The sell just the ac clutch repair kit. It's not hard to do. It also keeps you from having to release all the freon. There is a special tool that is cheap to help get clutch off.
They're called snap-ring pliers. You need a set that is reversible.
Remove the pump from the bracket so that you can get to it without having to remove any portion of the cooling system.
No, pal. The FP relay connector under driver's seat is empty and relay is missing, but pump primes, car runs fine. When I saw that for the first time, I knew there is bypass somewhere.
I found a clue maybe, additional wire at ignition coil connector running to drivers side firewall into speedo cable grommet. Still must check where. Today I confirmed - not to eec.... :-/
Today I took out the brains (eec) and main wire harness. I plan to clean and desinfect blower, check eec electrolites, install new eec relay and re-wrap harness in next few days.
I belive from what I saw that I was first one touching eec since Ford employees.
Attached a few pictures.
Oh, I suppose this hardened fat on eec plastic cover and EEC relay was a dielectric grease 32 years ago? You guys saw that on other foxes?
@90sickfox & @Noobz347 as I am not sure if a/c or compressor is working eitherway, I dont plan to spend too much and ordered just a bearing to fix sound issue.
Furthermore AC on this car is in unknown state, there is no freon or gas inside (checked).
Additionally, all the pipes, hoses and accumulator are in bad, dirty, nasty and rusty condition. Plan is to rip them out, sandblast and paint/polish to look good. I have a resonable doubt that compressor may be south according to condition of installation. Ordered also a set of green AC o-rings.
I know that dryer should be changed when I open system but, if You ask me - not in this state, but in known and running ac system. First I will restore looks, then we will look for (mal)function.
The 1M $ question is shall I try to pressurize system for a test run before everything or after...
No, main harness is out. Additional wire still inside car. IMHO from the position it runs to inside of the car (speedo cable), it may be attached somewhere in fuse panel?!
I doublechecked wires in eec place, and found one suspect. The connector running to door switch (dome light) has black taped wire runnin' up towards vent. Can someone please check, this is stock?
Edit: attached picture of suspect wiring
Stupid or not, but system was empty so I disassembled and sandblasted all AC pipes. Currently painting them with 1 coat 800°C and 1 coat transparent 400°C as finish.
What I saw thru all of engine compartment from start (more in passanger side) was like a hardened resin (missing only a mosquitto from Jurassic park ha ha).
As I found a huge 'ball' of resin around connection of pipe from front condenser to firewall connection to inside evaporator I asked myself... Was this a AC blowup leak at some point? Would that light green AC stuff (or leak detection liquid) turn into resin?
I have no clue about AC's. Dryer had heavy rust, passanger side AC pipes covered with that resin stuff. Also, I doubt that dryer is good, but I closed it as soon as it was disconnected.
Feeling tells me that any effort to run this AC system will be useless... At this point and for now it's about looks only...
Will check compressor clutch when I change bearing (waiting for package from rockauto), and maybe vacuum test system (green o-rings on the way also).
Some pictures what I am killing my time on
Electrical works on hold, still stripping main harness when waiting for paint to dry
Well, then guess it's stock.
Main wiring harness sleeves rehauled, fusable links checked, all in order, wires will hold another 30 years due to the protection they have now.
Removing harness coming from drivers firewall, I can see it will be a weekend project, there is a mess down there (see picture) :-(
AC pipes sandblasted and given a nice new shiny spray coat. Pictures attached. New Armaflex insolation waiting
Anyway, I isolated the alien wire that was connected to (-) ignition coil, and the pump was not priming anymore as I assumed.
Plugged a brand new (was missing) FP relay, bang. Primes. Runs, no code 87 anymore in KOEO, only 11!!!!
Don't want to tear ignition switch on Christmas eve, but I will find how they did this FP relay bypass.....
Guys, have a nice Christmas!
I just cant look anymore to dirty compressor.
Took it off, sandblasted and polished slightly (Rubber), then I did the same to smog pump.
Thermactor tube looking like brand new (black painted tube and silver check valve).
