/45/17's on 9.5" wide 97 GT wheels.

joeswr400 said:
A 17x9 will fit with the IRS. You might have to get the button head bolt for the rear bracket from Max Motorsports.

I went a step further and had Weldcraft widen my 97GT wheels to a 9.5. Also had them machine off 3/16 from the rear mounting face of the wheel to tuck the tire in a tad. This brought the tire/wheel in TOO far and I ended up having to remove the rear subframe mounting bracket and bushing. I made the rear mount solid on the sub-frame and it still bolts to the car for removal.

A nitto 275 on a 9 inch wide wheel will look perfect. I might have been able to mount a 275 M/T drag radial if the rim wasn't so close to the rear frame bracket now.




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Alexandros
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On Stew Magoos last page.....





Jack Hidley said:
05-09 GT Premium wheels 17x8 6.27" back spacing 245-255 tire Yes.

R58 Cobra R wheels 17x9 5.98" backspace 275 tire No.

M179 Cobra R wheels 17x9 6.42" backspace 275 tire Yes.

5Zigen FN01R-C 17x10 6.88" back spacing 285 tire With the correct camber setting and possibly thin wheel spacer this should just fit.

Cobra R replicas 17x10.5 6.82" backspace 275-315 tire No.

AM 10th anniversary Cobras 17x10.5 6.85" 28mm offset 275-315 tire No.

AM Bullitts 18x10 7.2" backspace 285 tire With the correct camber setting and a thin wheel spacer this should just fit.


bird_dog0347 said:
18x9 +45 (6.72 BS) on the rear with a Nitto 275/35/18 with the MM low profile bolts and rolled fender and no rub but I cannot get anything more in there. You'll want either a 17 or 18 inch wheel and you'll want a 9" width and +45 offset to get it to fit. 350z's also use the same bolt pattern

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See Gix1k4's now as near as dagammit 10 year old 15 pager, but you'll have time to browse this while eatin that and talkin to the Mrs......


MM mmmmmmmm......MM low profile bolts, then you can get 555R drag radials and 275/45/17's on 9.5" wide 97 GT wheels.






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1498234355.webp


Alexandros
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On Stew Magoos last page.....










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Ugh I want IRS in my car so bad. With some flares and some 305-315 wide tires... Hnnngggg!
 
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I was thinking of straightening and welding the tubes on my 8.8 myself.

Has anyone here done this themselves before?

I would need a kit similar to this.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Currie/272/99...F82Dpal3YORNSUXAKeqPblTMPZ4didx4aAqyjEALw_wcB
Obviously if I decided to narrow the rear end this would be needed as well.
First thing in the morning, and again I get to ask "Why would you do that?"

Surely there has got to be somebody in the greater Tulsa area that you could take that to that doesn't charge $440.00 plus what shipping a 5' long, 50lb. bar will cost. I've narrowed every single rear in every single car I've ever had since 1990 ( 9 cars in total) and one way, or the other I was directly involved in the process.
All of the 8.8's, I at least cut the ends off, and sectioned out what I wanted, out so that all that was left to be done was weld it back together once it was in that jig.
(And I've always had a friend that had that jig) On some rears the tubes were so badly tweaked the axle end had to be shifted over a 1/4". (Yes, we welded the outside of one side of the axle tube, and the inside of the axle to the cut off end) The current rear in the Monster has one tube that is shifted 1/8" over. If you have the housing actually straightened, somebody who knows what they're doing applies heat to the axle tube to cause it to move in the desired direction. Not the most "User friendly" process for a beginner to attempt.
 
The other issue of fitting a 315 inside the existing wheel tub is defined by the question "What do you consider "fitting?"" A tire directly inline with the outside edge of the wheel lip on the quarter, doesn't fit as far as I'm concerned. If you cant drop the car because the tire will hit the quarter when you do, the tire isn't inside the wheel well.
Based on that criteria, the only way a 315 "fits" these cars is when major surgery is performed to the inner wheel tub. An irs, even when hard mounted will not tolerate a properly back spaced (7") 10.5" wheel because the upper shock mount has to be moved once the inner wheel tub is cut away.

If you want a big tire, bigger than 275 (and want it to fit right) that is the defining set of rules to govern your decision. Only an SRA will give you the ability to do that, and a 3 link'd version of that, or a torque arm/panhard bar version will corner well enough to be competitive on a road course, even a properly set up 4 link will let a good driver drive by more potentially capable cars. (ask @MFE92 )
 
@Hoytster

I think it's time for you to join the discussion with your solid mount IRS. Dave is in the searching for big tires just like you

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...d-weld-spatter-in-my-ears.900417/post-9098471
So a hard tail mount is the main limiting factor for a wide wheel and tire?

I really haven’t studied this thorough enough. Today I’ll start looking at it deeper.

Then there’s still the issue of finding one, though I think that just takes patience as well.


I'm a little late to this conversation and am probably going to re-iterate some of what's already been said.....

With everything I've seen so far, the max tire width I've ever seen anybody run on an IRS equipped Fox body (with no fender flares, rolled inner lip, hard tail mount, some sledge hammer work) is a 295/45/17". I forget what wheels he was running, but I believe some spacers were used to get the correct offset. @stanglex2002 is correct, you really can't mini-tub a car with an IRS since the IRS cradle is what gets in the way. You're only other option is to go the fender flare route.

If I were building what you are building, the biggest reason I would switch to an IRS would be ride comfort. The difference in unspring weight between an SRA and an IRS is huge, and contributes a lot to how the IRS feels. The IRS is also a little more predictable when pushing the car hard through corners, you don't get the solid axle "side-step" when hitting bumps or going over curves. I went IRS because I will be pushing my car on the track, and I like to use as much of the track as I can, which involves lots of curbing. I am also looking to increase my overall track width and will be running Maier Racing fender flares, so the IRS was a perfect fit for me. I also live in PA, and we don't know how to fix potholes around here.

On a smooth road or race track, the difference between an IRS and a TA/panhard rear SRA (or watts link) is negligible. All other things equal, the IRS will be just slightly quicker the SRA. Start making quick corner transitions, running over curbing, or start hitting bumps, and the IRS will start shining. Start doing hard launches at a drag strip on stickys, and the SRA will start shining.

Almost all of the shortcomings of the stock IRS can be overcome with the right parts. Get rid of the soft rubber mounting bushings, strengthen the case with a good cover/brace, replace all the control arm bushings with delrin, and you will have a solid setup with no wheel hop. But, from my experience with a TA/watts SRA, you will not have the same amount of forward traction with an IRS as you will have with that setup.

I saw you looked at the s550 IRS swap into a Fox. I probably could have saved you some research on that one. I looked heavily into that and the amount of fabrication work that would be required to make it was counterproductive. Not to mention the s550 IRS was significantly wider than the cobra IRS and just would not work. I know a guy toward the Philly area that is doing that swap on a 70's Mach. He is cutting the entire floor pan out and grafting an s550 floor pan in so he has all the mounting points for the IRS.

Here is the hard tail mount I did on my IRS cradle. If you happen to ever decide to go the IRS route, I have dimensions and progress pictures on how I did this and can send them to you. You wouldn't have to go as overkill as I did, but could easily modify my design to meet your needs and make the fabrication a little simpler.

I'm not trying to sway you either way, both setups have their merits. Just need to make the decision as to what fits your needs (and budget) better.

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