Some pictures attached
Will try to open and lube smog pump. Actually it is pumping air by hand turning but making slight noise. Guess it needs cleaning as everything else on this car. @jrichker Your posts about thermactor system inspired me to try to run it again
AC compressor (6P148A)is giving me PIA. I unbolted front pulley screw but cant get that cover off. I used screwdriver to pry against pulley but no effort. It should just fall off but it just wont let go. 5001 bearing is about to be delivered and I cant open clutch :-(
After removing dryer tube I saw damage on compressor outlet connection (2-3 steps stripped, visible on pic's)...
Took it off, sandblasted and polished slightly (Rubber), then I did the same to smog pump.
Thermactor tube looking like brand new (black painted tube and silver check valve).
Some pictures attached
Will try to open and lube smog pump. Actually it is pumping air by hand turning but making slight noise. Guess it needs cleaning as everything else on this car. @jrichker Your posts about thermactor system inspired me to try to run it again
AC compressor (6P148A)is giving me PIA. I unbolted front pulley screw but cant get that cover off. I used screwdriver to pry against pulley but no effort. It should just fall off but it just wont let go. 5001 bearing is about to be delivered and I cant open clutch :-(
After removing dryer tube I saw damage on compressor outlet connection (2-3 steps stripped, visible on pic's)...
@snovak
The A/C clutch is about $100 new or you can buy a compressor from the junkyard with a working clutch for about $50. The puller is about $16 if you have to buy one, Autozone will rent you one for free.
The clutch hub is usually what fails, the rubber shock damper shears off from the steel hub and plate. The pulley turns, but the hub doesn't when you power up the A/C.
www.rockauto.com Ford MOTORCRAFT Part # YB289A $39.00
The hub comes off without much problem if you have the puller. You don’t have to do anything with the refrigerant (R12 or R134a), you can replace the clutch without draining and refilling the system. The snap ring hiding inside the hub is the only tricky part.
Remove the nut; remove the snap ring (if present) and then remove the washer. Loosen the puller tool center bolt so that you can get the larger threaded section of the puller screwed into the clutch hub. Tighten up the center bolt on the puller and the clutch hub will come off.
Clutch hub puller tool
Part Number: 27002
Alternate Part Number: 59509
AutoZone and most other major auto parts chain stores will rent or loan the puller. Cost is $21.00 if they don’t have one to loan.
A few simple electrical tests are advised before popping out the wallet to buy a clutch assembly. With the engine running, use a test light connected to the 2 wires on the A/C clutch harness to make sure you have voltage when you turn the A/C on. If the system is low on refrigerant, the clutch will not engage (safety feature, keeps you from burning up the compressor due to no oil). There is an aluminum canister on the firewall with a large hose leading to the A/C compressor. There is a pressure switch on it with a 2 wire connector: pull the connector off and jumper the wires. The compressor circuit will power up, and the test light will light if the electrical circuit is good. This test is also a good way to check the compressor & clutch if the system is low on refrigerant. You can jumper the wires and the compressor will turn if the clutch is good.
The clutch also has a relay that shuts off when you go to WOT (wide open throttle). It is located on the passenger side inner fender well. The close proximity of the relay to the headers can cause the insulation on the wiring and the relay socket to deteriorate. The relay can become non functional when this happens.
Caution: replacing the A/C compressor seal requires removing the R12 refrigerant. By law you are supposed to recover it and not dump it to open air. I will leave that up to you...
The A/C compressor seal is less than $12. See AutoZone Santech A/C Compressor Shaft Seal Kit MT2039. You will need a pair of internal snap ring pliers to remove and install the seal snap rin
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.
Ignition switch wiring
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
HVAC vacuum diagram
TFI module differences & pinout
Fuse box layout
The A/C clutch is about $100 new or you can buy a compressor from the junkyard with a working clutch for about $50. The puller is about $16 if you have to buy one, Autozone will rent you one for free.
The clutch hub is usually what fails, the rubber shock damper shears off from the steel hub and plate. The pulley turns, but the hub doesn't when you power up the A/C.
www.rockauto.com Ford MOTORCRAFT Part # YB289A $39.00
The hub comes off without much problem if you have the puller. You don’t have to do anything with the refrigerant (R12 or R134a), you can replace the clutch without draining and refilling the system. The snap ring hiding inside the hub is the only tricky part.
Remove the nut; remove the snap ring (if present) and then remove the washer. Loosen the puller tool center bolt so that you can get the larger threaded section of the puller screwed into the clutch hub. Tighten up the center bolt on the puller and the clutch hub will come off.
Clutch hub puller tool
Part Number: 27002
Alternate Part Number: 59509
AutoZone and most other major auto parts chain stores will rent or loan the puller. Cost is $21.00 if they don’t have one to loan.
A few simple electrical tests are advised before popping out the wallet to buy a clutch assembly. With the engine running, use a test light connected to the 2 wires on the A/C clutch harness to make sure you have voltage when you turn the A/C on. If the system is low on refrigerant, the clutch will not engage (safety feature, keeps you from burning up the compressor due to no oil). There is an aluminum canister on the firewall with a large hose leading to the A/C compressor. There is a pressure switch on it with a 2 wire connector: pull the connector off and jumper the wires. The compressor circuit will power up, and the test light will light if the electrical circuit is good. This test is also a good way to check the compressor & clutch if the system is low on refrigerant. You can jumper the wires and the compressor will turn if the clutch is good.
The clutch also has a relay that shuts off when you go to WOT (wide open throttle). It is located on the passenger side inner fender well. The close proximity of the relay to the headers can cause the insulation on the wiring and the relay socket to deteriorate. The relay can become non functional when this happens.
Caution: replacing the A/C compressor seal requires removing the R12 refrigerant. By law you are supposed to recover it and not dump it to open air. I will leave that up to you...
The A/C compressor seal is less than $12. See AutoZone Santech A/C Compressor Shaft Seal Kit MT2039. You will need a pair of internal snap ring pliers to remove and install the seal snap rin
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.
Ignition switch wiring
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
HVAC vacuum diagram
TFI module differences & pinout
Fuse box layout
Okay. Finished for 2020
AC compressor semi finished. Parcel from Rockauto not delivered (clutch bearing). Clutch hub went out easy-peasy as I used some penetrating fluid. Little vibration from side and it amlost fel to the floor. Bearing is bad, as I assumed.
@jrichker by clutch hub 'rubber shock damper', You mean the front face middle ring (see first picture)? It is cracked (surface cracks I hope) so I gave it a silicone spray soak to recondition itself.
I see no other rubber parts or they were chewed...
Clutch coil has 3.5ohm and should be okay. Must reinstall to test.
For rusted dirty clutch, I didn't have balls to sandblast, so I gave parts just a heavy cleaning and a rough wire brushing with Hammerite coating to look 'okay'. Few pics attached.
AC question:
How safe is it to connect everything and try to vacuum/charge in order to see if it will work?
(Dont want to spend money for orifice and dryer to find that I have condenser or compressor core leak)
SMOG pump. That POS was disassembled twice. I cleaned it but it now makes 'grinding' sound when I turn it by hand. Just does not want to stay quiet whatever I do. Lubed all bearings with white grease. Pumps air, no resistance on pulley, but You can clearly hear thoose 2 wings grinding body making unpleasant sound.
SMOG question:
This is okay and should go away after few (hundred) miles or shall I take it apart and clean for 3rd time?
Thermactor tube clean and painted. Passanger side channel was clogged heavily first 3-4 inches, like brick. I used wood screws to brake that stone out. Drivers side was okay. Cleaned both with brake cleaner and 25 inch pipe cleaning brush.
THERMACTOR tube questions:
Shall I run car for few minutes without tubes to additionally blow out stuff?
Does that thermactor tube behind engine need seals? (I have no seals but I can use thin layer of black RTV)
Pictures attached. Both units were fine sandblasted, rubber polished and today manually polished with dremel dry cloth brush if anyone interested why they are shiny
Thanks in advance for the answers above!
Have a good time today, and happy New year guys with no repairs and a lots of miles!!!
AC compressor semi finished. Parcel from Rockauto not delivered (clutch bearing). Clutch hub went out easy-peasy as I used some penetrating fluid. Little vibration from side and it amlost fel to the floor. Bearing is bad, as I assumed.
@jrichker by clutch hub 'rubber shock damper', You mean the front face middle ring (see first picture)? It is cracked (surface cracks I hope) so I gave it a silicone spray soak to recondition itself.
I see no other rubber parts or they were chewed...
Clutch coil has 3.5ohm and should be okay. Must reinstall to test.
For rusted dirty clutch, I didn't have balls to sandblast, so I gave parts just a heavy cleaning and a rough wire brushing with Hammerite coating to look 'okay'. Few pics attached.
AC question:
How safe is it to connect everything and try to vacuum/charge in order to see if it will work?
(Dont want to spend money for orifice and dryer to find that I have condenser or compressor core leak)
SMOG pump. That POS was disassembled twice. I cleaned it but it now makes 'grinding' sound when I turn it by hand. Just does not want to stay quiet whatever I do. Lubed all bearings with white grease. Pumps air, no resistance on pulley, but You can clearly hear thoose 2 wings grinding body making unpleasant sound.
SMOG question:
This is okay and should go away after few (hundred) miles or shall I take it apart and clean for 3rd time?
Thermactor tube clean and painted. Passanger side channel was clogged heavily first 3-4 inches, like brick. I used wood screws to brake that stone out. Drivers side was okay. Cleaned both with brake cleaner and 25 inch pipe cleaning brush.
THERMACTOR tube questions:
Shall I run car for few minutes without tubes to additionally blow out stuff?
Does that thermactor tube behind engine need seals? (I have no seals but I can use thin layer of black RTV)
Pictures attached. Both units were fine sandblasted, rubber polished and today manually polished with dremel dry cloth brush if anyone interested why they are shiny
Thanks in advance for the answers above!
Have a good time today, and happy New year guys with no repairs and a lots of miles!!!
Those little surface cracks in the rubber are normal. It's just the top layer or old paint.
It is safe to pull a vacuum on the system without the compressor on the vehicle. I sometimes will pressurize an AC system with air to find leaks with soapy water. I have an attachment I made out of the hose and connector from a refill r134a can. My mustang has been converted from r12 to r134a. I only use about 50psi. pressure. Air containes moisture so the system should be vacuumed down to 30in.hg for about 30 minutes to boil off moisture.
It's easier to find the leak with pressure than vacuum.
These air pumps were notorious for making slight noises. Without hearing it myself it would be hard to determine whether its an issue or not.
Very nice project. You are treating your car very well. Nice work. If you keep going this way it will be better than new.
It is safe to pull a vacuum on the system without the compressor on the vehicle. I sometimes will pressurize an AC system with air to find leaks with soapy water. I have an attachment I made out of the hose and connector from a refill r134a can. My mustang has been converted from r12 to r134a. I only use about 50psi. pressure. Air containes moisture so the system should be vacuumed down to 30in.hg for about 30 minutes to boil off moisture.
It's easier to find the leak with pressure than vacuum.
These air pumps were notorious for making slight noises. Without hearing it myself it would be hard to determine whether its an issue or not.
Very nice project. You are treating your car very well. Nice work. If you keep going this way it will be better than new.
@90sickfox thank You.
Regarding A/C, sorry I was not clear enough:
I would close system (compressor, old dryer), install new green seals and try to vacuum/charge in order to check for few months if it is working/leaking?
For leaks and flush, AC shop will do it. I can tell them to vacuum it for few hours as I dont know dryer history....
Just that thing ringing in my head 'You need to change dryer as soon as You open system' everywhere worries me.
Airpump, I will try. Like on 5:19 -
View: https://youtu.be/8E3-zeLbTII
and did not quite down when bolted back.
Guess the answer is - shorter belt in back seat and roll...
Regarding A/C, sorry I was not clear enough:
I would close system (compressor, old dryer), install new green seals and try to vacuum/charge in order to check for few months if it is working/leaking?
For leaks and flush, AC shop will do it. I can tell them to vacuum it for few hours as I dont know dryer history....
Just that thing ringing in my head 'You need to change dryer as soon as You open system' everywhere worries me.
Airpump, I will try. Like on 5:19 -
and did not quite down when bolted back.
Guess the answer is - shorter belt in back seat and roll...
Nobody told me about this, lol (someone probably did in my thread and I missed it). For some reason I thought you had to run/dump codes differently on 88 Mustangs.
Happy New Year!!!
Thermactor system restored. Pictures attached.
Pump 'fixed' (I hope).
To be installed and tested.
I cleaned big passages in heads very good. Cant reach smaller ones without removing exhaust manifolds and dont want to do that now...
Thermactor tube surfaces are polished with no or very little material removal. I am not sure if I should use very thin layer of black RTV or gaskets from Felpro 260-1445 set or none of mentioned... When I removed them it was bare metal-to-metal contact.
For next works I ordered (following recommendations from forum):
- Liqui Molly Top Tec ATF 1200 for AOD (12litres, complete change)
- Motorcraft 75W-140 rear axle lubricant plus Motorcraft XL3 LSD friction modifier
Edit (forgot):
- Motul DOT 3&4 brake liquid 2 litres (planning change of all three rubbee hoses front left, right + rear so complete flush)
Thermactor system restored. Pictures attached.
Pump 'fixed' (I hope).
To be installed and tested.
I cleaned big passages in heads very good. Cant reach smaller ones without removing exhaust manifolds and dont want to do that now...
Thermactor tube surfaces are polished with no or very little material removal. I am not sure if I should use very thin layer of black RTV or gaskets from Felpro 260-1445 set or none of mentioned... When I removed them it was bare metal-to-metal contact.
For next works I ordered (following recommendations from forum):
- Liqui Molly Top Tec ATF 1200 for AOD (12litres, complete change)
- Motorcraft 75W-140 rear axle lubricant plus Motorcraft XL3 LSD friction modifier
Edit (forgot):
- Motul DOT 3&4 brake liquid 2 litres (planning change of all three rubbee hoses front left, right + rear so complete flush)
Update:
Thermactor tube mounted with gaskets. Assembled complete smog system back. AC clutch bearing changed. Turn the engine on.... Smog pump is audible, clearly and I hope it will settle with some miles... :-(
For the first time KOEO = 11, KOER = 11
Fluids arrived, ready to flush brakes, AOD and rear axle. Got some quality fluids from Germany, as close as possible to recommendations from here.
-Liqui Molly Top Tec 1200 ATF for AOD 12l
-Motorcraft 75W-140 + friction modifier for 8.8"
-Motul DOT3&4 for brakes
Thermactor tube mounted with gaskets. Assembled complete smog system back. AC clutch bearing changed. Turn the engine on.... Smog pump is audible, clearly and I hope it will settle with some miles... :-(
For the first time KOEO = 11, KOER = 11
Fluids arrived, ready to flush brakes, AOD and rear axle. Got some quality fluids from Germany, as close as possible to recommendations from here.
-Liqui Molly Top Tec 1200 ATF for AOD 12l
-Motorcraft 75W-140 + friction modifier for 8.8"
-Motul DOT3&4 for brakes
Also, I need help:
On thursday I gave to FOX some test drive in rush (I had trip scheduled).
After making proudly pictures (finally out of the garage, attached) of cleaned engine bay, 20 minutes warmup and codes check I gave it a 1/4 mile spin.
P.S. My ventilation blower box with motor is out of the car with that vacuum hose free, so I knew I could have some issues, but I was not ready for what follows...
I noticed rough shifts with stall first (to R,1 and D also). It was occassionaly rough when Shifting to R since I bough it, but not like this.
Shifting to reverse, engine dies. Soft acceleration was fine. On way back I pushed the throttle hard and...wooow... no power. Opened the hood and saw recognizable smoke - PCV was blown out. Okay that is maybe, simple, my fault - received tad smaller PCV grommet from rockauto and put to thin loctite teflon layer (so maybe it was still loose). Put it back on, tried to drive...
The car from that point is jerking, and in R so nas that a whole car was shaking. When shifted to 1 on one ocassion there was a second or two grind sound. This make me literally crap myself and reversed to garage with bad shaking.
Now this may also be my fault: I received slightly bigger plastic bushing for TV cable which I grinded with dremel to tight fit to throttle lever. It is secure, but before that TV cable was fixed and secured with zip-tie, no strange behavior.
Also, I didn't adjust TV cable afterward, just mounted bushing. Position looks same to me.
I am scretching my head since thursday....
Is my AOD toast??? Fluid levels are okay.
Or can these jerking and stalling be a misfortunate combination of bushing change and PCV vacuum leak?
I can check tomorrow, just returned from trip. But looking for Your suggestions in between...
First I plan to seal that PCV grommet really tight (weatherstrip tape as it was before new grommet) and maybe return zip-tie solution to TV Cable since as it was last time good-running setup...
Thank You in advance!
On thursday I gave to FOX some test drive in rush (I had trip scheduled).
After making proudly pictures (finally out of the garage, attached) of cleaned engine bay, 20 minutes warmup and codes check I gave it a 1/4 mile spin.
P.S. My ventilation blower box with motor is out of the car with that vacuum hose free, so I knew I could have some issues, but I was not ready for what follows...
I noticed rough shifts with stall first (to R,1 and D also). It was occassionaly rough when Shifting to R since I bough it, but not like this.
Shifting to reverse, engine dies. Soft acceleration was fine. On way back I pushed the throttle hard and...wooow... no power. Opened the hood and saw recognizable smoke - PCV was blown out. Okay that is maybe, simple, my fault - received tad smaller PCV grommet from rockauto and put to thin loctite teflon layer (so maybe it was still loose). Put it back on, tried to drive...
The car from that point is jerking, and in R so nas that a whole car was shaking. When shifted to 1 on one ocassion there was a second or two grind sound. This make me literally crap myself and reversed to garage with bad shaking.
Now this may also be my fault: I received slightly bigger plastic bushing for TV cable which I grinded with dremel to tight fit to throttle lever. It is secure, but before that TV cable was fixed and secured with zip-tie, no strange behavior.
Also, I didn't adjust TV cable afterward, just mounted bushing. Position looks same to me.
I am scretching my head since thursday....
Is my AOD toast??? Fluid levels are okay.
Or can these jerking and stalling be a misfortunate combination of bushing change and PCV vacuum leak?
I can check tomorrow, just returned from trip. But looking for Your suggestions in between...
First I plan to seal that PCV grommet really tight (weatherstrip tape as it was before new grommet) and maybe return zip-tie solution to TV Cable since as it was last time good-running setup...
Thank You in advance!
That was close call...
Again, a vacuum (~12) problem returned I belive... :-(
Shuddering present at low rpm, shifting to 1/D/OD/R stalls engine only if I dont touch throttle was caused by vacuum leak. Where? To be investigated (lower intake new gaskets, new silicone vacuum hoses).
Warmed up in P, AOD fluid is very low and clean - no burning smell. To be flushed ASAP.
After 15 miles of driving, not so noticable (neither vacuum nor shudder). Car runs fine if You keep rpm higher.
Cleaned and desinfected ventilation system (with foam spray) in between investigating problem and test drive
Again, a vacuum (~12) problem returned I belive... :-(
Shuddering present at low rpm, shifting to 1/D/OD/R stalls engine only if I dont touch throttle was caused by vacuum leak. Where? To be investigated (lower intake new gaskets, new silicone vacuum hoses).
Warmed up in P, AOD fluid is very low and clean - no burning smell. To be flushed ASAP.
After 15 miles of driving, not so noticable (neither vacuum nor shudder). Car runs fine if You keep rpm higher.
Cleaned and desinfected ventilation system (with foam spray) in between investigating problem and test drive